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Discussion Starter #1
Okay I have looked at a lot of the other threads for the door locks but none have the same issue as mine it just started like a week ago but when I put the car in park my passenger side door unlocks and my drivers side doesn't. Now I have tried to unlock with key fob and with unlock button on door panel and when doing both it looks like it's trying to move and I can hear a click sound but the door doesn't unlock but both doors lock fine with the key fob and the door panel button. Any ideas on what it is? Car is a 2010 accord coupe v6
 

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Old guy
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If it Sounds like it's working,the little rod that attches may have broke or fell off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can I get a part number for the door lock actuator for a the 2010 coupes I've tried looking them up with no luck
 

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2010 Honda Accord EX
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This is similar to my rear door lock failure (my car is a sedan). Replacing the actuator fixed the issue (under warranty so I don't have a part number for you).
 

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Okay I have looked at a lot of the other threads for the door locks but none have the same issue as mine it just started like a week ago but when I put the car in park my passenger side door unlocks and my drivers side doesn't. Now I have tried to unlock with key fob and with unlock button on door panel and when doing both it looks like it's trying to move and I can hear a click sound but the door doesn't unlock but both doors lock fine with the key fob and the door panel button. Any ideas on what it is? Car is a 2010 accord coupe v6
We do tons of door lock actuators all the time. on all years and models. The fact that your telling me that it looks likes its trying to move makes me feel even stronger that its an actuator. When they go bad, they dont always just stop working. Some do, but others get weak and cant fully operate the mechanism. Sometimes that symptom is accompanied by a little squeak noise from the actuator.

If your handy with electrical fundamentals, testing it is easy. You just need a DMM, and its a matter of electrically operating the locks while testing for battery voltage at the connector and making sure that the voltage switches polarity when going from lock to unlock. If you want to get into it i can walk you through it. But honestly, knowing how many actuators we replace, and by what your saying its doing, you most likely need the actuator. not to expensive
 

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For a part number, look on Bernardiparts.com or just call your honda dealer parts department with your VIN number and tell them what door lock actuator you want a part number for.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
We do tons of door lock actuators all the time. on all years and models. The fact that your telling me that it looks likes its trying to move makes me feel even stronger that its an actuator. When they go bad, they dont always just stop working. Some do, but others get weak and cant fully operate the mechanism. Sometimes that symptom is accompanied by a little squeak noise from the actuator.

If your handy with electrical fundamentals, testing it is easy. You just need a DMM, and its a matter of electrically operating the locks while testing for battery voltage at the connector and making sure that the voltage switches polarity when going from lock to unlock. If you want to get into it i can walk you through it. But honestly, knowing how many actuators we replace, and by what your saying its doing, you most likely need the actuator. not to expensive
Do you have any advice on how to remove the rod and cable from the actuator I tried getting them off to no avail and the DIYs I found were all for different gens.
 

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Do you have any advice on how to remove the rod and cable from the actuator I tried getting them off to no avail and the DIYs I found were all for different gens.
Yes i know how to do it, but doing it and explaining it on a forum are different. im happy to try tho! Perhaps you can send me a picture of what your referring to. If you want ill PM u my number so you can take photos with your phone and text them if you think its easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes i know how to do it, but doing it and explaining it on a forum are different. im happy to try tho!
the rod im talking about is the one that attaches to the outside door handle the clip that is on it is one you turn 90* and usually pull the rod out but idk if these are just a real PITA to pull out or what. The cable is the one that runs from the door lock cylinder to the lock assembly I couldn't figure that thing out for the world. I wont get pictures till i actually get the parts today i was just seeing how much of a PITA it would be to get it out.
 

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the rod im talking about is the one that attaches to the outside door handle the clip that is on it is one you turn 90* and usually pull the rod out but idk if these are just a real PITA to pull out or what. The cable is the one that runs from the door lock cylinder to the lock assembly I couldn't figure that thing out for the world. I wont get pictures till i actually get the parts today i was just seeing how much of a PITA it would be to get it out.
ahhhh, yes. THAT one. Its actually pretty easy. once the door panel is off, and you peel the water barrier down, there are usually a few circular holes in the sheet metal. Sometimes they have rubber grommets or plugs in them. Sometimes they have a greyish "sticker" covering the holes. take them out so you can see through the holes. the one your gonna go through is about the size of a quarter. Look through it so you can see the rod and the clip. with a pick tools, or whatever, rotate the clip so the rod just has to be pulled out. Then, use the hole to insert a large, flat blade screwdriver between the rod, and the arm on the inner handle. then give it a twist to pry the rod outward.

As far as the cable for the door locks... Where it connects to the actuator you'll feel two "ears" on the sleeve of the cable. They allow you a place to grab, to pull outward (towards the outer part of the door) to disconnect the cable.

