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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All!

I have a 99 Accord that is either going to get scrapped or get a replacement engine. With dead fuel injectors, bad rings, a crank-shaft pulley that just snapped it's key and possibly it's timing belt, the engine has to come out anyway.

Looking around online, a lot of used engines come with a transmission still attached. New long-block engines typically don't. My Accord is a stick shift, and it has to stay that way.

Question is: If I buy a used engine mated to an automatic, what would I need to do to swap the tranny and use my existing manual transmission? Is it a mostly 'plug-and-play' job, or is this engine somehow shaped from the factory to only accept one type?

Engine is a F23A1, and due to California smog laws, that's exactly what has to go back into it.

Thanks for your thoughts!
 

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Hi All!

I have a 99 Accord that is either going to get scrapped or get a replacement engine. With dead fuel injectors, bad rings, a crank-shaft pulley that just snapped it's key and possibly it's timing belt, the engine has to come out anyway.

Looking around online, a lot of used engines come with a transmission still attached. New long-block engines typically don't. My Accord is a stick shift, and it has to stay that way.

Question is: If I buy a used engine mated to an automatic, what would I need to do to swap the tranny and use my existing manual transmission? Is it a mostly 'plug-and-play' job, or is this engine somehow shaped from the factory to only accept one type?

Engine is a F23A1, and due to California smog laws, that's exactly what has to go back into it.

Thanks for your thoughts!
I have been working at my honda dealer for 9 years now. I have never seen a used motor come with a trany. Not to mention i do ring jobs all the time without removing the motor. But that year vehicle your better off with a used motor anyway. Just make sure you get it from a reputable place. Call a local dealer and ask who they use.

As far as plug and play, they typically are. However most come with fuel lines, coolant lines, and harnesses cut for easy removal. I have seen some come with wiring harnesses in tact, however its our shop policy to relplace that harness with the existing one, cause some of the used parts have been in an accident and can have wiring damage that you cant see, which results in crazy problems that are both hard to find and hard to fix. The harness is also a bitch to replace once in the car.

If you find a place that will give you a trany with the motor, an auto wouldnt be plug and play as the harnesses are completely different. the harness and ECU would be meant to accommodate the automatic for solenoids, pressure switches, range switch, ect.

As always, order your parts BY THE VIN!!! good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, CRMPLEX!

On all the ads that I see on dismantler/distributor websites, it is at least noting if the engine was originally hooked up to an automatic or a manual.

Just to be clear, you're saying that I have to find an engine that was originally hooked up to a manual, or the wiring just won't work, correct? The wiring harness connections on an engine originally connected to an automatic will never match the harness my car has, right?

Whatever engine I get, I plan on replacing the timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, as well as the clutch while the whole thing is out of the car. Is there anything else you'd recommend changing?

Sorry for the amateur questions - I've only ever worked on F-series trucks from the 80's - those must be one of the simplest vehicles made! This is just a little over my head, I think, but I'll be good once I get in there.

Thanks again!
 

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your very welcome! as far as anything else to replace, i have had older used engine have IAC problems after the install. Iv never looked into why, but i have had idle issues and have had to replace the IAC valve after installed a used unit.

Does it matter what the engine was mated to? I dont know the answer to that. I know that my particular year make and model it DOES. My engine is the J35Z3, where as the other honda V6's are the J35Z1, and J35Z2. I know the compression ratios are different, I dont have VCM, (which changes the entire valve train and head assembly) and there could be more differences but im not sure. My point is it may or may not matter for your application. Thats why i always get parts by the VIN.

All of your questions are REALLY GOOD QUESTIONS! So keep asking them cause it could save the job! Im sorry i cant answer them all. You should have a long chat with the person you are buying the assembly from before you purchase anything.

best of luck and let us know how you make out!
 
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