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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here are the parts I've decided on for my suspension/steering replacement, I've tried my best to connect the pieces in written form to help anybody whos confused and researching. Also let me know if you have any suggestions! I am doing everything at once so I'm going to go ahead and just go for the best of what I can. All OEM Honda parts I'm buying are from HONDAPARTSNOW. I will let you know if I'm buying from anywhere else.

(1) TL-S 2007 Front Sway Bar Links 27mm #51300-SEP-A21 from ACURAPARTSHQ

(2) OEM Honda End Links - #06523-S84-A00 (Stabilizer kit with new self locking bolts. 2 end links in each set so I am buying 2 sets. It doesn't specify if it's for front or rear so I'm guessing it doesn't matter.)
I was told that people who switch to the TL-S sway bars usually buy them as they come with end links as well. That or it's just because they pair great with matching Acura end links. let me know if this Honda end link choice is a mistake please!

Ended up switching to Acura links as apparently there have been issues with clunking and other various problems when using Honda end links and switching to TL sway bars.
(2) End Links Used -
Link, L Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52325-SDA-A01
Link, R Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52320-SDA-A01
Link, L Front Stabilizer Acura - #51321-SEP-A01
Link, R Front Stabilizer Acura - #51320-SEP-A01


(3) Progress Rear Sway Bar Kit - 22mm ES#3551109 (Comes with 2 holder brush and brackets) ECSTUNING
I was going to get a 20mm TL-S 2007 rear sway bar, but I have just read from people who switched to the 22mm progress sway bar that the car plants to the ground better with it.


Ending up switching to a matching Acura 20MM TL 2007 rear sway bar. Just because this is gonna be my daily and apparently, according to some opinions, I'll barely notice the difference between 22mm and 20mm. Here are the parts from ACURAPARTSHQ, ACURAPARTSWAREHOUSE and HONDAPARTSNOW:
Spring, Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52300-SEP-A11
Honda Holder, Stabilizer Bush - #52308-S3M-A00
Acura Rear Suspension Stabilizer Bar - #52306-SEP-A11


(4) Tien Flex Z Coil Overs - REDLINE360

(4.1) 03-07 Godspeed front and Spec-D rear camber arms? Is that a good choice here? Not doing camber kits unless I end up needing them after all of this, opinions vary and it seems you might not need them if you're doing what I'm doing. Even if you lower your car up to an inch. I don't know much, but it might not wear your tires out too bad without camber kits if the alignment is somewhat in spec.

My main goal for this is just to have a better time steering and to start my 7th gen build. I know oversteering could be really bad in a forward drive car like this so I am going to try to avoid that. Just want a more neutral steering and not trying to sacrifice too much comfort for handling... not a racer just want a nice build on my daily driver accord. Anybody's $.02 is appreciated on anything in this post!
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(5) OEM Honda Rack and Front Pinions - #53601-SDB-A11 (My power steering fluid has been leaking for a while now! Right under my rack is power steering fluid that's leaking everywhere. And it's been more than a year I'm sure. This rack is often out of stock. Probably due to the leaking issues.) Costs 700$ for a new one OEM... Don't know if buying an aftermarket rack is a good idea! Bought from Hondacarpartsdirect
Tie Rod Inner #53010-SDB-A01 + Washer #90301-SDB-A01
Tie Rod End R #53540-SDA-A01 + Boot #53546-S84-003
Tie Rod End L #53560-SDA-A01 +Boot #53546-S84-003
End Washer #94030-10080

Pin Split #94201-20350

(6) CV AXLES -
Left #44305-SDB-A00
Right #44306-SDD-A00 REPLACED BY 44305-SDD-A00


(7) Front Shock Absorber -
Fork, L. FR. Shock Absorber #51821-SDA-A00
Fork, R. FR. Shock Absorber #51811-SDA-A00

x2 Shock Absorber Bolt #90121-SM4-010
x2 Shock Absorber Nut #90215-SB0-003
x2 Shock Absorber Lock Bolt #90117-SM4-003


(8) OEM Honda Front Lower Control Arms -
L Front (Lower) - Honda #51360-SDB-A10
R Front (Lower) - Honda #51350-SDB-A10


9) OEM Honda Front Upper Control Arms -
L #51460-SDA-A13
R #51450-SDA-A13
Circlip #52338-SL0-003


(10) OEM Honda Front Ball Joint - (Included with upper control arms I believe. No need to buy these if you buy the whole arm)
#51464-S04-013
Lower Boot #51225-SL5-003

