That happened to my 7th gen too. A zip tie did the job for me back then. I don't remember how I did it exactly.
Door Cable Plastic Ends
Not sure where to place this post, so just putting it in the 7th Gen General Area. I had new front speakers installed yesterday. The Tech told me that the plastic end on the door cable was broken on the driver side. He showed it to me and thought he could get it back together so it would still work. It opened and closed fine 4 or 5 times at the shop after the speakers were installed. I had a couple of more errands to do and on stop number two, I couldn't open the door from the inside. I came home and was searching to buy a new cable, then decided to search online to see what others had done and how much the cable would cost.
Came across a guy who simply used electrical heat shrink to secure the broken plastic end as a temporary fix. He did state that the heat shrink he used was NOT the standard 2:1 shrink factor. He used a stronger 4:1 shrink factor so he could easily use a larger diameter size to slide over the bent end of the cable. I found some at an electrical supply store, in 3/8 inch - 1/2 inch. Home Depot only had 2:1. I took my heat shrink back to his shop (I don't have a heat gun) and he took the inside door frame off, slid the shrink on, made sure the broken plastic pieces were touching and hit it with the heat. It secured it perfectly!!!!! Reconnected the cable to the hinge and it was done!!! .86 cents for a six-inch piece of heat shrink (only used about 4 inches maybe) and it was done. How long will it last, I don't know, but it saved me the cost and hassel of installing a new cable. Sorry I didn't get any pictures, he was working really fast as it was the end of the day, and he squeezed me in. Hope this helps someone with a quick fix when they take the inside door frame off.
Came across a guy who simply used electrical heat shrink to secure the broken plastic end as a temporary fix. He did state that the heat shrink he used was NOT the standard 2:1 shrink factor. He used a stronger 4:1 shrink factor so he could easily use a larger diameter size to slide over the bent end of the cable. I found some at an electrical supply store, in 3/8 inch - 1/2 inch. Home Depot only had 2:1. I took my heat shrink back to his shop (I don't have a heat gun) and he took the inside door frame off, slid the shrink on, made sure the broken plastic pieces were touching and hit it with the heat. It secured it perfectly!!!!! Reconnected the cable to the hinge and it was done!!! .86 cents for a six-inch piece of heat shrink (only used about 4 inches maybe) and it was done. How long will it last, I don't know, but it saved me the cost and hassel of installing a new cable. Sorry I didn't get any pictures, he was working really fast as it was the end of the day, and he squeezed me in. Hope this helps someone with a quick fix when they take the inside door frame off.
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Anything to make it work. I've replaced that cable and it is a bch. The rear door is a piece of cake but not the front.
Have the same problem on my coupe on the passenger side after replacing the door lock actuators. I was not tearing it apart again after the hell I went through. Someone was in there before and it took me 1 1/2 hours to extract the screws that hold the latch into the door. I was not impressed.
qman and nick, those cables (front door(s) on a sedan) are what drove me to try the heat shrink method. Why Honda designed something so difficult that has such a high probability of failure is beyond me. I'm thinking of doing my passenger side before it fails!!! The guy who's post I read deserves an award for thinking "outside the box" on a fix.
That's no lie. those little cheapo plastic ends are absolutely worthless. I think the last one that broke I zip tied it in place and covered it in RTV.
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