Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

Final post about my 2007 accord replacements. Rear and Front. Detailed Full Parts List (Including bolts, nuts, washers.)

5K views 66 replies 8 participants last post by  ownedthawte 
#1 · (Edited)
Here are the parts I've decided on for my suspension/steering replacement, I've tried my best to connect the pieces in written form to help anybody whos confused and researching. Also let me know if you have any suggestions! I am doing everything at once so I'm going to go ahead and just go for the best of what I can. All OEM Honda parts I'm buying are from HONDAPARTSNOW. I will let you know if I'm buying from anywhere else.

(1) TL-S 2007 Front Sway Bar Links 27mm #51300-SEP-A21 from ACURAPARTSHQ

(2) OEM Honda End Links - #06523-S84-A00 (Stabilizer kit with new self locking bolts. 2 end links in each set so I am buying 2 sets. It doesn't specify if it's for front or rear so I'm guessing it doesn't matter.)
I was told that people who switch to the TL-S sway bars usually buy them as they come with end links as well. That or it's just because they pair great with matching Acura end links. let me know if this Honda end link choice is a mistake please!

Ended up switching to Acura links as apparently there have been issues with clunking and other various problems when using Honda end links and switching to TL sway bars.
(2) End Links Used -
Link, L Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52325-SDA-A01
Link, R Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52320-SDA-A01
Link, L Front Stabilizer Acura - #51321-SEP-A01
Link, R Front Stabilizer Acura - #51320-SEP-A01


(3) Progress Rear Sway Bar Kit - 22mm ES#3551109 (Comes with 2 holder brush and brackets) ECSTUNING
I was going to get a 20mm TL-S 2007 rear sway bar, but I have just read from people who switched to the 22mm progress sway bar that the car plants to the ground better with it.


Ending up switching to a matching Acura 20MM TL 2007 rear sway bar. Just because this is gonna be my daily and apparently, according to some opinions, I'll barely notice the difference between 22mm and 20mm. Here are the parts from ACURAPARTSHQ, ACURAPARTSWAREHOUSE and HONDAPARTSNOW:
Spring, Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52300-SEP-A11
Honda Holder, Stabilizer Bush - #52308-S3M-A00
Acura Rear Suspension Stabilizer Bar - #52306-SEP-A11


(4) Tien Flex Z Coil Overs - REDLINE360

(4.1) 03-07 Godspeed front and Spec-D rear camber arms? Is that a good choice here? Not doing camber kits unless I end up needing them after all of this, opinions vary and it seems you might not need them if you're doing what I'm doing. Even if you lower your car up to an inch. I don't know much, but it might not wear your tires out too bad without camber kits if the alignment is somewhat in spec.

My main goal for this is just to have a better time steering and to start my 7th gen build. I know oversteering could be really bad in a forward drive car like this so I am going to try to avoid that. Just want a more neutral steering and not trying to sacrifice too much comfort for handling... not a racer just want a nice build on my daily driver accord. Anybody's $.02 is appreciated on anything in this post!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(5) OEM Honda Rack and Front Pinions - #53601-SDB-A11 (My power steering fluid has been leaking for a while now! Right under my rack is power steering fluid that's leaking everywhere. And it's been more than a year I'm sure. This rack is often out of stock. Probably due to the leaking issues.) Costs 700$ for a new one OEM... Don't know if buying an aftermarket rack is a good idea! Bought from Hondacarpartsdirect
Tie Rod Inner #53010-SDB-A01 + Washer #90301-SDB-A01
Tie Rod End R #53540-SDA-A01 + Boot #53546-S84-003
Tie Rod End L #53560-SDA-A01 +Boot #53546-S84-003
End Washer #94030-10080

Pin Split #94201-20350

(6) CV AXLES -
Left #44305-SDB-A00
Right #44306-SDD-A00 REPLACED BY 44305-SDD-A00


(7) Front Shock Absorber -
Fork, L. FR. Shock Absorber #51821-SDA-A00
Fork, R. FR. Shock Absorber #51811-SDA-A00

x2 Shock Absorber Bolt #90121-SM4-010
x2 Shock Absorber Nut #90215-SB0-003
x2 Shock Absorber Lock Bolt #90117-SM4-003


(8) OEM Honda Front Lower Control Arms -
L Front (Lower) - Honda #51360-SDB-A10
R Front (Lower) - Honda #51350-SDB-A10


9) OEM Honda Front Upper Control Arms -
L #51460-SDA-A13
R #51450-SDA-A13
Circlip #52338-SL0-003


