[drowned12]

The resonator on the 8th gen is 1 piece that conforms to the bumper. Top end goes to the airbox with a rubber coupler, left end goes to the breather pipe that goes under the battery tray, behind the radiator, and up to the hood latch.

Thus far I've only had to do 1 pipe cut and I'm about ready to button everything up. Need to apply some hotglue to the ziptie to keep the pipe from sliding around.

Here's some right-now-my-car-looks-like pics...yes I took the bumper off without jacking up the front:

Manipulating the angles a bit with the couplers. Oh yeah I had to cut a 2" length of pipe to extend the 90 degree bend leg a little. Plus gives me more angle wiggle room:



Top part done, 90 degree bend around bumper frame done.



Resonator:



60 degree pipe, had to cut 2" off the leg closest to the camera



Tucked in nice and tight



Blox composite velocity stack. Nice distance from the condenser. Zip tie isn't 100% needed, but it's polypropylene so it won't get brittle and it keeps things from moving around. would prefer a metal bracket but oh well.

 

[drowned12]

OK everything is buttoned back up. Ready for test drive. Ended up using hot glue and a hose clamp to keep the zip tie from sliding. Total time start to end: 4 hours.

 

[drowned12]

Its pretty much as quiet as stock. New record for 0-60 time though. 3/4 tank of gas (adds weight) and I got 8.335s 0-60 according to the KTuner datalog. Scantool is telling me 1145 cfm of airflow at redline (7500 rpm) which is about where it should be. Intake air temps are slightly higher (3F) that CAIv1. Overall: loves it.

I can see though when the airbox is heatsoaked. V1 has the advantage of not having a bunch of thermal mass to hold heat.

 

[Edaccord08]

only downside is possible debris getting into lower airbox over time w/o some kind of screen/filter by inlet .

 

[drowned12]

only downside is possible debris getting into lower airbox over time w/o some kind of screen/filter by inlet .

I've seen thish happen even with the OEM intake...leaves in the pre-filtered section of the airbox.


Due diligence I want to try a regular panel filter vs. my AFe drop in filter. One might create less air churn than the other and keep intake temps a tiny bit lower. I'm noticing when moving my air temps sit about 10F above ambient now. Not as good as CAIv1, but better than OEM. Also ordered another 60 degree pipe so I can cut it up to fit the cone filter. I really want to see if the panel filter causes air to sit in the airbox just enough to warm it up. Need a second pipe though because it will have to be cut shorter to accommodate the cone filter (from CAIv1) that's longer than the velocity stack.

 

[outersquare]

if you're bored, I suggest trying a K&N drop in also. I had an AFE originally but the K&N seems to rev more freely. Probably not unexpected since cotton gauze filters have a rep for poor filtering.

 

[drowned12]

if you're bored, I suggest trying a K&N drop in also. I had an AFE originally but the K&N seems to rev more freely. Probably not unexpected since cotton gauze filters have a rep for poor filtering.

I'm not a fan of oiled filters, plus they're $$$.

I did order one of these though:


I've been seeing some temperature fluctuations that indicate both CAIv1 and CAIv2 are pulling heat still from the condenser/radiator. I think that should help in either case. Wish it wasn't such a PITA to pull the bumper off.

And it's somewhat amusing I'm going through all this effort to get air intake temps down considering a) going into winter where the temps will be lower by default and b) I'm going turbo anyways where all the intake is going to be replaced.


Summary for anyone following:

OEM everything with drop in filter:

• Heatsoaks like crazy.
• Torque dip between 4500 and 5100rpm. Some sort of resonance that happens to kill power. (see "91 Octane Tune" link).
• Quiet

CAIv1:

• Full 3" duct from TB to bumper cone filter.
• Very loud. About the same as SRI in volume.
• Intake air temps very close to ambient temps (within a few degrees F).
• Mildly sketchy home made mounting system
• No power dip.

CAIv2:

• Airbox -> TB is OEM. Drop in AFe filter.
• Below airbox is 3" aluminum duct, some Spectre 3" PVC couplers, and a Blox 3" velocity stack.
• Quiet as OEM.
• Intake air temps are about +10F over ambient when cruising, +5F when full throttle.
• Heatsoak that is hard to shake once it happens (sitting for 10 minutes, driving for 5 minutes the IAT was still +20F)
• No power dip. OEM resonator to blame?

CAIv2a (planned):

• CAIv2 + OEM panel filter.

CAIv2b (planned):

• CAIv2 + cone filter, no filter in airbox (yes I cleaned the airbox already so there's no dirt in there). Also adding the universal heat shield mentioned above.

CAIv2a can be done tonight. CAIv2b is waiting on parts.

 

[Edaccord08]

"No power dip. OEM resonator to blame?"
So this is what your data shows, now no big dip in TQ at 5.2k point .
When you posted your graphs it looked like it might be VTEC tip in being to late but gen8 have one of lowest points so it was odd .

I wouldn't think it would make that big difference but you never know, its just like a muffler but on intake .
there also a very small plenum chamber on the intake pipe from MAS to TB on LX models . that probably doesn't help either .

 

[KTuner]

Torque was dropping even before VTEC and did not recover at the crossover. Moving it lower would not have helped. We will try again when he has his final setup. Also have a stock EX-L i4 with an intake coming in so we'll see if there's a dip on his setup too.

 

[Edaccord08]

Torque was dropping even before VTEC and did not recover at the crossover. Moving it lower would not have helped. We will try again when he has his final setup. Also have a stock EX-L i4 with an intake coming in so we'll see if there's a dip on his setup too.

right, the TQ should be dropping before VTEC crossover but should of shot up when engaged .
The low lift cams are running out of breath . I know you would of checked this first .

