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SO I mentioned this in another thread, but thought I'd start yet another oil thread, since they seem to be so prevalent these days. Mostly, I wanted to share with my fellow OCD sufferers. LOL

I know some of you may disagree with going from a full syn to semi-synthetic, but understand that I didn't switch because of cost, or because I think Pennzoil is bad oil. It is perfectly good or better yet -- great oil. Furthermore, I've been using it for many years, before and after it got converted to the natural gas base. I also didn't switch because I needed a seal swelling high mileage oil or any of the other crap. My car doesn't leak and the engine is tight at 181K. I switched because of quite a bit of research led me to Maxlife and it has proved to have one of the toughest oil films. I also have personal experience with Maxlife oil....

Years ago, I bought a truck that had 245K on it. When pulled the dipstick, the oil was barely registering on the bottom. When I checked the owner's records, the oil hadn't been changed in roughly 20K and he hadn't checked the dipstick for probably the better part of a year. The fact that there was still oil in it, led me to purchase it (cheap). It still lives on today and is in great cond. It was later while rereading the records that I saw it had been changed with Maxlife oil. I believe that had it been a lesser oil, the former owner would have lost the engine. Anyway, I'm getting off track.

As we know, the most important job of any oil is to prevent wear. It does so by keeping a thin film of oil between moving parts. Based on that, I researched oil tests and analysis... more importantly, INDEPENDENT oil tests, which used physical torture tests resulting in scarred metal. The best one I came across is linked below. It's quite long, but my warped mind found it interesting enough to read thru to it's entirety. I've followed his writings for years on various oil forums and his tests are the real deal. I believe they cut through the hype of the oil companies and allow us mere mortals to choose an oil based on true performance.

Anyway, I ended up choosing Valvoline Maxlife 5W-30 because his (and a few other) tests had it scoring outstanding on wear protection. To use his words, it gives you a "higher margin of safety." Given that it's a semi-syn and oil companies never reveal their synthetic to conventional ratio, I add a single qt of Pennzoil platinum to ramp up the synthetic content.

Enjoy the read, if you are so inclined. Don't be confused by the fact that Pennzoil Platinum was the highest scoring oil. That was the case BEFORE they switched to natural gas formula and the old formulation is no longer available. The blog is old and he keeps updating it.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

...Drew...
 

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Not another oil thread. We love oil threads!

All jokes aside, thanks for the info. I tried Penz Plat once and didn't like it. The engine was a bit louder and was ticking. That's not the case with regular Penzoil High Mileage, so I switched back to conventional high mileage I was using. I may give it a go based on your thread.
 

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Thanks for the info. I have been considering switching to a high mileage oil from my conventional 5w20 I'm doing now. However oil consumption seems to be not as bad as I thought so maybe I'll just stick to conventional.
 

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Thanks for the info. I have been considering switching to a high mileage oil from my conventional 5w20 I'm doing now. However oil consumption seems to be not as bad as I thought so maybe I'll just stick to conventional.
It's better to have no consumption than not as bad consumption. I don't see why you wouldn't switch to high mileage. Nothing to lose.
 

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It's better to have no consumption than not as bad consumption. I don't see why you wouldn't switch to high mileage. Nothing to lose.
Alright thanks, I may give it a go on my next change. Will ask my current oil change shop if they have any high mileage available, or if not if I can purchase the oil and have them change it with that.
 

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I enjoy reading about oil. Not so much that I spend much time on BITOG, but I like an article now and then.

But this Guy is so HARD to read with all the random Capitalization or Upper-casing of various WORDS. And while I admire Confidence, it's difficult to TRUST someone so Boastful as to say things like this: "Of course I’ve always known my carefully generated data is completely accurate."
 

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I enjoy reading about oil. Not so much that I spend much time on BITOG, but I like an article now and then.