(10) OEM Honda Front Ball Joint - (Included with upper control arms I believe. No need to buy these if you buy the whole arm)
#51464-S04-013
Lower Boot #51225-SL5-003

Upper Boot #51464-S04-013
Lower Circlip #52226-SL0-003

(11) OEM Honda Rear Lower Ball Joints - Doesn't exist Lol

(112) OEM Honda Rear Lower Control Arms - Mine are busted up from some kind of accident so I'm replacing them.
2x RR LOWER #52350-SDA-A00

2xWASHER #52364-SDA-A00

(13) OEM Honda Rear Higher Control Arms - Mine are busted up from some kind of accident so I'm replacing them.
2x Rear Upper Control #52360-SDA-A00

2x RUC Nut #90216-SE0-010
2x RUC Washer #52388-SDA-A00
2x RUC Bolt #52387-SDA-A00
2x Other End RUC Nut #90215-SB0-003 (same nut used for rear lower arm, connects into knuckle by screwing using the other end)
2x Other End RUC Washer #52364-SDA-A00

2x Rear Upper Arm 2 #52390-SDB-A01
2x Rear upper 2 Bolt #90184-SDA-A00 (Same bolt that's used for rear lower trailing arms. Need one for each arm. 4 in total if you are purchasing this whole list. 2 in total if you're just replacing both upper arm 2)

(14) Rear Knuckles -
Left #52215-SDA-A50
Right #52210-SDA-A50
4xBUSHING
#52365-SM4-004 (COMES WITH KNUCKLES)
2xWASHER #52364-SDA-A00 (Same washer as rear lower control arms because it connects here. Only two needed total. one for each knuckle.)
2x Bolt for the rear stabilizers #93401-10020-08


(15) OEM Honda Rear Trailing Arms -
L #52375-SDA-A60
RR #52370-SDA-A60

2x Trailing Arm Bolt #90181-S84-A00

(16) OEM Honda Rear Lower Trailing Arms -
2x #52350-SDA-A00
2x Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bolt #90184-SDA-A00
(Same bolt that's used for rear upper arm 2, one for each. two total.)


(17) Rear Upper Leading Arm -
2x #52380-SEP-A02

2x Trailing Arm Bolt #90181-S84-A00

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've also decided to replace my Rotors, Calipers, and break pads:
(18) Rotors:
2x EBC Brakes BSD V Slot Blade High Carbon Disc Brake Rotors, 2-Wheel Set SKU: EBC-BSD7116
2x EBC Brakes BSD V Slot Blade High Carbon Disc Brake Rotors, 2-Wheel Set SKU: EBC-BSD7209

(19) Calipers:
4x PowerStop Autospecialty Stock Replacement Brake Caliper with Bracket SKU: PST-L2669

(20) Break Pads:
4x Wagner Brake ThermoQuiet QC465A Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, I know this post probably has need for speed written all over it, but be easy on me. And if you can educate me about all of this and cars in general, please do. I can definitely read the image charts on hondapartsnow website to see if I'm missing any screws or bolts and whatnot. But I might be missing things because again, I'm just new to this. I'm trying to learn more about cars and work on mine as a project, I drive well and handle well. I just don't know much about car parts except for basic stuffs and changing my own tie rods before. I think I'd love working on my car as I do with computers and my accord seems to be the perfect start for me. I can generally learn quick and have the necessary tools, or If not I can get them! Besides a mini lift for the engine. Hope I made this easy to read. Thanks.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Honda online discount sites will mark a part as discontinued when it's on backorder. I just went thru that with my power steering rack order. Rather than say backorder on site, allow people to buy it, and have to refund and cancel the order - they just mark it as discontinued.

For the lower control arms, the verbiage on the site is ARM, L. FR (LOWER)
My part numbers for lower control arms are:
51350-SDB-A00 for right side and 51360-SDB-A00 for left side.

Are you sure you need all of those rear trailing arms? A lot of those basically don't go bad. The part in the rear I've had to replace a couple times is the upper ball joint.
 
#3 ·
Honda online discount sites will mark a part as discontinued when it's on backorder. I just went thru that with my power steering rack order. Rather than say backorder on site, allow people to buy it, and have to refund and cancel the order - they just mark it as discontinued.

For the lower control arms, the verbiage on the site is ARM, L. FR (LOWER)
My part numbers for lower control arms are:
51350-SDB-A00 for right side and 51360-SDB-A00 for left side.

