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If that's the case why aren't people with 2.0t auto "upgrading"? Did you test the hardness of the three different mounts on a durometer to determine hardness for what the other 50%of the mount is made from? Did you test the difference in stiffness between the composite and the metal? The person that I know of that put the metal one on the AT said it did nothing. Also have you seen pics of the metal vs composite? Half of the center is missing on the metal mount.
Let me clarify as I was being cautious on my words with the troll afoot. The outer plastic composite portion of the mount is not flexing in a noticable amount period. It's not designed for that. It is a rigid material. If it flexes too much it will snap just like metalr. If the Hasport mount was made of composite it would perform the exact same way. You can make a composite just as rigid as metal and again, if you are approaching the stress limits of this mount in a way that the outer composite or metal is flexing, that car is making serious power. The biggest difference is the composite won't rust.
You make mounts stiffer by one of two ways: increasing the hardness of the mount, or changing from an open mount to a solid one, even keeping the same hardness as the open one. The largest change comes from switching to a solid, and in many cases, non liquid filled mount. Here is a good article for you to read.


Edit: Also as stated above the metal part number according to one website (A21) has been discontinued so not sure if they are going to keep making two different parts anymore or what the deal is there. May have to wait a little until current stock is depleted to find out.
Look I'm not trying to be pushy argumentative here and I can't disagree that there should be more science involved than "feel". I'm not at all saying that filling the open areas of the mount with polyurethane won't help. I just feel (or hope) that other fellow AccordX enthusiasts who have tried the metal framed mount and said that it has made a difference aren't throwing out smoke and mirrors. It is interesting that Honda discontinued the metal one, but that makes me wonder if that's more of cost cutting or supply chain reason than anything else. I do look forward to see if the polyurethane fill will make a difference though for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Okay, contact me when you're done and we'll sort it out. Shipping from US to here (Montreal) might prove to be a hassle and expensive however. I don't mind paying for it of course, but within reason. Or maybe have it shipped to Plattsburgh, NY. I want to go buy the side mouldings there. Price here is ridiculous with ludicrous sauce and taxes.

(CAD$295 + tax, or $350 + tax installed). In the US: US$162 + (lower) taxes.
Cool I'll check it out it may only be about$15 USD to ship it up there if I use USPS, but it will take a couple weeks to get there. It may cost you about the same to find one from a wrecker already up North, but more than happy to ship it once I'm done. Should have the used one shortly.
Do you have experience with epoxy and making moulds ect?
 

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Window weld seal works also. I know for a fact that it resolved my civic 3rd gear crunch/hard shifts. Caused some more vibration but not excessive. I added to the front trans mount; no others’.
I will also add that if you plan on doing this. Make sure to give yourself a day or 2 for cure time. If put back too soon without curing, you will be doing over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Window weld seal works also. I know for a fact that it resolved my civic 3rd gear crunch/hard shifts. Caused some more vibration but not excessive. I added to the front trans mount; no others’.
I will also add that if you plan on doing this. Make sure to give yourself a day or 2 for cure time. If put back too soon without curing, you will be doing over again.
Based on the video in the other threads, 3m window seal is much firmer so I went this way. You are going to need longer than two days for curing, a week is more appropriate. Taking the mount out yesterday to swap the used one in some of the remaining polyurethane was still tacky surprisingly.
 

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Depends how much you are filling in but @Vegashybrid you’re correct. I put mine by a heater and fan which sped up the process some.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update: Six days in there are some parts on the surface that are still tacky, even with the mount being inside my house the whole time, not in the colder garage. I have put it in front of the heater for the day. Based on this I will probably wait a total 10 days to cure jic, or Sunday for a reinstall.
The 1.5t mount is noticably softer. It makes for a smoother drive, but the lag under heavy acceleration is worse than the stock mount. There is also a noticeable weight difference between the two which is will weigh once swapping. This is not surprising considering the fact it's stiffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Results:
Spectacular. Exactly how the car should come. Throttle response is greatly improved with almost no extra vibrations. Heavy throttle inputs are way smoother with much less lag before acceleration. Makes modulating the throttle easier coming out of a fast turn.
The added vibrations are extremely minimal, to the point they wouldn't be noticed unless you were comparing before and after. In the hybrid it's only really noticable when the engine comes on heavily like it does in the morning, or when it's warming back up. On the flip side the 1.5t mount had almost gotten rid of all the engine vibrations, to the point you could hardly tell when the engine was running. Unfortunately I was unable to weigh them because my one scale was too small and the other too big lol.
Based on this and how the mount attaches to the engine, if I were to do it again, I would I would actually go with a stiffer material than the Loctite, and something more like Polytek 60a that is pourable vs the adhesive(especially if you are starting with a softer1.5t mount). I still notice some damp looking tacky adhesive on the surface that keeps appearing after being wiped off, which I think is some of the adhesive curing off still. I also had an air bubble when filling the second time with the caulking gun. Polytek would probably eliminate these issues and be easier to work with. That said if your looking for the cheapest easiest way to do this, the Loctite is the way to go.
So if starting with a 1.5t mount, would at least go with a 60a material or stiffer. The 3M window seal dries to 80a would probably be the best for doing the 1.5t mount on the cheap.


Sadly my fuel economy greatly decreased today which is definitive proof that the mount directly relates to mpg. CHEERS!?
 
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