But this Guy is so HARD to read with all the random Capitalization or Upper-casing of various WORDS. And while I admire Confidence, it's difficult to TRUST someone so Boastful as to say things like this: "Of course I’ve always known my carefully generated data is completely accurate."
Just read the conclusion. They say everything was said is summarized there anyway :D
 

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I bought the 7 Gen that my son now drives new. I have to admit, I don't check the oil as much as I probably should, but thankfully, even before I change it, it is always on the upper part of the good range on the dipstick. I haven't owned a car with this many miles on it since college. This thread got me thinking that with 125K on the clock, maybe it's time for high mileage oil. With the miles I had been driving it, it didn't very often go more than 6 months without an oil change. I have to say, Mobil 1 5w20 has been good to this car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This thread got me thinking that with 125K on the clock, maybe it's time for high mileage oil.
If there are no leaks/burning and the engine's still sounds tight, there is no specific need for high mileage. I only ended up with Maxlife High Mileage because it scored highly in the tests. Now, it is possible that the additives formulated for it's "high mileage" designation has something to do with that.

I skipped to the list after reading a bit. M1 was his top-rated 0w-20, which is interesting as it also seems to win the cold-pour tests on Youtube.
Mobil 1 is highly rated in most tests I've come across. You can hardly go wrong with it. Not to say the Maxlife doesn't flow well, but I added 1qt of Pennzoil full syn to the Maxlife, with cold pour in mind.

But this Guy is so HARD to read with all the random Capitalization or Upper-casing of various WORDS. And while I admire Confidence, it's difficult to TRUST someone so Boastful as to say things like this: "Of course I’ve always known my carefully generated data is completely accurate."
I feel you on those points and they are valid, but don't let it dissuade you from the big picture. I haven't found a better independent test out there. The oil brands are even more boastful, if you get my drift.
 

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I agree. If I ever thought I needed "high mileage" I'd switch to a conventional or blend as well. I've thought about running maxlife many times. But I'll stick with platinum for now, at least through this winter. Though I'd do the 5w20 instead of 5w30.
 

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I actually tried 5w-30 once, and the engine seemed to make more noise, so it was ruled out. I went with the Mobil 1 high mileage 0w-20, and the level on the dipstick hasn't moved after 4000 miles so far, so I'll probably stick with it for now. I keep hearing that the 0w-20 is a better oil than the 5w-20, and since Honda now recommends it for our engines, I switched.
 

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I personally am a fan of Castrol 20w50 in some applications.
 

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before and after it got converted to the natural gas base
I can't say anything about the formula, but I can tell you this.

The synthetic oil in most synthetic oil starts as ethylene (more likely) and/or propylene (less likely). You can get to ethylene or propylene by cracking either cuts from crude oil of natural gas liquids. You have to be more selective in choosing the NGL if you want a significant propylene fraction. But those molecules are the same, whether from nat gas or crude, and the downstream molecules will be the same and perform the same, assuming they are in the same formulation.

Natural gas base means it's more likely have come from US hydrocarbon production, but the amount of US crude production is much higher than it was even five years ago.
 

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I've been using that oil (maxlife 5w-20)exclusively over the past 4 years because Wal-mart used to run good rebates for maxlife and other valvoline oils.

No complaints so far, 162k miles and no leaks so knock on wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I actually tried 5w-30 once, and the engine seemed to make more noise, so it was ruled out. I went with the Mobil 1 high mileage 0w-20, and the level on the dipstick hasn't moved after 4000 miles so far, so I'll probably stick with it for now. I keep hearing that the 0w-20 is a better oil than the 5w-20, and since Honda now recommends it for our engines, I switched.

Try this oil...it scored outstandingly. All the rest with same viscosity were faaar below it.

0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic = 96,364 psi


I haven't had the balls to go with oil that thin yet. Here is how I see it. Why aren't just about all light vehicle engine oils made with winter weight viscosity of zero? Don't we all want quickest cold flow? I mean, why does 5W-20 even exist if 0W-20 will heat up to the same viscosity? And these oils are being used in the same engine class, so you really can't say the engine "needs" 5W, or even 10W, over 0W. The margin of safety with these super thin oils is quite low. I mean, there is a reason why my riding mower tells me to avoid using multi-grade oils in the heat of summer, yet recommends them in winter (yes, I know it's not water cooled). It tells me to stick with SAE30 instead in the heat. That "0w" has a thinning effect on 20W or 30W side of things... it's not that linear and they are not exclusive at the hot end of the temp range.