Are you sure you need all of those rear trailing arms? A lot of those basically don't go bad. The part in the rear I've had to replace a couple times is the upper ball joint.
Honda online discount sites will mark a part as discontinued when it's on backorder. I just went thru that with my power steering rack order. Rather than say backorder on site, allow people to buy it, and have to refund and cancel the order - they just mark it as discontinued.

For the lower control arms, the verbiage on the site is ARM, L. FR (LOWER)
My part numbers for lower control arms are:
51350-SDB-A00 for right side and 51360-SDB-A00 for left side.

Are you sure you need all of those rear trailing arms? A lot of those basically don't go bad. The part in the rear I've had to replace a couple times is the upper ball joint.
My control arms and trailing arms are actually rusted and near to breaking believe it or not lol. But I’ll definitely take a look and make sure before I order any parts. Also is the rear upper ball joint the same part as #8? or is that just for the front? Is there a difference?
 
#9 ·
(2) OEM Honda End Links - #06523-S84-A00 (Stabilizer kit with new self locking bolts. 2 end links in each set so I am buying 2 sets. It doesn't specify if it's for front or rear so I'm guessing it doesn't matter.)
that's a hell of an assumption to make. maybe double-check that one.

also, look at the stickied tl sway bar thread; iirc there were reports of clunking caused by using the accord end links on the acura sway bar because the tl links have a larger diameter stud

the car plants to the ground better with it.
this is some toyota camry "grounded to the ground" nonsense.

(4.1) 03-07 Godspeed front and Spec-D rear camber arms? Is that a good choice here?
no. you don't need front camber adjustment and those brands are trash

(6) OEM Honda Front Lower Control Arms -
? No lower control arms I could find so I'm confused as to what's behind the distinction for "upper" front control arms.
Arm, L Front (Lower) - Honda (51360-SDA-A03)
Arm, R Front (Lower) - Honda (51350-SDA-A03)

(9) OEM Honda Rear Lower Ball Joints - Doesn't exist?

(11) OEM Honda Rear Higher Control Arms -
#52360-SDA-A00
(No right or left, just one higher control arm I'm guessing.)
multi-link rear suspension, no lower ball joint. upper control arms are the same on both sides and include the upper ball joint for the rear.

Well, I know this post probably has need for speed written all over it, [...] I drive well and handle well.
lol
 
#10 ·
that's a hell of an assumption to make. maybe double-check that one.

also, look at the stickied tl sway bar thread; iirc there were reports of clunking caused by using the accord end links on the acura sway bar because the tl links have a larger diameter stud


this is some toyota camry "grounded to the ground" nonsense.


no. you don't need front camber adjustment and those brands are trash


Arm, L Front (Lower) - Honda (51360-SDA-A03)
Arm, R Front (Lower) - Honda (51350-SDA-A03)


multi-link rear suspension, no lower ball joint. upper control arms are the same on both sides and include the upper ball joint for the rear.


lol
Lots of help thank you so much.
 
#12 · (Edited)
My 2 cents on the sway bars is just to go with the matching Acura set. For daily use, I doubt you'd notice a difference in handling characteristics between the thicker aftermarket bar. Especially for the price. End links, go with Acura parts also. Not only for compatibility concerns but because the Acura parts are thicker, to boot. Front and rear end links are different as are each side. You should have 4 separate part numbers, one for each end link.
 
#13 ·
My 2 cents on the sway bars is just to go with the matching Acura set. For daily use, I doubt you'd notice a difference in handling characteristics between the thicker aftermarket bar. Especially for the price. End links, go with Acura parts also. Not only for compatibility concerns but because the Acura parts are thicker, to boot. Front and rear end links are different as are each side. You should have 4 separate part numbers for each end link.
Went ahead and changed my plans to do that. Thanks.
 
#14 ·
+1 on skipping the camber kits. I have Tien Flex Z coilovers and the stock camber adjustment keeps the camber and toe just fine. Maybe get adjustable upper rear arms if you wanna lower it a lot.

As for the sway bars, I have a TL-S rear sway bar with a stock front sway bar. It’s probably a little twitchy for a daily driver, but it’s never given me trouble and I don’t wanna free the front sway bar.

You really don’t need all those rear control arms, they might look rusty but they’re almost certainly just fine.

as for something you do need, engine mounts, especially the front and side mounts. They’re relatively easy to replace, and the stock ones probably have gone bad by now.
 
#15 ·
Yeah already replaced my side engine mount when it went bad. I dont have an engine lift for the front so I'll need to get a mechanic to do it unfortunately. Likely I'll wait until I can get an mini lift myself and try and do that myself.