Upper Boot #51464-S04-013
Lower Circlip #52226-SL0-003

(11) OEM Honda Rear Lower Ball Joints - Doesn't exist Lol

(112) OEM Honda Rear Lower Control Arms - Mine are busted up from some kind of accident so I'm replacing them.
2x RR LOWER #52350-SDA-A00

2xWASHER #52364-SDA-A00

(13) OEM Honda Rear Higher Control Arms - Mine are busted up from some kind of accident so I'm replacing them.
2x Rear Upper Control #52360-SDA-A00

2x RUC Nut #90216-SE0-010
2x RUC Washer #52388-SDA-A00
2x RUC Bolt #52387-SDA-A00
2x Other End RUC Nut #90215-SB0-003 (same nut used for rear lower arm, connects into knuckle by screwing using the other end)
2x Other End RUC Washer #52364-SDA-A00

2x Rear Upper Arm 2 #52390-SDB-A01
2x Rear upper 2 Bolt #90184-SDA-A00 (Same bolt that's used for rear lower trailing arms. Need one for each arm. 4 in total if you are purchasing this whole list. 2 in total if you're just replacing both upper arm 2)

(14) Rear Knuckles -
Left #52215-SDA-A50
Right #52210-SDA-A50
4xBUSHING
#52365-SM4-004 (COMES WITH KNUCKLES)
2xWASHER #52364-SDA-A00 (Same washer as rear lower control arms because it connects here. Only two needed total. one for each knuckle.)
2x Bolt for the rear stabilizers #93401-10020-08


(15) OEM Honda Rear Trailing Arms -
L #52375-SDA-A60
RR #52370-SDA-A60

2x Trailing Arm Bolt #90181-S84-A00

(16) OEM Honda Rear Lower Trailing Arms -
2x #52350-SDA-A00
2x Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bolt #90184-SDA-A00
(Same bolt that's used for rear upper arm 2, one for each. two total.)


(17) Rear Upper Leading Arm -
2x #52380-SEP-A02

2x Trailing Arm Bolt #90181-S84-A00

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I've also decided to replace my Rotors, Calipers, and break pads:
(18) Rotors:
2x EBC Brakes BSD V Slot Blade High Carbon Disc Brake Rotors, 2-Wheel Set SKU: EBC-BSD7116
2x EBC Brakes BSD V Slot Blade High Carbon Disc Brake Rotors, 2-Wheel Set SKU: EBC-BSD7209

(19) Calipers:
4x PowerStop Autospecialty Stock Replacement Brake Caliper with Bracket SKU: PST-L2669

(20) Break Pads:
4x Wagner Brake ThermoQuiet QC465A Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set


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Well, I know this post probably has need for speed written all over it, but be easy on me. And if you can educate me about all of this and cars in general, please do. I can definitely read the image charts on hondapartsnow website to see if I'm missing any screws or bolts and whatnot. But I might be missing things because again, I'm just new to this. I'm trying to learn more about cars and work on mine as a project, I drive well and handle well. I just don't know much about car parts except for basic stuffs and changing my own tie rods before. I think I'd love working on my car as I do with computers and my accord seems to be the perfect start for me. I can generally learn quick and have the necessary tools, or If not I can get them! Besides a mini lift for the engine. Hope I made this easy to read. Thanks.
 

· Prefers to shift his own gears
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Honda online discount sites will mark a part as discontinued when it's on backorder. I just went thru that with my power steering rack order. Rather than say backorder on site, allow people to buy it, and have to refund and cancel the order - they just mark it as discontinued.

For the lower control arms, the verbiage on the site is ARM, L. FR (LOWER)
My part numbers for lower control arms are:
51350-SDB-A00 for right side and 51360-SDB-A00 for left side.

Are you sure you need all of those rear trailing arms? A lot of those basically don't go bad. The part in the rear I've had to replace a couple times is the upper ball joint.
 

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Honda Accord LX 2007 Sedan
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Honda online discount sites will mark a part as discontinued when it's on backorder. I just went thru that with my power steering rack order. Rather than say backorder on site, allow people to buy it, and have to refund and cancel the order - they just mark it as discontinued.

For the lower control arms, the verbiage on the site is ARM, L. FR (LOWER)
My part numbers for lower control arms are:
51350-SDB-A00 for right side and 51360-SDB-A00 for left side.

Are you sure you need all of those rear trailing arms? A lot of those basically don't go bad. The part in the rear I've had to replace a couple times is the upper ball joint.
Honda online discount sites will mark a part as discontinued when it's on backorder. I just went thru that with my power steering rack order. Rather than say backorder on site, allow people to buy it, and have to refund and cancel the order - they just mark it as discontinued.

