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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2015 Accord EXL with Premium 7 SPKR audio SOLVED. Optimized

Stock sound is missing depth, i like when the beat drops and my seat vibrates or feel it in my chest. this was my objective and achieved it efficiently while maintaining ANC and factory AMP.

Music has depth, volume is unbearable at 20, my seat and floorboards shake - with aftermarket speakers driven by Stock Amplifier




Skip down for the setup: i have a need to stand on my soapbox for a minute:

A. that developer menu hack didn't do anything at all

B. If you don't want to do any work but you listen on spotify: remove the volume leveler feature within the app and things will improve. Additional second party Equalizer Apps just make it sound dirty but there are several available with bass boost if you don't mind sacrificing clarity. Best option i found was to leverage the frequency distribution, available speaker configuration, and the stock H/U equalizer controls to add some balance. The stock amplifier has frequency crossover capability built into it. combine that with the knowledge that there are only WOOFERS in the rear deck and you can achieve something tolerable by fading sound from the front to the rear (about 1/4 from left to right on the EQ bar), CRANK the bass, and drop the Highs and it will almost sound reasonable.

C. Optimized: Stock speakers go "Pah" while aftermarket go "BOING"
I once read a book where the author used to rush to be the first one to school after it snowed because when it was deep - he found that if he walked a squiggly line, EVERYONE ELSE would follow in his footsteps for fear of getting snow in their boots and by the end of the day it would be hilarious to see what he had done. I wonder who was the first to just YANK the amplifier without testing it's capability. it seems like everyone followed and there is this cult following on this site (which is extremely helpful most times btw) of people just pulling the amp without thinking. anyway...i didn't want to loose ANC or deal with running cables and making connectors bla bla bla - i'm building a house and just bought this car but had to stop after owning it for a month to fix the sound because it's pathetic.

I'm a 35 y/o system architecture engineer (of a complex system of systems) in the defense sector. I suppose i've always been a little OCD, perfectionist about music - emphasis on QUALITY, fullness and depth. I like to FEEL it - and after i finished updating i could feel it in my seat and my feet and I'm happy. I only say this to try to build trust - so maybe you give this a try before pulling out your amp.



SETUP *************************

C. OPTIMIZED: This applies to the 7 speaker system, i can't speak for any other config: Replace speakers including Subwoofer with QUALITY aftermarket

The front speakers are already full component speakers, there isn't a dedicated crossover but the Amplifier performs this function perfectly, i don't have frequency data but it sounds like all midrange (without damaging lows) to the woofer while crystal clear highs to the tweeters. The factory tweeters are substantial and i almost didn't splice in aftermarkets but was immediately pleased with the improvement when i did.

get some of these
(Qty 3) Metra 72-7800 Speaker Connector Harnesses (they come in pairs so you'll have one extra but they're great)

(Qty 2) HSB524 Honda Speaker Adapter Kit

Apply Foam Seal tape on both sides of the speaker brackets for a good seal. M-D Building Products 2311 High Density Foam Tape, 1/2-by-3/4-Inch by 10 feet

I got dynamat for the deck but won't be putting it on - it's not necessary

FRONT SPEAKERS: JL Audio C5-650 Evolution 6-3/4" component speaker system: shelf the crossovers, but use the woofer and tweeter in the front door. the sound is delightful. the cage for the woofer is too big for the speaker to fit within the door as the HSB524 aligns it so snap off the tabs, place it in the center and drive the screws into the metal of the door.

Components up front are perfectly balanced with strength and range - the depth of base provided by these speakers alone is nice and is the reason my floorboards vibrate when the beat drops.

REAR SPEAKERS: there's only stock woofers on the back deck; so replace them with COAX speakers for range, I used Infinity Reference 6.5 REF-6552EX and they sound great.

SUBWOOFER: i tried a half dozen 'infinite baffle' speakers and they all suck. I initially dismissed an old 10" Alpine Type E subwoofer (mounted in a sealed box) that i had laying around because maybe i just didn't have a good connection. but i tried it again and it came ALIVE. this speaker is a 250watt RMS 750peak driver. NOT TO MENTION it has a 4 OHM LOAD and a lackluster efficiency. Since the stock 8" sub is 2ohm i've ordered a 2ohm 10" and will just keep it in my old box until i have some time to build a custom box up under the rear deck (to get it out of the way).

Bottom line, driving a 4ohm 10" 250w RMS sub kills - USING THE FACTORY AMP. Recall from Math 101 - that a 4 Ohm load is TWICE the power load as a 2 Ohm load so technically I'm pulling More Load than I should and it's still vibrates the whole car. (in fact, i had the volume at 10 (40 is max) and could hear/feel the base in the third floor of my house).

I tried several 8" subs in an infinite baffle setup but wasn't moved at all by the sound quality:
1. Kicker CWCD84
2. Polk MM 842
3. Infinity 800W
4. Rockford Fosgate RM18D4


Moral of the Story, I don't care what you decide to do, just PLEASE don't underestimate the Factory Amplifier.

windows up it's unbearable at volume 20
windows down, sunroof open - 30
my seat and my feet vibrate at 10

I'm more than happy with the current setup but i know that there is an additional load from the subwoofer that can be shaved off - I've got the Infinity Kappa 1000W 2ohm sub on order and will swap it with my Alpine 4 ohm. I have zero expectation of coming anywhere near peak on this sub but at 90 dB sensitivity and 2 ohms it should be interesting.






