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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rebuilding my 04 v6 accords BAYA trans; currently like an idiot I chained up the transmission and and engine as a unit thinking that little tab near the drivers side was connected to the engine only. I have identified the right most hoist loop on the engine but cannot for the life of me find a reasonable spot to attach to the inboard side of the engine and have searched the forum looking for information and failed to come across a good anchor point. Anyone might have a picture or advice as to where to attach the engine beam to the engine only?
 

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The service manual says to leave the passenger side motor mount connected, and connect the engine support to the sides of the two cylinder heads.

Same idea for the 4-cyl, except there's a special bracket that bolts to the cylinder head.

In either case, if a generic engine support won't work the way the service manual wants it to, you'll have to get creative with where you connect the chain.
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The service manual says to leave the passenger side motor mount connected, and connect the engine support to the sides of the two cylinder heads.

Same idea for the 4-cyl, except there's a special bracket that bolts to the cylinder head.

In either case, if a generic engine support won't work the way the service manual wants it to, you'll have to get creative with where you connect the chain.
Thank you for this! I hate to be that bum but I gotta ask… wouldn’t happen to have a digital copy of that manual readily available would you?

this looks like it could work perfectly as long as that bolt hole is on my vehicle; haven’t made it out today due to weather. Thanks very much again
 

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Why would you rebuild the engine if it's still good? The only things you need to do on the J-series engine is resealing the oil pump and change out the seals. There is a guy here with over 800k miles on his original engine.
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
because I can’t leave well enough alone and I have no clue about what actual maintenance concerns and reliability is on these engines. 224k, new seals, valve lash adjustment, valve lapping, new rings and some honing seems reasonable to me but I’m not familiar with these engines have yet to do a compression test or check timing belt and tensioner. I have an odd oil leak of REALLY clean oil that I suspect may be the tensioner but right now I’m on transmission. I’ve stalked your posts and read most of the critical component threads you have both started and commented on and you seem like a guy who thoroughly enjoys the vehicle and wants to make it last. I like Honda products but only have limited experience with their motorcycles (the years I owned they were a different co. pretty sure) and one 92 civic hatch back that was AWESOME. I like this vehicle style, interior comfort, features, won’t lie wish it was a 4 cyl but having some umph when I need/ want it would be nice. I like this car; I bought it with 224k on the dash knowing the transmission needed replaced and gleaned enough info from this site to know a TC as well. I want to get another 200k out of it…. wouldn’t you?
 

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You can click on the link in my signature to read about my car's story. I didn't even register on here and start writing about it until a couple of years ago when it had just under 600k on it.

My recommendation is if it's not broke, don't mess with it. I'm currently at 876k and I have had ZERO internal engine work. Never had the valves adjusted. The oil pan and valve cover gaskets have been replaced. All other engine related repairs have been sensors or accessories. I change timing belts on time. The car doesn't smoke. I run Mobil 1 5w-20 and change it every 15k whether it needs it or not.

Unless your engine already has problems and has been neglected, you shouldn't need to do any of those big repairs you mentioned.
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
this is why I love auto forums.. to see those who go the distance and understand how to get there myself. My only reason for wanting to do those things I mentioned was for a tabula rasa. I don’t know how well the vehicle was kept before I got it. The man seemed to be up on his maintenance and had some new parts installed and sat this car perelli tires (sp?) but it could be lipstick and rouge. I would LOVE to do the minimum to keep this car on the road for the next 1/4 million miles, but at the same time i am willing to go the length to get there. I already sent tranny to black stone which should give me a good idea how the rest of the car was kept, next is oil after the reinstall, and from there I am monitoring my own vehicle and not someone else’s past. I will THOROUGHLY look through you and your cars story tomorrow and I have no doubt that I will gain an incredible insight into what I can expect from and what I can expect to put into this vehicle. Honestly it’s been awhile since I’ve owned a v6 and somewhat frustrating at odd moments, but I’m excited and motivated as long as my oxyaceitaminophinalyne torch (cures the headaches ;) ) can help me get this absurdly designed exhaust loose or I will hack it off to drop the sub frame and mend it back together when the time comes. Honestly… I’m just happy for the banter to talk to someone about what this vehicle is, what I’m doing to it and what it can be. Big nerd here, and nice to meet others that share an interest in this vehicle. You all motivate me to take better care of my cars.