For the lower control arms, the verbiage on the site is ARM, L. FR (LOWER)
My part numbers for lower control arms are:
51350-SDB-A00 for right side and 51360-SDB-A00 for left side.

Are you sure you need all of those rear trailing arms? A lot of those basically don't go bad. The part in the rear I've had to replace a couple times is the upper ball joint.
My control arms and trailing arms are actually rusted and near to breaking believe it or not lol. But I’ll definitely take a look and make sure before I order any parts. Also is the rear upper ball joint the same part as #8? or is that just for the front? Is there a difference?
 

· Prefers to shift his own gears
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My control arms and trailing arms are actually rusted and near to breaking believe it or not lol. But I’ll definitely take a look and make sure before I order any parts. Also is the rear upper ball joint the same part as #8? or is that just for the front? Is there a difference?
Font Screenshot Parallel Brand Symbol


In the diagram for the rear suspension for my car, 8 looks like it sits next to this arm, but 8 is for the end link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In the diagram for the rear suspension for my car, 8 looks like it sits next to this arm, but 8 is for the end link.
Sorry! Think you misunderstood there, #8 in my post is the front ball joint. At the end of your first reply to this posting you said you replaced a upper ball joint in the rear but I wasn't finding anything like that, could you have meant the knuckles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That’s a big job you got planned out! Make sure you have torque specs handy too.

Will you be documenting your work?
I think I'll probably try yeah, planning to make this car last for a long time and work on it for its lifetime so it will be interesting to see how it ends up in a few decades from when I started working on it.(with luck nothing crazy happens knock on wood.)
 

· ziptie princess
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(2) OEM Honda End Links - #06523-S84-A00 (Stabilizer kit with new self locking bolts. 2 end links in each set so I am buying 2 sets. It doesn't specify if it's for front or rear so I'm guessing it doesn't matter.)
that's a hell of an assumption to make. maybe double-check that one.

also, look at the stickied tl sway bar thread; iirc there were reports of clunking caused by using the accord end links on the acura sway bar because the tl links have a larger diameter stud

the car plants to the ground better with it.
this is some toyota camry "grounded to the ground" nonsense.

(4.1) 03-07 Godspeed front and Spec-D rear camber arms? Is that a good choice here?
no. you don't need front camber adjustment and those brands are trash

(6) OEM Honda Front Lower Control Arms -
? No lower control arms I could find so I'm confused as to what's behind the distinction for "upper" front control arms.
Arm, L Front (Lower) - Honda (51360-SDA-A03)
Arm, R Front (Lower) - Honda (51350-SDA-A03)

(9) OEM Honda Rear Lower Ball Joints - Doesn't exist?

(11) OEM Honda Rear Higher Control Arms -
#52360-SDA-A00
(No right or left, just one higher control arm I'm guessing.)
multi-link rear suspension, no lower ball joint. upper control arms are the same on both sides and include the upper ball joint for the rear.

Well, I know this post probably has need for speed written all over it, [...] I drive well and handle well.
lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
that's a hell of an assumption to make. maybe double-check that one.

also, look at the stickied tl sway bar thread; iirc there were reports of clunking caused by using the accord end links on the acura sway bar because the tl links have a larger diameter stud


this is some toyota camry "grounded to the ground" nonsense.


no. you don't need front camber adjustment and those brands are trash


Arm, L Front (Lower) - Honda (51360-SDA-A03)
Arm, R Front (Lower) - Honda (51350-SDA-A03)


multi-link rear suspension, no lower ball joint. upper control arms are the same on both sides and include the upper ball joint for the rear.


lol
Lots of help thank you so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
multi-link rear suspension, no lower ball joint. upper control arms are the same on both sides and include the upper ball joint for the rear.
Currently looking at the diagram to figure out all the pieces, A little weird to read these things. As soon as I watch some videos of people doing it I'm sure I'll figure it out a lot better.
 

· Ken
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My 2 cents on the sway bars is just to go with the matching Acura set. For daily use, I doubt you'd notice a difference in handling characteristics between the thicker aftermarket bar. Especially for the price. End links, go with Acura parts also. Not only for compatibility concerns but because the Acura parts are thicker, to boot. Front and rear end links are different as are each side. You should have 4 separate part numbers, one for each end link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My 2 cents on the sway bars is just to go with the matching Acura set. For daily use, I doubt you'd notice a difference in handling characteristics between the thicker aftermarket bar. Especially for the price. End links, go with Acura parts also. Not only for compatibility concerns but because the Acura parts are thicker, to boot. Front and rear end links are different as are each side. You should have 4 separate part numbers for each end link.
Went ahead and changed my plans to do that. Thanks.
 

