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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We're in the process of replacing the clutch on my sons 2006 2.4 5 speed and have run into a roadblock. Things have gone pretty smoothly disconnecting everything up to this point but now we evidently have to remove the entire subframe to lower the engine in order to take off the tranny. How complex is this? We have the Haynes manual but it is not really that helpful in explaining the procedure ( I think we've had to refer to 5 chapters so far for different steps!). Anyone done this? We're kind of stumped by the steering rack assembly and decided to stop until we could get more info before moving on to removing the subframe. Book says we need two jacks to remove subframe and one to raise engine (slightly) and one hoist to hold tranny! ???? Thanks for any help.
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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You would need to disconnect the power steering hoses(and steering shaft), motor mounts, struts, and lower ball joints.

The sub frame drops as a complete unit, the lower control arms are attached to it.

Depending on your situation and work space, it may be easier to pull the engine and trans together from the top.

Jim
 

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So not looking to swapping my clutch out...lol

But yes. You need to unscrew the engine mounts in the front and back. Unscrew the shock. Ball joint. Power steering hoses and the end link where the steering column goes in. After that you put a jack under the engine so it ddoesn't fall as you are dropping the sub frame. And then unscrew the subframe
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK, thanks for the replies. I still have a question about the steering rack. Is it removed entirely, or just the hoses? It looks like you have to take off the entire rack because it is attached to the steering wheel shaft, you can't just remove the hoses?
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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It is removed from the steering shaft from inside the car. There is one bolt that holds it on to the rack. I'll get a pic, I've got the sub frame half in the car now, you'll see where it goes into the car.

Jim
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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Here is the rack where it goes into the cabin. And the second from inside the cabin where the bolt is that holds the steering shaft on the rack.
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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The rack stays with the sub frame. Disconnect the shaft, and the hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, thanks guys, I think I now get it. I didn't realize the steering rack connection was inside the car. So now we need to remove the subframe with two jacks, or can two people lower it by hand? Seems like the book calls for an engine hoist to hold the tranny--one jack to support the engine--and two jacks to lower the sub frame!
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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I had a floor jack under the engine, and left the transmission connected to it. Then me and a friend lowered the frame by our selves easily (it only weighs about 50 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, thanks. Looks like we're 3/4 there, just need to drop the darn thing. Then I assume we just lower the jack under the engine (oil pan?) enough to pull the tranny off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Because of the weather we haven't dropped the subframe yet. Is the steering rack supposed to be completely disconnected from the shaft before you drop the sub frame, or does it just come off as you drop the frame (yes, we loosened the bolt!)?
 

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IIRC the manual says to disconnect it. It isn't hard, just pry up and it will slide right off the shaft. Just make sure you mark the position, other wise the steering wheel will be off (mine had a plastic guide, and marks didn't get where I wanted it). But it seemed to go back on correctly.....But we'll see later on today if I can get the driver side axle back in and drive it.
 

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Did you see the framework I made out of 4x4s in my photo album that held the engine? That's what you need to do.

The engine stays put the whole time. You have to slide the trans away from the engine without tilting or dropping the engine. Getting it off wasn't hard, but getting it back on was definitely not fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, got a chance to drop the subframe, what a nightmare. There are bolts that are a real biatch to get to; particularly the rear motor mount. We did finally get the subframe lowered and pulled the tranny. The throwout bearing had totally disintegrated and the pressure plate fingers were all bent in. Also, the sleeve that the throw out bearing rides on was damaged and had grooves worn in it. Now my question is; how do you replace that sleave? Its part of the transmission case and does not come off like I've seen on Toyotas? Do you have to replace the entire transmission just for the damaged sleeve?
 

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If it is part of the cast trans case, it can't be replaced without replacing the front half of the trans case. I suppose you could somehow turn down the grooved part of the case and then sleeve it with a harder metal.
Are the grooves in that casting inhibiting the movement/sliding of the throwout bearing? Which way are the grooves worn? Stacked perpendicular to the direction of the input shaft or running parallel to the input shaft? Picture?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If it is part of the cast trans case, it can't be replaced without replacing the front half of the trans case. I suppose you could somehow turn down the grooved part of the case and then sleeve it with a harder metal.
Are the grooves in that casting inhibiting the movement/sliding of the throwout bearing? Which way are the grooves worn? Stacked perpendicular to the direction of the input shaft or running parallel to the input shaft? Picture?
The grooves are caused by the spinning of the throw out bearing (what was left of it) turning on the shaft, so they are perpendicular to the shaft. I bought some "steel" epoxy to see if it will ride smoothly after we repair the grooves. I just confirmed with the dealer that you do indeed have to buy the entire front tranny casing to replace that throw out bearing shaft if its damaged. Unbelievable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good news! The metal sleeve/shaft that the throw out bearing rides on is pretty soft and so we were able to clean it up pretty good with a file. The bearing rides on it very smoothly now. Now we just need to put all this back together. Bottom line, I don't think I'd do this again if I could find someone to do it for less than $750 or so. It's just too much work.
 

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I don't think I'd do this again if I could find someone to do it for less than $750 or so. It's just too much work.
LOL. I was quoted $1300-1500 for LABOR ONLY by 6 places. About 9 minutes after leaving place #6 I decided to do it myself. And forget any custom 'clean up' work on the bearing glide shaft.
 

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I actually did this all by myself in 12 hours with a hour lunch. And what I did was unscrew the 6 bolts holding the steering rack and let it hang.

Not that hard of a job. Just time consuming but in the end......it was very well worth it. I can actually apply more then 35% throttle without the clutch slipping. ;) but I do have the v6.

Only 'problem' I ran Into was one of the nuts was giving me problems from the cat to the j pipe. Nothing some wd40 couldn't fix. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After resting on our laurels for a few days, I guess it wasn't that bad---we just didn't realize that the entire sub frame would have to drop first and that rear motor mount was a biatch. Final question---is there some kind of limited slip in the manual tranny? When we finished the clutch install we started the car with the front wheels still off the ground and only the left side wheel/hub turned. The right side didn't rotate, even in third gear. Worked great on the roadtest though. ??
 
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