I'll keep that in mind about the rear control arms.
 
#19 ·
Do you have suspension noise (clunking, squeaking, knocking)? Is the car squirmy or handling sloppier than "normal?" I ask because you might be able to get away with doing the bare minimum to get the car road-worthy and performing well. I get the reason to WANT to mod for upgrades but things like control arms and etc are pretty robust and might not need replacement if they're not yet bad. Since it's your daily, consider the amount of down time needed to get all the items on your list sorted out. We're looking at multiple weekends of work here because even simple jobs can turn ugly when rust or extra tooling is involved. Being prepared with tooling and WD-40 is one thing, actually meeting a stubborn part is another ball game. Especially on loaded and rusted suspension components. That's not to discourage you, in fact I encourage you to get your hands dirty and knuckles busted, but just budget and prepare accordingly (easier said than done). I was at about 170k (New England) miles before I replaced the factory struts and springs. It wasn't even because I NEEDED to, at that point I felt the suspension would never go and I simply could not fight the impulse to lower the car. That was a full weekend of work for me despite the simplicity of the job. This was before I had access to the tools and height (for leverage) I have now.

If I were in your shoes I'd tackle the power steering leak first. Have you looked into the PS pump o-ring replacement and power steering line recall? That's a much easier (and cheaper) step than a whole steering rack replacement. The o-ring replacement is a 5 minute job including taking the o-ring out of the packaging. I think you spend more time opening the package than you do replacing the o-ring. I also had my power steering (feed) line replaced twice due to the recall. Once because of the recall itself and the second time because the replacement part was faulty. If both of those are addressed then I suppose you can look into the steering rack. Still, I'd wager a guess and condemn a feed or return line before the actual steering rack unless you have evidence you have a leak or other damage from the rack.

After the steering I'd, personally, jump right to the struts. Again this is more of an impulsive decision because I'd want the immediate gratification from the upgrade. If I'm still feeling determined I'd then jump to the stabilizer bars and end links. Once those items are done, if the suspension is still making noise or is still feeling sloppy, THEN I'd look into isolating and replacing the parts that went bad. I'd do this piecemeal, just enough to fix/replace the faulty part(s) but not go whole hog and refresh the whole suspension system. I can see the value in being pre-emptive but, despite working on my own cars, my mantra is to generally not touch what's not broken. Why bother if the part is still good? Of course, the exception is for upgrades because, on principle, the stock part is already "broken" since it doesn't perform to my own personal standards.

Anyway, best of luck to you and looking forward to your finished project.
 
#20 ·
NEVER knew about that steering rack pump o ring liine recall.... Can I get this fixed for free??

Yeah I was already knowing this was going to be a nasty job. My plan is to PB blast the bolts and whatnot every day afternoon night for a week before I start haha...

Also making sure I get all the parts before I start.. I can understand where you're getting at from why replace what is not broken, I guess my idea is why put more work for myself in the future when I can just do it all in one shot! its a 215k mile car. None of these parts have changed Lol, when looking at the control arms they were pretty bad shape... but maybe I'm wrong here. The other person in the replies said something like "I know they may look excessively rusty, but they're most likely fine."

Not sure what I've decided yet.. Saving 600$ from buying rear control arms would be nice. But I definitely don't want to regret not replacing it if anything goes bad.
 
#22 ·
My power steering fluid has been leaking
but from where exactly?? I bought mine with a ps leak out the passenger side of the rack that was small and mild one from the pump. Rebuilt the pump dirt cheap with a few hours of my time and flushed and put in Honda oem fluid and leaks are almost gone totally (driblets I say!). It’s not just the rack that can leak… and unless you get some front end laterally damage or hold the wheel at full lock for more than 5 seconds (which Honda discourages) it’s probably not from the “rack” but more than likely the lines, the pump or the gearbox on the rack. Not unheard of or completely uncommon but there is definitely more easily accessible and cheap places to diagnose first.

pertaining to the OEM Honda PS fluid.. I’m an age old fan of aftermarket products that work … over the counter
“Approved for Honda” power steering fluids do not. Go get yourself a prescription for the good stuff.

Two sheared bolts turned an hour job into an all day event for me. I’ve had the front struts out numerous times and can tell you the torque specs by heart for the majority of the front end suspension but a simple swap turned into 8 hours of bull I didn’t want to be involved in.