Stereo Amplifier Info: lacking specs I called pioneer and they won't give me specs, Honda wasnt' helpful either

Honda PN: 391866-T2A-A01
Pioneer PN: GM-9628zh
Impedance: 4 ohm

OEM Speakers:
6.5" 4 ohm paper cone with rubber surrounds


i can't post wire diagram or honda service manual removal instructions because the forum won't allow it (i'm a noob)
 

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Paddytour
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I have a 10" JL Audio sub in a box. Are you saying I can just hook this up instead of stock sub and it will be an improvement? Id love to try that. Just unplug the oem harness and splice in new wire to my JL box? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes mark! Unplug the crappy oem infinite baffle subwoofer. Use one of the harnesses mentioned above and splice in wire to your sub... Drop it in your trunk and enjoy!

Not sure the impedance of your JL but you'll do better with a 2 ohm.

I just finished mounting the box up to the deck and it sounds so good inside the cabin. I'm running a Kappa 800W but it was designed at 0.6 cubic inches for the 1000W (due in tomorrow).

I don't have plans for the box but will fish the template out of the trash and try to post dims. It's a glove fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
here are the Dims - of the first template and the 'wings'

The bow is the front
the top layer bolts up to the deck and provides "standoff" so the second layer can add volume but clear the magnets of the woofers

i used a 1/4" plywood as a template because it's easy to trim

the Trunk hinges swing back past the brackets a bit, there were some mods i had to make from this i believe

the rest was sort of built on the fly...
built the speaker depth based on your application first - then just add up the volume you have by the surface area of the remaining 'wings' divide target volume by the 2D surface area for the inside
height of the 'wings'. rip pine boards to that height, run them around the perimeter, cap it with 3/4 plywood. glue and screw, drill and countersink & recommend Loctite 3x for a bulletproof seal.

keep your trunk open and verify - don't forget to try to close the trunk to be sure it doesn't interfere - i used two boards to wedge it up on stilts

removed the panel and drilled from the bottom up, cut out the entire subwoofer mounting sheet metal with some shears - bolted it from the top down.

GL
 

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'17 Accord Sport
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Bottom line, driving a 4ohm 10" 250w RMS sub kills - USING THE FACTORY AMP. Recall from Math 101 - that a 4 Ohm load is TWICE the power load as a 2 Ohm load so technically I'm pulling More Load than I should and it's still vibrates the whole car. (in fact, i had the volume at 10 (40 is max) and could hear/feel the base in the third floor of my house).
So, for a layman like me, could you explain why you're planning on running a 2 ohm sub instead of the 4 ohm sub since you say it kills already.


Galaxy S8 - Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Speaker access

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...rd=&dbkey=61T2AD_R001661_enu&country=1&lang=0


A. D. S. - it's still the factory Amp, my enthusiasm is based on relative improvement. It hits nice when the base drops and it's balanced. But it's not a dedicated 1000watt mono Amplifier driving a single subwoofer. So I don't have much left on the table - The load is shared by 7 speakers and if I can get more volume out of the sub by decreasing the load to the sub than I will.
 

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Good info. It's too late for me but maybe someone else will benefit.
 

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'17 Accord Sport
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Speaker access

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...rd=&dbkey=61T2AD_R001661_enu&country=1&lang=0


A. D. S. - it's still the factory Amp, my enthusiasm is based on relative improvement. It hits nice when the base drops and it's balanced. But it's not a dedicated 1000watt mono Amplifier driving a single subwoofer. So I don't have much left on the table - The load is shared by 7 speakers and if I can get more volume out of the sub by decreasing the load to the sub than I will.
Ok so i guess I'll be going for a 2ohm sub as well... So according to what i understand i can hook up a 1000W sub to the existing amp and be happy.

Galaxy S8 - Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for all of the info. Guess I’ll give it a try as I have an alpine type R sub I can throw in till I get time to fully swap out all of my components.
Any way to get the links to work for the panel removal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ADS, In the absence of technical data or a spec sheet I've been doing guess and check subwoofer swaps to walk into a sweet spot. I've tried a few configurations of 8" subs with increasing RMS power draw 200W+ (from Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Polk, Kappa)

The Kappa in there now is 400W RMS /1600W Peak. I like how it performs on the factory amp in a sealed box tuned down to 0.4 cu inches. The 10" Kappa arrived today but I won't get around to installing it maybe until the weekend. It's 450W. Im looking to get to a place where the bass and subwoofer settings on the H/U dont need to be turned up to max to enjoy the bass.

Jump in and try something out. Let us know if you discover a good setup. Failure only means asking a stores return / exchange policy up front. Success = an enjoyable driving experience.

All that being said, Id hold on to the receipt for the 1000W sub and maybe start by aiming a little lower. But hey I'm conservative... What do I know.
 

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There's a post over on the Honda Element forums of a member using an OEM amp for another project that tested his unit: 18W RMS on front and rears, 33W RMS @ 4 ohms/66W RMS @ 2 ohms for the sub channel. Front and rear channels have no processing, sub channel has a very high 800-1k LP filter.

Further on down the post the author goes into the aspects of the balanced differential, if anyone is interested:

Having fun with the OEM amp
 

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Good read. Thanks, Lashlee
 
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