Honda Accord Forums - The DriveAccord community is where Honda Accord 2003+ owners can discuss reviews, service, parts, and share mods. banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

jeremyp969

· Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Reaction score
13
Discussion starter · #1 ·
2013 Accord I4 EX-L

I've never had a Honda that has oil loss until this car, but this car started around 60k(currently have around 120k), so I was tracking the loss. Since 60k it's been about 1 quart every 3k miles. Recently I was reading people saying that a bad PCV valve can cause oil loss - so about 2 weeks ago I replaced the PCV valve and serpentine belt(both were the originals for the car). Both the belt and the PCV were Honda parts. At about the same time I also replaced the tires. Since then I've seen the oil loss go up significantly(1 qt per 500 miles) and my MPG go down by about 10%. The reason I mentioned the tires is because that could be to blame for the MPG. I looked around the engine and under the car and don't see any oil leaks, so I'm guessing it's being burned.

Today I switched back to the old PCV valve since I still had it, to see if the oil loss would decrease again, but I obviously need to wait a week or so to see. Anyone have any thoughts? Probably bad PCV valve?

Thanks!
 
It's possible. The tires probably caused your MPG loss.
Where did you get the PCV valve from? Lots of fake parts out there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WiiMaster
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Got it from Amazon, says Honda genuine and came in a Honda bag/wrapper. But could be fake I guess.
 
Amazon and eBay are especially known for counterfeit Honda parts. Especially timing belt kits, but I don't see why it couldn't happen for other parts.
 
owns 2012 Honda Accord EX-L V6
  • Like
Reactions: Hudouc and Cepega
what did the PCV cost? that "might" indicate a low quality part.

Take the PCV out and rattle it.
If there is no rattle than the plunger may be stuck closed increasing the pressure in the engine.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
what did the PCV cost? that "might" indicate a low quality part.

Take the PCV out and rattle it.
If there is no rattle than the plunger may be stuck closed increasing the pressure in the engine.
So I switched back to the old one and the oil loss went away. It was $30 on amazon which I believe is around what Honda charges for it.
 
If I wanted Genuine Honda parts, I’d buy from my local dealership or I’d make sure my online source was from a parts store inside a dealership. Simply scroll down to the bottom of the web page to “about us” where you can usually find an address. Search the address and see if it’s a dealership versus a mailbox store. Really, we should ask ourselves, How does Genuine Honda parts or fluids end up on a website like fleabay or spamazon? Is this a reliable channel for genuine parts?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cepega
I had EXCESSIVE oil loss nearly 2 quart when I did a change. I looked it up and found it was likely the PCV. I changed the PCV valve its right as rain and back to using less than .5 between changes. The old valve got stuck. A quick way to tell is take off the one you have on and shake it. If it doesn't rattle it's bad and the valve is not opening and relieving pressure causing oil seepage.

Go to a dealer and get it. They are like 25 bucks max so there is no not a lot of savings to be had. If you really want to rock auto is pretty good and sourcing real parts. But I'd go, dealer, as the excess pressure can cause all kinds of seal and gasket damage.
 
A clogged pcv valve can even be the cause of a blown head gasket. Just because the valve rattles (which means it isn't clogged up) the spring could also be stretched out. I have always replaced the valve every 60K with a Beck Arnley or a Standard Motor Products one, about $10 ea.
 
I'm thinking you got a bogus OEM part or it was a bad one..
Just replaced my PCV valve in my '14 EX-L(I'm the second owner) and I believe the old one had caused the consumption.
It might have even been the original.
Drove over 1200 miles with little or no level drop on the dipstick...and I'm doing 70 MPH every day on my commute.
 
Just a thought, has anyone tried to soak old pcb (pcv - did I mention that I hate autocorrect) valve in some fluid like brake fluid or diesel, kerosene to break up the gunk and then reuse the valve ?

I'll install a new one into 9th gen and transfer old one to 7th as it only has less than 30k on it. 7th gen won't be driven much in winter I think, but we'll see.
 
Just a thought, has anyone tried to soak old pcb (pcv - did I mention that I hate autocorrect) valve in some fluid like brake fluid or diesel, kerosene to break up the gunk and then reuse the valve ?

I'll install a new one into 9th gen and transfer old one to 7th as it only has less than 30k on it. 7th gen won't be driven much in winter I think, but we'll see.
yes, I use Gumout/CRC/ what-have-you carb cleaner (any cleaner really will work as well as TB cleaner) and spray it into the PCV with some force and let it soak.

I wouldn't use brake cleaner with the o-rings installed and they are removable/replaceable anyway.

Soak it for a few minutes if not TOO gunked and up to 30 minutes if jammed real good. Check it by rattling it. It'll get you by for a while until you can get a new/fresh PCV.

The spring force is also a concern as @KW2004Accord posted. Remember that spring is pulsing as much as the pistons are firing so eventually that spring will relax. Both the heat and fatiguing of the spring will weaken the spring and cause vacuum loss due to improper seating of the plunger.

It's truly amazing how much that little 26$ piece can affect if it's not operating properly.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts