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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First 2012 Accord I4 that I had since 36 miles got murdered at 44,000 miles. Picked up a 2012 Accord V6 with about 54,000 miles.

Here's a list of what is going to be done to it:

Performance Parts:

KTuner:
Tune @XactDyno for 91 Octane with all mods installed.
Disable VCM
Disable coasting fuel cut
Linear gas pedal response
Idle target raised 800 rpm​

Engine:
RV6 HFPC
RV6 J-Pipe / 3rd Cat Delete
HeelToe J37 intake manifold + throttle body kit.
Throttle body coolant bypass.
L3 Racing CAI (eBay Injen clone) + AEM dry cone filter.​

Brakes:
Motul RBF600 fluid
Centric High Carbon Cryo rotors (x4)
Akebono Performance pads
Goodridge stainless lines
Wheels/Suspension:
9G HFP Wheels (19") with 235/40/R19 on Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
Koni FSD with V6 springs (remove the I4 springs)
Ultra Racing 22mm rear sway bar
Maybe Ultra Racing Chassis Bracing (3 bars)
Maybe Voodoo13 rear control arms w/spherical bushings​

Misc:
LED brake lights + Reverse lights (Diode Dynamics)​


Maintenance:
Replace engine oil
Replace oil filter
Replace coolant
Replace PS fluid
Replace cabin air filter
Run bottle of Redline SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner
Replace wiper blades
Drain + Fill tranny fluid x3
Replace drive belt
Replace pads + rotors + bed-in
Replace battery with AGM Group 24F (Bosch Platinum)

Detailing:
Wash + Clay Bar + 4 stage paint polish
Sealant + Paste Wax topper
Dress tires
Shampoo + Condition leather
Clean all glass
Remove all ArmorAll from dashboard
Misc:
Install OEM Interior Illumination Kit
Door Grip pockets
Replace driver's sun visor
Replace x4 outer door weatherstriping
Weathertech Mats​


Man, typing all this out has me worried that the list is massive!
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #4

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2015 Accord Touring I4
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2,120 Posts
Murdered how? Totaled or did the engine/trans go BOOM.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #6

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2015 Accord Touring I4
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2,120 Posts

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V4 Watch
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840 Posts
Disable coasting fuel cut
You are going to have to explain this one to me because I don't understand why anyone would do this. Are you worried about fuel cut unsettling the car in a hard corner? Going for deceleration crackles?
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You are going to have to explain this one to me because I don't understand why anyone would do this. Are you worried about fuel cut unsettling the car in a hard corner? Going for deceleration crackles?
It just smooths the drive out a bit more when the engine isn't cutting fuel in and out, same with VCM although that obviously wasn't' a thing on Accord #1's I4. It's all particularly noticeable when in stop-and-go traffic where you might be barely on the gas for a second, and then you just want to coast and you get jerkiness from stuff turning on and off constantly. I found fuel cut didn't make a noticeable difference in fuel economy either.

Also, it makes braking and coasting more predictable. There's no "surge" forward when the engine turns back on <20mph.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Update:

Going through the last 2 stages of polishing now. My garage is hot (like 95F+ hot) so I have to take frequent breaks to cool off which dramatically slows me down so the whole car polishing in total is probably about 36 hours of work. I'm so used to seeing white paint from Accord #1 that it's messing with my head a bit seeing paint that absorbs light instead of reflecting. I'm aiming for about 95% paint correction, but deeper scratches I'm not going after (the kinds that would require an aggressive cutting compound or wet sanding). This thing is going to look amazing when it's done.

Drive belt is replaced. I've done so many on Accord #1 that doing it on Accord #2 is no big deal.

Cabin air filter is also replaced. The previous owner was an occasional smoker so the car does have a musk to it.

Brake and Reverse lights done.

Wheels + tires done.

24F AGM battery done.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Car is fully polished and detailed inside and out (well except for the engine bay which was dealership "detailed" anyways). I may do another pass on the seatbelts, but the leather has been shampoo-ed 3x and conditioned, dashboard cleaned, etc.

Paint is absolutely stunning. It of course has some door dings and the previous owner backed into some things, but with a black car it hides a lot of that.

I'll retake my avatar photo in the same position. Won't be exactly the same because there's now solar parking structures in that area, but close enough :)

Up next is ordering some Race Ramps to replace the crappy Rhino Ramps I had (don't buy Rhino Ramps...they're a disaster waiting to happen), and then I can get on with fluid replacements. Yeah I could just use a floor jack and jackstands, but with the amount of maintenance I have to do I just want to speed it up.
 

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2015 Accord Touring I4
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2,120 Posts
Nice, post some photos. My 08 was black also and it was a disaster, full of scratches from the previous owner. I had serious buyers remorse after getting it home (never shop a black car on a cloudy day) lol.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #13

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Small update:

First, I've put the V6 springs on my Koni FSD shocks. Not too hard with an impact and spring compressors. The V6 springs add another coil in the front, and the rear looks identical vs. I4 but has different part number so who knows maybe slightly thicker wire. I can't install them until I get a buddy to come over to help, since it's not possible to do a 1 person install.