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+1 on skipping the camber kits. I have Tien Flex Z coilovers and the stock camber adjustment keeps the camber and toe just fine. Maybe get adjustable upper rear arms if you wanna lower it a lot.

As for the sway bars, I have a TL-S rear sway bar with a stock front sway bar. It’s probably a little twitchy for a daily driver, but it’s never given me trouble and I don’t wanna free the front sway bar.

You really don’t need all those rear control arms, they might look rusty but they’re almost certainly just fine.

as for something you do need, engine mounts, especially the front and side mounts. They’re relatively easy to replace, and the stock ones probably have gone bad by now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
+1 on skipping the camber kits. I have Tien Flex Z coilovers and the stock camber adjustment keeps the camber and toe just fine. Maybe get adjustable upper rear arms if you wanna lower it a lot.

As for the sway bars, I have a TL-S rear sway bar with a stock front sway bar. It’s probably a little twitchy for a daily driver, but it’s never given me trouble and I don’t wanna free the front sway bar.

You really don’t need all those rear control arms, they might look rusty but they’re almost certainly just fine.

as for something you do need, engine mounts, especially the front and side mounts. They’re relatively easy to replace, and the stock ones probably have gone bad by now.
Yeah already replaced my side engine mount when it went bad. I dont have an engine lift for the front so I'll need to get a mechanic to do it unfortunately. Likely I'll wait until I can get an mini lift myself and try and do that myself.

I'll keep that in mind about the rear control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
that's a hell of an assumption to make. maybe double-check that one
also, look at the stickied tl sway bar thread; iirc there were reports of clunking caused by using the accord end links on the acura sway bar because the tl links have a larger diameter stud
+1 on skipping the camber kits. I have Tien Flex Z coilovers and the stock camber adjustment keeps the camber and toe just fine. Maybe get adjustable upper rear arms if you wanna lower it a lot.
As for the sway bars, I have a TL-S rear sway bar with a stock front sway bar. It’s probably a little twitchy for a daily driver, but it’s never given me trouble and I don’t wanna free the front sway bar.
You really don’t need all those rear control arms, they might look rusty but they’re almost certainly just fine.
My 2 cents on the sway bars is just to go with the matching Acura set. For daily use, I doubt you'd notice a difference in handling characteristics between the thicker aftermarket bar. Especially for the price. End links, go with Acura parts also. Not only for compatibility concerns but because the Acura parts are thicker, to boot. Front and rear end links are different as are each side. You should have 4 separate part numbers, one for each end link.
Here's the updated parts I"ll be doing

Spring, Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52300-SEP-A11
Honda Holder, Stabilizer Bush (bracket) - #52308-S3M-A00 x2
Acura Rear Suspension Stabilizer Bar (bushing) - #52306-SEP-A11 x2


Link, L Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52325-SDA-A01
Link, R Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52320-SDA-A01
Link, L Front Stabilizer Acura - #51321-SEP-A01
Link, R Front Stabilizer Acura - #51320-SEP-A01


I'll take a look at the diagram and look for the bolts that I might be missing. Thanks
 

· Ken
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Do you have suspension noise (clunking, squeaking, knocking)? Is the car squirmy or handling sloppier than "normal?" I ask because you might be able to get away with doing the bare minimum to get the car road-worthy and performing well. I get the reason to WANT to mod for upgrades but things like control arms and etc are pretty robust and might not need replacement if they're not yet bad. Since it's your daily, consider the amount of down time needed to get all the items on your list sorted out. We're looking at multiple weekends of work here because even simple jobs can turn ugly when rust or extra tooling is involved. Being prepared with tooling and WD-40 is one thing, actually meeting a stubborn part is another ball game. Especially on loaded and rusted suspension components. That's not to discourage you, in fact I encourage you to get your hands dirty and knuckles busted, but just budget and prepare accordingly (easier said than done). I was at about 170k (New England) miles before I replaced the factory struts and springs. It wasn't even because I NEEDED to, at that point I felt the suspension would never go and I simply could not fight the impulse to lower the car. That was a full weekend of work for me despite the simplicity of the job. This was before I had access to the tools and height (for leverage) I have now.