(K) has got a good mind to suggest to leave the good alone but at the same time if you are dead set on doing these things… do them in one shot, one day, with enough time to go and get an alignment afterwards, and enough time to have a parts and/or hardware store still open if you need something (obviously unless you have a backup ride and it’s fine for it to be immobilized for some time).

Pending where you live (even regardless it’s just good insurance) you should be hitting your nuts and bolts with your penetrant of choice daily or atleast weekly up till you go into action.

the rear suspension was hard for me to look at the first time I ducked into it. There’s just arms and articulation everywhere … but in a good reassuring way. They’re probably good.. but your rear sway bar links are probably shot. All my rear arms @ 245k are still friggen super solid in road salt central. Maybe cut your work in half to front and rear?

Just want a more neutral steering and not trying to sacrifice too much comfort for handling... not a racer just want a nice build on my accord that's enjoyable to drive
I bought my ride for 600 bucks when it was listed for 500 at 220k miles hahahaha and the ride (actually feeling the road), steering (tight.. and hard) and handling (low roll, responsive aggressive feeling cornering) were spectacular “stock” as far as I can tell. Not sure exactly what you mean with sacrificing comfort for handling but if I feel like I’m driving a marshmallow I won’t but help to feel like there is something wrong with the steering or suspension systems. In fact… if I ever get a “floating” feeling up front it’s either due for some suspension piece or low on fluid before I fixed my power steering leak.

this isn’t a caddy or a crown vic.. you aren’t driving a cloud… you’ll feel the road and it will be fun. It will make you appreciate that perfectly paved stretch of road with a couple winding uphill bends in it with a scenic view more than long straight flats ever would.

and just out of curiosity… engine/transmission?? 2 or 4 doors? Color? Picssss?

PS; just saw this load as I was writing

Can I get this fixed for free??
no…

I accidentally bought the 6 pack of these orings if you REAAAALY need one... but looking at your parts list you aren’t slumming it yet.

EDIT; also good on ya for blaster’n your planned work. Preparation is key.
 
#23 ·
but from where exactly?? I bought mine with a ps leak out the passenger side of the rack that was small and mild one from the pump. Rebuilt the pump dirt cheap with a few hours of my time and flushed and put in Honda oem fluid and leaks are almost gone totally (driblets I say!). It’s not just the rack that can leak… and unless you get some front end laterally damage or hold the wheel at full lock for more than 5 seconds (which Honda discourages) it’s probably not from the “rack” but more than likely the lines, the pump or the gearbox on the rack. Not unheard of or completely uncommon but there is definitely more easily accessible and cheap places to diagnose first.

pertaining to the OEM Honda PS fluid.. I’m an age old fan of aftermarket products that work … over the counter
“Approved for Honda” power steering fluids do not. Go get yourself a prescription for the good stuff.

Two sheared bolts turned an hour job into an all day event for me. I’ve had the front struts out numerous times and can tell you the torque specs by heart for the majority of the front end suspension but a simple swap turned into 8 hours of bull I didn’t want to be involved in.

(K) has got a good mind to suggest to leave the good alone but at the same time if you are dead set on doing these things… do them in one shot, one day, with enough time to go and get an alignment afterwards, and enough time to have a parts and/or hardware store still open if you need something (obviously unless you have a backup ride and it’s fine for it to be immobilized for some time).

Pending where you live (even regardless it’s just good insurance) you should be hitting your nuts and bolts with your penetrant of choice daily or atleast weekly up till you go into action.

the rear suspension was hard for me to look at the first time I ducked into it. There’s just arms and articulation everywhere … but in a good reassuring way. They’re probably good.. but your rear sway bar links are probably shot. All my rear arms @ 245k are still friggen super solid in road salt central. Maybe cut your work in half to front and rear?



I bought my ride for 600 bucks when it was listed for 500 at 220k miles hahahaha and the ride (actually feeling the road), steering (tight.. and hard) and handling (low roll, responsive aggressive feeling cornering) were spectacular “stock” as far as I can tell. Not sure exactly what you mean with sacrificing comfort for handling but if I feel like I’m driving a marshmallow I won’t but help to feel like there is something wrong with the steering or suspension systems. In fact… if I ever get a “floating” feeling up front it’s either due for some suspension piece or low on fluid before I fixed my power steering leak.

this isn’t a caddy or a crown vic.. you aren’t driving a cloud… you’ll feel the road and it will be fun. It will make you appreciate that perfectly paved stretch of road with a couple winding uphill bends in it with a scenic view more than long straight flats ever would.

and just out of curiosity… engine/transmission?? 2 or 4 doors? Color? Picssss?