Its hard trying to articulate how do fix something online, so i sorry if things are getting lost in translation. Im home now, but tomorrow if you like i can print up the procedures and send them to you if you have a fax machine. Otherwise i can do what iv done for many on here, and just take pictures of the procedures and post them.

Let me know if i can help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
okay thanks didn't think about using a screwdriver to pry the rod out and the only thing I have a question about is when you say outer part of the door I think door skin side am I correct on that? If so that explains why I was cussing at that damn clip.
 

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okay thanks didn't think about using a screwdriver to pry the rod out and the only thing I have a question about is when you say outer part of the door I think door skin side am I correct on that? If so that explains why I was cussing at that damn clip.
yes to remove the lock cyl cable from the actuator, you have to pull outward on the sleeve. (which has those two ears on it)

and yes, when i say outward, i mean towards the door skin/outside of the vehicle.

after you put the door back together, make sure that before you close it, you simulate the door being shut by moving the latch to the closed position with a screwdriver. Then operate the handles, and locks and such. I have seen to many "****y" techs shut the door without testing all of the operations. and when they can open the door cause they messed up, and cant get the panel off cause the door is closed...... mayhem.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright thanks so much for the info I was trying to push on the tabs and cussing like no other because they wouldn't move. I will definitely make sure to simulate the door closing before I actually close it. thanks again for all the help and info
 

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Your very welcome. I do this all day long for a living. And I love it. But I see the bills that I write up for people and I can't imagine having to pay for this shit. I literally sign on here in my spare time to give back a little. So please, never hesitate to ask. If I have the time, I'll always help the best As possible from a laptop. Let me know how it turns out.

Cheers,

Chuck
 

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Your very welcome. I do this all day long for a living. And I love it. But I see the bills that I write up for people and I can't imagine having to pay for this shit. I literally sign on here in my spare time to give back a little. So please, never hesitate to ask. If I have the time, I'll always help the best As possible from a laptop. Let me know how it turns out.

Cheers,

Chuck
Chuck,

Mighty noble of you to contribute in your free time, especially after you deal with this sort of thing all day. I, too, have been having a similar issue with my door locks, except the driver's side door will neither unlock nor lock any way but manually. Every once in awhile one of the passenger doors acts up, but the main culprit is the driver's side door. Given what I've read on other forums/threads, this sounds actuator-related, too. I'm curious about two things: 1) What do you think? and 2) When you mentioned a new actuator being "not too expensive" in an earlier post, were you just talking about the part or the part+labor?
 

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Hey there! To answer your question about what I think about your issue, if the passenger side failures have been completely unrelated to the drivers side, (the failures have no correlation or pattern with one another) then u MOST LIKLEY need actuators. As I have seen many fail. However without testing them I of course can't and won't tell u "yes u need an actuator." If ur familiar with a multimeter and electrical testing, I can send u schematics and how to test the actuator. It's physically simple, but may seem complex to someone who isn't used to electrical diag.

Your second question about expense, I believe it's a safe bet to say that a dealer would charge an hour for electrical diagnosis. (That's the common average at my dealer. It won't take that long but the benefit to the tech that knows how do that stuff is he get the diag done quickly and makes money on the job. We aren't hourly) then I would assume another hour for the repair. So 2 hours labor. My dealer is $125 per hour. I'm sure it varies on location. As far as the part, I'm totally guessing here but I would guess between 100-150 for the part.

I see crazy bills all day, so I would consider that part to be very cheap. Add that labor to it and yeah, u won't be going out that weekend LOL. The biggest risk to trying it urself is breaking something. So I would contemplate how "handy" u are and make a decision based on that.

Hope this helped!

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Chuck that's again for the helpful info I got both replaced in around 2 hours and the issue is gone.

Yourhuckleberry, as far as parts cost the price I was quoted from the dealer was around 180$ for both door latch assemblies I got them online for right under 100$ and if you have any mechanical ability you can do it yourself and save a lot of money
 

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Chuck that's again for the helpful info I got both replaced in around 2 hours and the issue is gone.

Yourhuckleberry, as far as parts cost the price I was quoted from the dealer was around 180$ for both door latch assemblies I got them online for right under 100$ and if you have any mechanical ability you can do it yourself and save a lot of money
Excellent! Did you do it yourself?

Thanks for the parts info. Sorry to Yourhuckleberry. Its hard for me to remember pricing. Im just a wrench, so i can quote labor decently. But the bill is usually generated by the advisor.

Im Glad to hear that simple knowledge transfer on DA helped out another Honda owner. after all, its why we are here!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Honest mistake on quoting parts, plus that's for Jefferson City, MO. Yes I did do it myself it was not very hard at all. I'm glad there are people like you on here that do it everyday for a living because you saved me a lot of money thanks again for your help
 
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