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E-brakes in 13-17 Accord.....

786 Views 13 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  dfarr67
Drivers side rear calliper was replaced under warranty for frozen e-brake (would not release) looking at the other side now. Is there an upgrade or practise to get decent life out of these- or is it a problem area? Car is a MT6 and the parking brake is in regular use.
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I thought about pushing for warranty work on mine, but I just did this myself last night (~$100 for a rebuilt one). I was able to free mine up last fall, but that only lasted a month or so.

My son has a 13 and his is froze up as well. We will be doing that one in the next couple weeks... both of us are MT6 also, with regular use of the e-brake.
Make sure your caliper slide pins are well lubed. On that, make sure the rubber boots are intact. On my '01, one of the boots was torn & allowed water in. Basically, the pin rusted to the inside of the caliper bracket, it took some elbow grease to get it freed up.
I flush the brake fluid every 3-4 years, with summer tire change over I wash all the salt/sand out from the wheel wells and body, and every two years I lube all the pins and pads Iand yes the rubber can be delicate)- what more could it want?
Ended up doing the right side last night, as the piston was froze in the caliper on this one. Pins were free as a bird in both left and right before replacement as I did that with the fluid and pads 2 years ago. Apparently they failed for different reasons, but for $200 and a couple hours in the evening, I'm back to good as new with a nice tight operating e-brake.

My car has 113k on it.
So- ordered R and L rear from Rock, Raybestos NEW so I keep my old oem for a reseal and spares. Rock's discounts aren't as easy to find as they used to be. So all in for both sides $330cdn vs dealer $370 for one side. I hope Raybestos quality is decent, ACD was in the running slightly more expensive- but as I understand it......they are no longer the brand I am familiar with- ie manufacturer vs reboxer.
So- ordered R and L rear from Rock, Raybestos NEW so I keep my old oem for a reseal and spares. Rock's discounts aren't as easy to find as they used to be. So all in for both sides $330cdn vs dealer $370 for one side. I hope Raybestos quality is decent, ACD was in the running slightly more expensive- but as I understand it......they are no longer the brand I am familiar with- ie manufacturer vs reboxer.
So RockAuto was worth it even with shipping to Canada? I've looked but never ordered from them.
You have to run the numbers. I don't need both sides right now- but probably will eventually with what I'm reading, and I wanted to keep my oe cores so I can redo myself with Honda seals. The companies want those cores back and actually the better reman names were more expensive total price than new without the need for cores to be sent back. The best deal in Vancouver with 'free- that never is' was $199 each for AC Delco, which they said where probably reboxed Raybestos. Fleabay shipping is all over the place for decent used- $75-+ plus shipping from $25-90 which I would reseal before install. Rock plays their games with different warehouses- but it ended up being $60 combined for these. I would prefer oem, but I hope calipers are basic enough for new aftermarket to get right with no issues- its a chance every time to buy this stuff accross the border- but it's this or $800 at the stealship. Also our $ has taken a hit over the last few months.
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I have new raybestos calipers in front and reman API’s in rear. Been about 2 years or so and about 25-30k. So far so good. I couldn’t tell you how many rear calipers I went through on my 7th gen.


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Received the Raybestos/chinesium calipers in a timely manner. Stripped all the china hardware off in favor of whatever jap hardware would still work, sliders are still lubed and free. In the back of my mind there was a hope that Raybestos had an agreement with NOS Nissin hardware- it's happened before for me, but no such luck today. Pulled the rear lever seal to see why these are such a problem- and no surprise, what a POS seal design. I cut a piece of felt and oil impregnated it and packed the cavities with marine grease- I hope this will give a few more years of service. So they went on with a little drama and will need to re/re console to adjust parking brake lever travel. Should be interesting to pull apart old calipers to rebuild.

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I’m on my 3rd or 4th set of rear calipers. They don’t like the salt.
I’m on my 3rd or 4th set of rear calipers. They don’t like the salt.
Nothing likes salt- but as soon as I saw this design, I knew I was in for problems, Too bad it cannot be corrected after the fact. Since I purchased new Raybestos calipers with no core charges I will build and keep a spare pair on the shelf.
Nothing likes salt- but as soon as I saw this design, I knew I was in for problems, Too bad it cannot be corrected after the fact. Since I purchased new Raybestos calipers with no core charges I will build and keep a spare pair on the shelf.
I went through my paperwork and the car has had 4 left side calipers and 5 right side calipers. The Napa warranty has paid for itself, even paid for a tow when one of the calipers locked up on the highway 60 KM from home. I have to get my car inspected this month and I expect them to be gone again. People say you can’t smell a picture but any car guy can smell this 😂
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When I had the drivers side replaced under warranty- I had them replace the rotor too as the anti corrosion coating had burned off. I wash the wheel well area every spring when I do seasonal tire change over- you'd be surprised at the amount of sand/salt that washes out, I will pay particular attention to the back of the calipers now. Hopefully with liberal application of silicone grease mine will last a few more years, mines a 2015 with 70k km's and calipers have been change once for failure (and drivers side side...just because I had a new pair).
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