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Discussion Starter #1
First off there are many posts already detailing filling mounts in general and removing the stock torque mount off this vehicle so I have skipped that to simply focus on a filled mount. I filled the mount with the Loctite Roofing Polyurethane. From what I have read on the YouTube video, this is rated at about 40a. The key thing to remember though is that a majority of increase in stiffness in this case is coming from making the mount "solid". I am also looking to make an improvement with the least amount of increase in NVH.
Tape off one side around the holes of the mount and fill. Finished product will look something like pictures. I have a space heater on it now to help speed up the curing time a little before reinstall tomorrow morning. Temp on the mount facing the heater according to my temp gun is about is about 85, so I am not baking it. Will leave it on one side for couple hours before flipping to other side rotating like this until later this evening.
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The other thing to remember is that this is being done on a hybrid so my increase in NVH, and performance, will probably be different than other models. That said it should hopefully eliminate some of the slop under heavier throttle applications when you can feel the engine moving. The hybrid uses the same mount as the 2.0t auto.
 

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That's something I thought about too, but I tend to wonder if the structural rigidity is distributed with the whole piece. If you look at the stock 2.0T 6-speed mount, the whole frame of the mount is metal (steel) instead of plastic.

518817
 

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Interesting... This should provide more rigidity to the mount. I'm interested to see if there are any issues with your new-found rigidity that are unintended side effects.
 

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for those who don't want to go the DIY route, the part you're looking for is 50880-TVC-A21 - this is the factory 2.0T manual upper mount and it's a straight drop in

btw if for some reason you get carried away with the bolts... part number 90165-TVA-A01 - hand tighten to make sure they don't cross-thread then use a torque wrench set to 52 ft-lbs - btw these bolts are not torque to yield so when you hear the click stop right there ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
That's something I thought about too, but I tend to wonder if the structural rigidity is distributed with the whole piece. If you look at the stock 2.0T 6-speed mount, the whole frame of the mount is metal (steel) instead of plastic.
The difference between a metal casing and a composite one should be negligible. It's not like the composite is flexing under load. If you are tracking the car I would say go with metal but otherwise the main improvement is coming from the "solid" part.
for those who don't want to go the DIY route, the part you're looking for is 50880-TVC-A21 - this is the factory 2.0T manual upper mount and it's a straight drop in

btw if for some reason you get carried away with the bolts... part number 90165-TVA-A01 - hand tighten to make sure they don't cross-thread then use a torque wrench set to 52 ft-lbs - btw these bolts are not torque to yield so when you hear the click stop right there ;)
That's actually been according to a website is a discontinued part now. You want the part ending in A31.
Thanks for the tip on the bolts.
So 22hrs later, 12 of it with a heart source on it it's still tacky meaning it's not fully dry yet. This is why I was looking for a spare but oh well.
 

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Ah, good catch on that part being discontinued... got a buddy that modded his 1.5T and that was the part he used to firm things up, good to know.

As for the TTY thing... he learned by burn ;)
 

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Is the original part metal or plastic? (I thought on the 2.0T it was metal - or is that the 6 speed?).

I've been thinking of removing the 1.5T torque mount and filling its voids with epoxy. Letting it cure 24+ hours and re-installing. (This is a low list item).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is the original part metal or plastic? (I thought on the 2.0T it was metal - or is that the 6 speed?).

I've been thinking of removing the 1.5T torque mount and filling its voids with epoxy. Letting it cure 24+ hours and re-installing. (This is a low list item).
The original part is plastic. Correct the mt car uses a metal one, but maybe they switched them all to metal now since the part number is dc. Based on this you will let to need it sit about 48 hrs at least with full cure time about one week. 24 hrs in and some is still tacky. I have the heater on it again now around 120 deg on surface of mount now facing the heater, so a summer day here in my garage lol.
 

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@Vegashybrid Thx.

My preferred poison for this will be epoxy so cure time should be quicker. Epoxy also sets faster when heated. I'm concerned epoxy might be too brittle, but a friend stocks aerospace and industrial repair epoxies so he may have a formulation that is supple (?) enough. (Maybe made of unafordium however).

Once I hear how your mod goes I might switch to the polyurethane.