Looking at scale of graph and numbers it not to far off hondadata TSX graph and that is K24 with VTEC on both cams .

http://www.hondata.com/reflash_tsx_06.html

they tuned it to 4800 crossover

It could still be the LX exhaust even though cats are gone .

 

[drowned12]

So CAIv2a collides with this thread: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=246106 and looking at the temperatures there was no difference between 3 panel filters. Next up will be testing the aFe drop in filter vs. cone filter (CAIv2b).

 

[accord_J]

You should take that bend out where you put the velocity stack and face the stack forward so that the forward movement of the car forces the air in...

 

[drowned12]

You should take that bend out where you put the velocity stack and face the stack forward so that the forward movement of the car forces the air in...

The 60 degree bend has to be in there since I wanted to get the inlet pushed closer to the lower radiator opening in the bumper. There's not going to be as much fresh airflow if I were to move the inlet further back to the fenderwell.

Ironically though I think I have the inlet too far forward. It's rained for the past several hours here and with my car not even moving I can see some water specks on the velocity stack. Little bit scared to start the engine up but I think I'll give it a go...just let it idle until it's hot.

EDIT: It survived. Even went through the "bad" scenario in my head of being in front of a car on the freeway kicking up tons of mist. Panel filter was a little bit damp but not soaked.

Storms that flooded several Phoenix-area freeways and numerous local streets during the Monday morning commute set an all-time record for rainfall in Phoenix in a single day.

 

[drowned12]

CAIv2b going in tonight. Would have gone in last night but I didn't plan on the exhaust shop taking so long and didn't get home until 7 or 8pm. Also bought the injen water shield sock thing just to be on the safe side. Hopefully last time I have to pull the bumper off...such a pain getting the clips to go back through all the layers of plastic they need to go through.

 

[drowned12]

So everything is in and done. Didn't have time to take pics. Because the cone filter is longer than the velocity stack, I had to trim down the 60 degree bend leg as planned by about 4 inches to keep the overall length of the pipe + filter = pipe + velocity stack. I then gutted a Fram panel filter because the airbox leaking sounded like a turbo spooling up without having any sort of gasket there to seal it (yes it sounded cool). Fram really put those things together well and it took me 30 minutes with an air grinder to cut the pleats out. The remaining hole is way bigger than the cross section of the 3" intake pipe so I'm not concerned with it restricting airflow.

I ended up not using the heatshield thing because I was concerned about it restricting airflow into the filter.

In case anyone wants to build what I did, parts listing (in order they appear)

• Cone filter: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afe-21-30018/overview/
• Water shield:
• 60 degree bend: . Cutting these requires a miter saw (I used this) or some sort of power saw (band saw would prob work). Cut 2.25" off one leg, 4.75" off the other. You pretty much have to treat aluminum like wood because of how soft it is. Cutoff wheels/chop saws won't work on aluminum.
• 2x couplers: . One connects the 90 degree elbow to the 60 degree elbow, the other extends one leg of the 90 degree elbow.
• 90 degree elbow: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-2176
• Use the 2.25" length cut off the angled pipe to extend the 90 degree elbow -> 3.5 to 3 reducer. Finagle the angles to clear the frame. Pic up in this thread shows what I did.
• 3.5 to 3 reducer:
• Lined hose clamps (don't tear into couplers):
• Gut one of these to seal the airbox halves:
  . Dremel cutting wheel, air grinder, box cutter, whatever you need to do to cut out all the filter media.
• 2x strung together giant cable ties to tie the cone filter base to the (metal) bumper bar: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/1529/=to7cus item #70215K67

 

[ThatsABigOne]

Thank you drowned. I am planning something similar for my 9th gen accord as 8th and 9th gens are very similar.

 

[Gofasterplease]

Wow. This is all interesting. Let me ask you, whats the restriction in the resonator? Like what does it look like? Thanks. And I applaud your efforts in getting cooler air into this platform

 

[drowned12]

Wow. This is all interesting. Let me ask you, whats the restriction in the resonator? Like what does it look like? Thanks. And I applaud your efforts in getting cooler air into this platform

3rd pic in post #21 is the resonator that tucks in the bumper corner. I don't like that the breather tube runs right behind the radiator where it can pick up a lot of heat. I don't think it adds much restriction since Honda probably made sure it wouldn't.

Just adapting a pipe to the bottom of the airbox and getting it near the lower grille made it so today with 81F ambient my IAT was only 86-91F. I know it's literally a cold air intake because I see the temperature drop with more throttle and more air getting straight to the intake manifold.

 

[Gofasterplease]

I see. Well your certainly dedicated to making this happen witch is awesome. Now have you thought about trying to fab some sort of RAM air setup? I just have a really good feeling about it. With all the time and effort you've put into the current setup, there has to be a way to direct a pipe or inlet towards that filter to maximize what you've done already. I've been driving around in different temps lately with my dyno tune, and it's just unreal how much the car suffers in performance once the temps start to rise. Sucks balls.

 

[Farmanz79]

Nice DIY thread Drowned! Agree w/ Gofasterpls....Since you mentioned the crazy high IAT's, I've been paying close attention to my IAT over the last few days....on the cooler days/nights (60-75F ambient temp), the car really comes alive and feels amazing to drive, but on the warmer days, the IAT does indeed get way too hot (especially after allowing the car to idle for sometime, in between driving).
When the IAT temps get above 110F, then the car starts to feel really sluggish IMO....it starts to bog under any type of load (part or full) and feels even less powerful than before running any basemaps....really dreading the hot weather and finding i'm paying a lot more attention to the daily weather now
I'm with Gofasterpls....a functional ram air/icebox may end up becoming a necessity for those fully bolted and tuned, especially if they live in a state that gets insanely hot during the summer months....guess we may end up being the bolted/tuned guinea pigs for finding a reliable solution to combat the the high temps.....