Second, removed the dealer added alarm system. Installation quality was alright, but the thing is just going to drain battery and be annoying whenever the car is vibrated (closing the hood, trunk, polishing, etc). Even with the alarm turned off it would still be shock sensitive...stupid design.

What's currently in there is a Voxx Pursuit system. It's tapped into 5 wires (always-on power, "on" ignition switch wire, horn, trunk latch sensor, and the stock alarm system wire), and interrupts the start ignition-key wire. It is also tapped into the door unlock switch via a slice in the grommet that goes to the door panel from the under-dash fuse box area (I'm not exactly sure what the strategy is there...keep a thief locked in the car?) I spent about an hour mapping out what it was tied into (they seemed to use random wire colors so the same circuit would change colors 3 times), and then another hour cutting it out and soldering + heat-shrinking the loose wires.

The dealership was not using half of the input/outputs of the control box. Attached is a diagram of the control box in case anyone happens to show up here from google looking for it.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Update (again):

Changed the spark plugs (because who doesn't do that at 2:30AM?). Cylinders 1-3 are unhappy (the bank closest to the firewall). Cylinder #3 especially looks oily. Cylinder #2 was missing a piece of the insulator and looked like it was having random side-sparking.

I'll have to monitor for oil consumption...tailpipe looks low-soot. I swear I picked up power with the new plugs. EDIT: I checked the service manual, the front bank is all-on in 3 cylinder mode and the rear bank is off, so that might explain why all 3 back plugs look similar since the car was driven by an older lady previously who probably ECO-ed for 99% of the time.

I also calibrated the compass and set it to zone 5 to correspond to AZ. Hold menu button for 5 seconds and it's a "secret menu".

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=429738
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=429730
 

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2020 best year
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4,173 Posts
Cylinder 3 gets shut off in both 3 and 4-cyl mode, so it usually gets dirty quickly.

Try disabling VCM when you get the KTuner.

Here were mine. Three guesses which one was in cylinder 3. First two don't count.


Sent via MHA-L29. Whatever.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Cylinder 3 gets shut off in both 3 and 4-cyl mode, so it usually gets dirty quickly.

Try disabling VCM when you get the KTuner.

Here were mine. Three guesses which one was in cylinder 3. First two don't count.
Sent via MHA-L29. Whatever.
One on the right is cylinder 3. I'm going based on the darkness of the insulator.

Kinda interesting that your plugs look very close to mine (minus the broken insulator...I'm sure the engine wasn't happy about that blowing through, probably still stuck in the precat).

KTuner doesn't support disabling VCM yet for my ECU model number. Fortunately he lives <10 miles from me so I can work with him on fixing that :) He also said that his current fix may not be complete enough based on the feedback received (paraphrasing here), so I'm just going to let him have my car for a day or something to sort it out.
 

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One on the right is cylinder 3. I'm going based on the darkness of the insulator.

Kinda interesting that your plugs look very close to mine (minus the broken insulator...I'm sure the engine wasn't happy about that blowing through, probably still stuck in the precat).

KTuner doesn't support disabling VCM yet for my ECU model number. Fortunately he lives <10 miles from me so I can work with him on fixing that :) He also said that his current fix may not be complete enough based on the feedback received (paraphrasing here), so I'm just going to let him have my car for a day or something to sort it out.
My plugs on my odyssey looked the same. The rear bank is the VCM cylinders.

Ktuner doesn't support your ECU?? It says "*08-12 Accord V6 AT*-VCM Disable Added" on May 23 on their FB.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
My plugs on my odyssey looked the same. The rear bank is the VCM cylinders.

Ktuner doesn't support your ECU?? It says "*08-12 Accord V6 AT*-VCM Disable Added" on May 23 on their FB.


The thing is between 2008-2012 there was like 9 different ECU model numbers for the Accord V6. PZEV vs. ULEV, MT vs. AT, then changes based on model year.

"37820-R84-A51 through A54"

I happen to have 37820-R84-A53 (my car being ULEV AT Oct. 2011 production) which isn't supported yet for disabling VCM. I can do other things just not that.
 

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2020 best year
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4,173 Posts
One on the right is cylinder 3. I'm going based on the darkness of the insulator.

Kinda interesting that your plugs look very close to mine (minus the broken insulator...I'm sure the engine wasn't happy about that blowing through, probably still stuck in the precat).

KTuner doesn't support disabling VCM yet for my ECU model number. Fortunately he lives <10 miles from me so I can work with him on fixing that :) He also said that his current fix may not be complete enough based on the feedback received (paraphrasing here), so I'm just going to let him have my car for a day or something to sort it out.
Yep, you are right.

One of the differences I noticed was that the car used to shake when the engine is shut off. With new plugs, it doesn't shake nearly as hard when I shut the car off.

I must wonder what caused the insulator to blow up.

I am sure it's not that difficult. Worst comes to worst, I still have my VCMuffler I can sell for cheap, now that I don't have my Accord anymore...
 
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