Take two cars, identical in every way, including engine condition. Run one with 0W-20 and the other with 5W-30. You may never notice a difference. Both oils may be good enough. Now, introduce an extreme condition. A busted coolant hose or a hole in the oil pan. Which one do you think will come away with the least damage, if caught within a reasonable time? I use extreme examples, but it could be something as demure as an inattentive owner who hates to check oil or coolant levels, or lets it go for too long. We have plenty of those here.
 

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Try this oil...it scored outstandingly. All the rest with same viscosity were faaar below it.

0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic = 96,364 psi
I'll look for it, for the next oil change, but I'm not inclined to go searching at every store in town, for a specific oil. If Wally World doesn't have it, I'll just pick up Mobile 1 in either the 0w-20 or 5w-20, and assume it's safe.

I don't get why people use 5w-30 oil, and claim it's because of HOT climate. The temperature gauge goes up to the same position (just below middle), whether it's 95 degrees outside or 35 degrees. Doesn't that mean the engine is running at the same temperature, regardless of climate? It just gets up to that temperature quicker in Summer.
 

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Try this oil...it scored outstandingly. All the rest with same viscosity were faaar below it.

0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic = 96,364 psi


I haven't had the balls to go with oil that thin yet. Here is how I see it. Why aren't just about all light vehicle engine oils made with winter weight viscosity of zero? Don't we all want quickest cold flow? I mean, why does 5W-20 even exist if 0W-20 will heat up to the same viscosity? And these oils are being used in the same engine class, so you really can't say the engine "needs" 5W, or even 10W, over 0W. The margin of safety with these super thin oils is quite low. I mean, there is a reason why my riding mower tells me to avoid using multi-grade oils in the heat of summer, yet recommends them in winter (yes, I know it's not water cooled). It tells me to stick with SAE30 instead in the heat. That "0w" has a thinning effect on 20W or 30W side of things... it's not that linear and they are not exclusive at the hot end of the temp range.

Take two cars, identical in every way, including engine condition. Run one with 0W-20 and the other with 5W-30. You may never notice a difference. Both oils may be good enough. Now, introduce an extreme condition. A busted coolant hose or a hole in the oil pan. Which one do you think will come away with the least damage, if caught within a reasonable time? I use extreme examples, but it could be something as demure as an inattentive owner who hates to check oil or coolant levels, or lets it go for too long. We have plenty of those here.
My "work" car is a chevy lumina 3.1. It actually overheated the other day when it was about 90* and humid outside. Temp gauge pegged, coolant tank boiling, lol. The oil in it is el cheapo valvoline something (not sure). And it still works. The only reason is because I'm not the owner of the car, I don't get paid to maintain the car, and the owner of the car doesn't care about the car. So it gets its yearly oil change and that's it! You'd puke if you saw how disgusting the coolant overflow tank looks. lol. I will say though, the car has been TOUGH in standing up to the stop and go, driving through grass 5-6' tall, muddy pothole roads, overheating, crawling up hills, off roading, etc. I'm surprised it has held up. I know my accord probably would NOT hold up to that abuse.

0w20 is tougher than you think, and the guy even said the better flowing oils are better than thicker oils that don't flow as well. I've ran 0w20 during the hottest summers and have no problems with my engine. But then again, it doesn't matter what you run, especially in georgia. Just don't go putting in 20w50 or something crazy like that.


I'll look for it, for the next oil change, but I'm not inclined to go searching at every store in town, for a specific oil. If Wally World doesn't have it, I'll just pick up Mobile 1 in either the 0w-20 or 5w-20, and assume it's safe.

I don't get why people use 5w-30 oil, and claim it's because of HOT climate. The temperature gauge goes up to the same position (just below middle), whether it's 95 degrees outside or 35 degrees. Doesn't that mean the engine is running at the same temperature, regardless of climate? It just gets up to that temperature quicker in Summer.
As I understand, 5w30 shears to a 5w20 anyway, so I just prefer a 20 anyway. I do like thinner oils that get flowing quicker on a cold engine, because most wear occurs at startup. Driving all day long doesn't wear nearly as much as cold starts.
 
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