You can click on the link in my signature to read about my car's story. I didn't even register on here and start writing about it until a couple of years ago when it had just under 600k on it.

My recommendation is if it's not broke, don't mess with it. I'm currently at 876k and I have had ZERO internal engine work. Never had the valves adjusted. The oil pan and valve cover gaskets have been replaced. All other engine related repairs have been sensors or accessories. I change timing belts on time. The car doesn't smoke. I run Mobil 1 5w-20 and change it every 15k whether it needs it or not.

Unless your engine already has problems and has been neglected, you shouldn't need to do any of those big repairs you mentioned.
And I quote “RIP OEM alternator at 622,372 miles. You've served me well.”

your post may be the best thing I’ve read in a while concerning quality engineering. I’m hooked already even though I promised not to even look at it tonight… must sleep sometime though.

Thank you @TX Accord and @t-rd and @derass
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Post pictures here and I'll be able to tell you the source of the leak.
Awesome! will do when I get back to the car. THANK YOU!

from left to right; mystery fluid, power steering from the resivior, engine oil from the dipstick
Wood Natural material Terrestrial plant Grass Plant


pictures are from around the oil pan, the filter and housing. It seems to be gathering around the right side bottom of the oil pan.

front view of right side oil pan
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Filter area
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filter housing
Light Automotive tire Black Gas Engineering


back of oil pan
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Right side oil pan (where it is most prevalent; a sheet of cardboard would have drips from there on it)
Water Automotive tire Wood Terrestrial plant Bumper


Front oil pan
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Left side oil pan view
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive wheel system Gas Automotive exterior


to me I looks like valve cover gaskets need redone along with oil pan and a possible ps leak somewhere but I cannot get over how clean this oil is compared to the ps fluid and engine oil.

I’m also stuck on removing the passenger side cv joint. Is there a snap ring I’m not seeing either at the trans or carrier bearing? Left side axel showing so deterioration at the outer boot which I may try a split boot if those are still in existence.

happy Thanksgiving all and thank you for your insights.
 

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You have your work cut out for you, that's a multi-combo leak you got there. Leak at the passenger side and front of the oil pan is from the oil pump and possibly crank seal. Leak near the passenger rear side of the oil pan is VTEC solenoid or oil filter housing gasket + oil pump leak. The clear green/blue watery looking fluid is coolant leak from the water pump. The work will involve you taking off the exhaust, oil pan then oil pump. If it's the valve cover gaskets, it is obvious, you would see oil on top of the 2 cat converters.

See my thread when I did everything at 300k miles:
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
impressive eye sir! I have read that thread you posted and noticed there are some counterfeit water pump timing belt, tensioner and pulley assemblies out there floating around and only certain oe suppliers proved worthy of your mention; Aisin if I remember? The work itself is not bad just time consuming as exhaust is already removed and most of anything that may be in my way (sub frame is down, suspension is off etc..) Is there an issue of the sealant curing in cold weather? Letting cure for time is not an issue for me right now but temperature is. If the aftermarket makes a gasket for the oil pan would you be reluctant to use it? I really don’t have a lot of experience in using permatex cept anti seize and I have read of a few people who woed the placing and torquing of the oil pan. Thank you again, hope you had a good thanksgiving sir

If anybody out there is wondering how I ended up supporting the engine this is how I did it

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive lighting

Bad picture but thanks to @derass and the others I located the two bolts at the extremes right below the valve covers and used two chain links and with some odd routing successfully mounted the chain to the beam. This is NOT the correct way to do this. Do not repeat this procedure.Currently engine and tranny are only supported by right motor mount, the beam rig and a hydraulic jack from underneath the tranny as the subframe is no longer attached nor any motor or transmission mount(less the right side). If you attempt anything like this it require two beams (special order Honda tools and such) perpendicular to each other or an engine hoist(the RIGHT way to do it) and what ever support means for the transmission pending your application.
 
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