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EX-L replacing stock sub with no wiring?

5115 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ousooner2
I have an EX-L and I hate the audio system that came with the car. I have already upgraded the front and rear 6 inch speakers with aftermarkets. I want to upgrade the subwoofer but I want to make it as simple as possible. Can I just replace the stock subwoofer with an aftermarket one whileusing the stock wiring ? I am trying to prevent having to do additional wiring.
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I have an EX-L and I hate the audio system that came with the car. I have already upgraded the front and rear 6 inch speakers with aftermarkets. I want to upgrade the subwoofer but I want to make it as simple as possible. Can I just replace the stock subwoofer with an aftermarket one whileusing the stock wiring ? I am trying to prevent having to do additional wiring.
If you replace the sub you are going to want to use an aftermarket amp. The stock amp will not move an aftermarket sub to make an ounce of improvement, infact you may lose volume.

So, install an amp that will accept High Level Inputs, tap into the stock wire in the trunk and then try driving the stock sub first. That may give you what you are looking for.

The stock sub in our odyssey is disapointing at best. I think it has the same power going to it as the full range speakers, just with the mids and lowes crossed out.

Jay
There is a lot more to just replacing a driver than finding one that fits. The factory driver, although I don't know for sure, is likely a high sensitivity/low excursion 'midwoofer'. The power sent to it is likely 40-50 watts at best. You're going to have to find a speaker that has roughly the same or higher sensitivity, more xmax/xmech, works well IB, works well up to 110-120hz or wherever the stock x-over is (not sure of the slope on factory 'sub' either; someone want to chime in with these #'s?), etc etc. AND you're going to have to worry about resonance from the flimsy metal deck, which as you would guess isn't the best place to have something that plays mid to sub frequencies. Not without being heavily reinforced at least.


Your best bet is to save a little and have it installed, since it seems you don't want to mess with anything. A simple sub/amp install can be extremely non-intrusive, simple and relatively cheap if you know what you're doing. Don't buy something that needs a large box. Be smart about how you build a box or what box you're purchasing as most don't build them with regards to maximizing trunk space. There are PLENTY of different cheap setups that will give you, at least what I think you would see as more than enough output and sound decent doing it. You don't need to spend $800 to get something like this. Not even close. Shop around for prices on install (tell them you have the gear; just say sub/amp install).
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People with the 8th gens were putting in the JL 8W3V 8 inch sub into the stock sub space, which appear to be the same size as the 9th gen. Some sheet metal cutting was still required but minimal, and the shallow depth isn't much more than the stock unit - I'm guessing that's your main concern with not wanting to take up precious cargo space so look into this.

It will need an amp regardless. Wiring the amp should not be too bad because there's a factory grommet through the firewall so no need to drill holes. You could mount the amp in the trunk and clip onto the existing high-level wires for the sub. Honestly, shouldn't take any considerable amount of time to get it wired up.
Nice work. Looks like a pretty good sized box! What are you going to use?
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