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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently my accord has developed a clunk coming from the front passenger side when going over bumps, and when I looked at the shocks that one was clearly leaking (wet). I asked a few shops for quotes on the cost to replace the 2 front struts (since you can't just do one), and the prices were generally in the $600 range using OEM honda shocks (and re-using the old springs). So my question is, if I bought the strut assemblies (springs + shocks), would this job be something that's doable DIY, or is it pretty difficult and best left to a shop? I tried to search for instructions but couldn't find many threads on it.

Also, is an alignment needed after replacement of struts?
 

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From Honda....How to install HFP suspension on 7th Gen coupe. Only YOU can decide if you are up to the task.

View attachment how to install HFP suspension.pdf

Also, search on this forum. I believe member "DreaminAccord" (Ben) has a "How To" with pics.

Lastly, search the YouTubes for "Eric the Car Guy". I believe he had a detailed video of this.
 

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It is definitely way easier if you buy the whole assembly. If you get just the struts, you'll need to compress the springs first to get the old strut out, this is quite frankly, extremely dangerous without a proper full size spring press. If you rent the ones from say AutoZone, they are extremely dangerous to use, provided that they don't slip with the spring explode out in front of your face.

If you buy the whole assembly, you still need a second person to help you. When you unbolt the 5 bolts on top, someone will need to stand on the rotor to relieve the tension off the spring to take out the whole assembly. Or you need to use a massive pry bar if you are doing it yourself. Then you maneuver the whole assembly out.

I recommend soaking all relevant bolts a week prior to you starting the job. I did this and it was way easier. When you go re-tighten all the bolts, make them tighter than the specified torque specifications because of rust. I would say 5 lb-ft more.
 

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It is definitely way easier if you buy the whole assembly.
Absolutely true.

If you get just the struts, you'll need to compress the springs first to get the old strut out,
True.

... this is quite frankly, extremely dangerous without a proper full size spring press. If you rent the ones from say AutoZone, they are extremely dangerous to use, provided that they don't slip with the spring explode out in front of your face.
This is frankly BS. You can use the spring compressor from Auto Zone just fine. They will not slip if you set them up properly and even if they do, the spring will not hurt you unless you literally have your face in front of it. Is a full size spring press the absolute safest way to do the job? Yes. However spring compressors are absolutely fine and safe, provided you use a modicum of common sense.
 

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OP, this isnt a terribly complex job. Get a good jack and jackstands and the proper tools before hand and its pretty straightforward.
 

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Side question: Do the actual springs themselves wear down over time? Are the complete assemblies sold more for convenience, or because springs wear out the same time as struts do?
 

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convenience basically, but the spring can loose some height. do a measurement from like the lower control arm. if equal your fine unless you see a different distance between coils. not sure if the oems have a 2 stage type spring. one end has closer spaced coils at one end.
 

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honestly id get the loaded struts unless there's a big difference in price for just struts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
honestly id get the loaded struts unless there's a big difference in price for just struts.
The price is about $110-120 each for just the struts, and about 150-170 for the complete assemblies. So not a huge difference. If I was to do it myself I'd definitely be getting the complete assemblies.

Maybe I should talk to my mechanic and see if he'll give me a discount on labor if I bring the complete assemblies...

On a side note, are leaking struts a common cause of a "clunking" noise over dips in the road? The passenger side strut looks wet, indicating the strut is leaking. I pushed down on the left and right front side, and the right (passenger side) definitely bounces more than the left, which basically goes down and right back up as it should. The car's alignment seems good and it doesn't pull to one side on the highway. However, after some searching, most people mention bushings or end-links as causes of clunking over bumps and dips, not struts. It's not going to be a super cheap repair regardless of who ends up doing it, so I just want to do my best to rule out other causes of the clunking noise.
 

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the bearing on top of the struts can make noise if they are bad. just a thought. maybe a good idea to check them before you start the repair. raise the car and grab the top of the spring. give it a good tug/shake. feel for movement.
 

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lol they are probably included. never actually replaced a strut myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the bearing on top of the struts can make noise if they are bad. just a thought. maybe a good idea to check them before you start the repair. raise the car and grab the top of the spring. give it a good tug/shake. feel for movement.
I'll give it a look tomorrow. I mean I'm going to replace the struts sometime within the next few months anyway, but I just want to investigate all other possible causes of the clunking now so that all the parts can be replaced in one go instead of having to do multiple jobs.
 

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remember to get her aligned after the work. hears a great tip. goto Firestone, and get there lifetime front end alignment. its like $175, but you can have it checked if you go threw a bad chuck hole, new tires, suspension work, and like i do at the beginning of each season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
remember to get her aligned after the work. hears a great tip. goto Firestone, and get there lifetime front end alignment. its like $175, but you can have it checked if you go threw a bad chuck hole, new tires, suspension work, and like i do at the beginning of each season.
I was actually wondering if an alignment would be needed. One of the mechanics I talked to said it was not necessary after a strut replacement unless the car shows symptoms of bad alignment like abnormal tire wear or pulling to one side on the freeway. According to him, Accords and many other Hondas are designed so that only the toe is readily adjustable, and other things are not adjustable. For example, camber can only be adjusted by using camber kits which are not part of the factory suspension. Not sure whether his reasoning is correct or not though...
 

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hmmmm

that could be, but the bolts that go threw the shock towers are used for camber adjustment if im not misstaken. ill talk to a friend about this. he does our work on the buses at work. hes never led me wrong before.
 

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perfect time to put on lowering springs such as Tein Stech, that way you wont have 4ft of wheel gap as in OEM :p (unless you want it stock height)

I have a set with new rear shocks and stock fronts, with top hats all assembled if you're interested but im in upstate NY so shipping might be high. $200 + shipping fyi
 

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Complete BS? So you don't believe me? Watch this video and scroll forward to 22 minutes/38 seconds. Spring explosion due to cheap spring compressor tool. So he ended up going to his friend's auto shop to use a full size spring compressor.

 

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Complete BS? So you don't believe me? Watch this video and scroll forward to 22 minutes/38 seconds. Spring explosion due to cheap spring compressor tool. So he ended up going to his friend's auto shop to use a full size spring compressor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpSIv3mk98k
Lol. :lmao:

Did he die?

Did he lose a limb?

Was he traumatized?

No.

Any tool can fail. With your logic then no one should use floor jacks instead of a profesional lift or ratchets instead of an impact wrench, etc. etc. Sure a prfesional spring compressor is ideal. But its not practical or cost effective for a DIYer to get one or pay to huse one. The strut assemblies on most passenger cars are fine to tackle with the 'Autozone' spring compressor.

Agian, use a modicum of common sense and you will be fine in case of failure.

So yes, in sum, complete BS to pearl clutch and tell the OP not to use a spring compressor.
 

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Double LOL!

I just watched the video - as I couldnt watch it at work and I cant believe you posted that as your 'evidence'.

First off, youre not supposed to use an impact on manual spring compressors

Second, dont have it at face level

Third, the ones at Autozone have the locking bars for safety unlike this crap that ETCG was using.

I like Eric, but this was a pointless video (in relation to the safety of spring compressors).
 

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You can add in another LOL! from me.

Wow, he used air impact on a MANUAL spring compressor?!?!?! Is he drunk? When I swapped my struts, I used a manual spring compressor just fine. Little elbow grease wont hurt anyone :D. I'm not dumb enough to use air impact for that. That tension is released too quickly with an air impact. You need to slowly losing it up. Think of it like opening a soda bottle that was shaken. You need to slowly release pressure so that it doesn't explode on you.
 
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