If I were in your shoes I'd tackle the power steering leak first. Have you looked into the PS pump o-ring replacement and power steering line recall? That's a much easier (and cheaper) step than a whole steering rack replacement. The o-ring replacement is a 5 minute job including taking the o-ring out of the packaging. I think you spend more time opening the package than you do replacing the o-ring. I also had my power steering (feed) line replaced twice due to the recall. Once because of the recall itself and the second time because the replacement part was faulty. If both of those are addressed then I suppose you can look into the steering rack. Still, I'd wager a guess and condemn a feed or return line before the actual steering rack unless you have evidence you have a leak or other damage from the rack.

After the steering I'd, personally, jump right to the struts. Again this is more of an impulsive decision because I'd want the immediate gratification from the upgrade. If I'm still feeling determined I'd then jump to the stabilizer bars and end links. Once those items are done, if the suspension is still making noise or is still feeling sloppy, THEN I'd look into isolating and replacing the parts that went bad. I'd do this piecemeal, just enough to fix/replace the faulty part(s) but not go whole hog and refresh the whole suspension system. I can see the value in being pre-emptive but, despite working on my own cars, my mantra is to generally not touch what's not broken. Why bother if the part is still good? Of course, the exception is for upgrades because, on principle, the stock part is already "broken" since it doesn't perform to my own personal standards.

Anyway, best of luck to you and looking forward to your finished project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Do you have suspension noise (clunking, squeaking, knocking)? Is the car squirmy or handling sloppier than "normal?" I ask because you might be able to get away with doing the bare minimum to get the car road-worthy and performing well. I get the reason to WANT to mod for upgrades but things like control arms and etc are pretty robust and might not need replacement if they're not yet bad. Since it's your daily, consider the amount of down time needed to get all the items on your list sorted out. We're looking at multiple weekends of work here because even simple jobs can turn ugly when rust or extra tooling is involved. Being prepared with tooling and WD-40 is one thing, actually meeting a stubborn part is another ball game. Especially on loaded and rusted suspension components. That's not to discourage you, in fact I encourage you to get your hands dirty and knuckles busted, but just budget and prepare accordingly (easier said than done). I was at about 170k (New England) miles before I replaced the factory struts and springs. It wasn't even because I NEEDED to, at that point I felt the suspension would never go and I simply could not fight the impulse to lower the car. That was a full weekend of work for me despite the simplicity of the job. This was before I had access to the tools and height (for leverage) I have now.

If I were in your shoes I'd tackle the power steering leak first. Have you looked into the PS pump o-ring replacement and power steering line recall? That's a much easier (and cheaper) step than a whole steering rack replacement. The o-ring replacement is a 5 minute job including taking the o-ring out of the packaging. I think you spend more time opening the package than you do replacing the o-ring. I also had my power steering (feed) line replaced twice due to the recall. Once because of the recall itself and the second time because the replacement part was faulty. If both of those are addressed then I suppose you can look into the steering rack. Still, I'd wager a guess and condemn a feed or return line before the actual steering rack unless you have evidence you have a leak or other damage from the rack.

After the steering I'd, personally, jump right to the struts. Again this is more of an impulsive decision because I'd want the immediate gratification from the upgrade. If I'm still feeling determined I'd then jump to the stabilizer bars and end links. Once those items are done, if the suspension is still making noise or is still feeling sloppy, THEN I'd look into isolating and replacing the parts that went bad. I'd do this piecemeal, just enough to fix/replace the faulty part(s) but not go whole hog and refresh the whole suspension system. I can see the value in being pre-emptive but, despite working on my own cars, my mantra is to generally not touch what's not broken. Why bother if the part is still good? Of course, the exception is for upgrades because, on principle, the stock part is already "broken" since it doesn't perform to my own personal standards.

Anyway, best of luck to you and looking forward to your finished project.
NEVER knew about that steering rack pump o ring liine recall.... Can I get this fixed for free??

Yeah I was already knowing this was going to be a nasty job. My plan is to PB blast the bolts and whatnot every day afternoon night for a week before I start haha...

Also making sure I get all the parts before I start.. I can understand where you're getting at from why replace what is not broken, I guess my idea is why put more work for myself in the future when I can just do it all in one shot! its a 215k mile car. None of these parts have changed Lol, when looking at the control arms they were pretty bad shape... but maybe I'm wrong here. The other person in the replies said something like "I know they may look excessively rusty, but they're most likely fine."

Not sure what I've decided yet.. Saving 600$ from buying rear control arms would be nice. But I definitely don't want to regret not replacing it if anything goes bad.
 
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