Did you think of putting it in the oven for more even heat?
(Note: wives have gone to prison for murder for less. Just saying).
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I don't see why you couldn't use some jb weld or something like that. Would be harder to fill the mounts with def since you can't just squirt it in with a caulk gun. I did not think about putting it in the oven because I thought it would at least be dry by today. I have increased the temp up to 140-120 on the epoxy surface now and my now 4hr timer just went off as I'm typing so going to go switch sides now.
Update: upper casing is about 100 deg, inner metal is at 140 deg, side opposite heater was about 100deg on epoxy It's actually heating fairly evenly right now. It's also raining here since last night so that isn't helping. Plus I'm going to make fresh lasagna soon oven is out lol.
Update 2: two hours in put additional space heater on other side as it's starting to pour here soon and the temp is dropping. Temp about 120 deg over the entire top portion of the mount, varying from 150 to 110 in different portions.
 

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...I tend to wonder if the structural rigidity is distributed with the whole piece. If you look at the stock 2.0T 6-speed mount, the whole frame of the mount is metal (steel) instead of plastic.

518829
I just reread your post. I'd want to add something pretty stiff curing in the voids circled above.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So we have a jelly doughnut situation in my engine bay lol. I had my concerns about this in the first place so not that big of a surprise. I found a used 1.5t mount for $15 which I will order later just to install for a week while I let my stock one fully cure. To be continued in about 10 days.
 

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I've located the epoxy to do this, I'll get it for "free" if paying for someone's beer at a pub is "free".

Hmm, I wonder if a junk yard near here has a scrapped 2L manual ...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've located the epoxy to do this, I'll get it for "free" if paying for someone's beer at a pub is "free".

Hmm, I wonder if a junk yard near here has a scrapped 2L manual ...
Ah has a few, $40 use. I will send you my 1.5t mount once I'm done if you want.
 

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Yes but the improvement is coming from the mount insert portion not the surrounding material. I find it hard to believe the composite is flexing under load unless you upgraded to a big turbo.
Well according to people who have installed the metal manual transmission upper torque mount, they have said it makes a difference with the engine twisting. Based on that, I would tend to believe the metal frame does affect the structural rigidity of it. I'm not saying filling up the inner rubber/polyurethane portion that connects the mount frame to the cylinder piece that the bolt goes through wouldn't help, just that I believe the metal frame does make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Well according to people who have installed the metal manual transmission upper torque mount, they have said it makes a difference with the engine twisting. Based on that, I would tend to believe the metal frame does affect the structural rigidity of it. I'm not saying filling up the inner rubber/polyurethane portion that connects the mount frame to the cylinder piece that the bolt goes through wouldn't help, just that I believe the metal frame does make a difference.
If that's the case why aren't people with 2.0t auto "upgrading"? Did you test the hardness of the three different mounts on a durometer to determine hardness for what the other 50%of the mount is made from? Did you test the difference in stiffness between the composite and the metal? The person that I know of that put the metal one on the AT said it did nothing. Also have you seen pics of the metal vs composite? Half of the center is missing on the metal mount.
Let me clarify as I was being cautious on my words with the troll afoot. The outer plastic composite portion of the mount is not flexing in a noticable amount period. It's not designed for that. It is a rigid material. If it flexes too much it will snap just like metalr. If the Hasport mount was made of composite it would perform the exact same way. You can make a composite just as rigid as metal and again, if you are approaching the stress limits of this mount in a way that the outer composite or metal is flexing, that car is making serious power. The biggest difference is the composite won't rust.
You make mounts stiffer by one of two ways: increasing the hardness of the mount, or changing from an open mount to a solid one, even keeping the same hardness as the open one. The largest change comes from switching to a solid, and in many cases, non liquid filled mount. Here is a good article for you to read.


Edit: Also as stated above the metal part number according to one website (A21) has been discontinued so not sure if they are going to keep making two different parts anymore or what the deal is there. May have to wait a little until current stock is depleted to find out.
 

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Yes but the improvement is coming from the mount insert portion not the surrounding material. I find it hard to believe the composite is flexing under load unless you upgraded to a big turbo.
Okay, contact me when you're done and we'll sort it out. Shipping from US to here (Montreal) might prove to be a hassle and expensive however. I don't mind paying for it of course, but within reason. Or maybe have it shipped to Plattsburgh, NY. I want to go buy the side mouldings there. Price here is ridiculous with ludicrous sauce and taxes.

(CAD$295 + tax, or $350 + tax installed). In the US: US$162 + (lower) taxes.
 

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What's the point of doing this?
 
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