PS; just saw this load as I was writing



no…

I accidentally bought the 6 pack of these orings if you REAAAALY need one... but looking at your parts list you aren’t slumming it yet.

EDIT; also good on ya for blaster’n your planned work. Preparation is key.
1)Already PB blasting these bolts,
2)Buying some extra bolts and nuts ect so I wont just be stuck if I gotta do something drastic with a bad screw.
3) Trying to knock as many things as I can out of maintenance for this car at one time. Kind of considering also doing the timing belt since I"m already going to be under there taking apart hte suspension!
4)Gonna be a crazy ass day for me, really trying to not make it into a multiday hell. Like trying extremely hard not to put myself in that position. But we'll see where it goes, is what it is if it happens.

I bought a torch to burn out the bearings if I need haha seen some ghetto but smart ball joint removals. Some wrong ones, some good ones.
Hopefully with enough homework and just preparation it will go good.

I have one question though... I never seem to be able to get the information about the different grease people use... It's always just "Grease" never a specific type.. and I know theres a few.
 
#27 ·
Timing belt replacement is not exactly easy on these engines. I would strongly recommend not doing it yourself if you've never done a timing belt before, if you screw it up your engine is toast.

Also you don't need an engine lift to replace the front engine mount, you can just stick a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood and lift the engine.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the tip with jacking up the engine. I'll find my way about that.

Yeah I know it's not easy. which is why I opted to do that while everything is out so it might be a little more open to do it. lol... But I'll be sure to do a lot more research before I try. Thanks for warning me.
 
#31 ·
Forgot to answer your question, the o-ring is not free but the power steering line recall is. You can run your vin through Honda's website below to see if you're affected and schedule and appointment with your nearest dealer.

 
#37 ·
Here's my post about doing my steering rack:


All 7th gen knuckles are the same. The difference is the hub. Different 7th gens use different CV axles (4cyl, v6 auto, manual). You can use any 7th gen knuckles as long as you swap out the hubs and put your current hub in the new knuckle. You can find a knuckle from the same type of Accord as yours and then it will already have the correct hub installed.

@midnight witch is correct about the part numbers changing. Sometimes Honda will say a certain part number has been replaced with a new part number. Just order the current part number and you should be fine.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Would you recommend the OEM steering rack? Or should I go with that cheaper option thats like 150$ or so. I'm looking to keep this car for a long time like you and just continue working on it. So the answer seems obvious, but is there an actual quality difference between them? I'll try to spend the 700$ if its worth it for the rack, I'd have to buy the inner tie rods separately if I go that route though, and I'm not sure if I need to do anything special to install them or if its just screwing them on until it bottoms out.
 
#49 ·
Got all the parts in and i'm starting to work on everything.

Some funny notes:
1) I spent 2 hours hitting the indent and thinking of how to get the out of the axle nut before finding videos and reading that you don't need to bend the lip back to get the axle nut off.. lol
2) Realized I would need some tools that I don't have to replace the front sway bar... Also realized I would need to drop the sub frame to get it in. Also realized how much time and struggle it would be on the jackstands and single jack I have now..
3) I don't even have a 32mm socket to get the axle nut off so I will need to wake up and get to lowes in the morning to get one and start this project lol.

The accords sitting on its pinch welds right now, hopefully it can stay like that for a while. I've heard the pinch welds bend and break and whatnot.
I'm going to do this in two parts... One to replace my "broken" drive shaft. All my rotors and breaks, and my coilovers.

Then I will go ahead and plan a day to replace the front and rear sway bars... The front one seems like something I might not be capable of to be honest, but I'm gonna try to plan it out before I do it.
 
#55 ·
Update:

New bushing in for lower control arms. Decided not to buy new control arms right now. Instead, I went and bought a new bushing where the strut/coilover fork meets the arm.

Since my car was rusty I had to cut the old bolt out that holds the fork and control arm through the bushing. Then I had to cut the rubber out of the bushing and cut the metal wall of it to get it out. Installing the new bushing in was just freezing it and some red automotive grease with a bunch of hammering and a C-clamp + impact. 30mm impact socket fits over it perfectly.

Bought a new fork but it was such a tight fit it wouldn't even go over the old bushing. Ended up using my old fork until I can figure out wtf to do.

Tein flex z coilovers are installed too. Gonna go back out there and figure out what settings and measurements I should put. Its kind of confusing at first but I'm finding some videos and reading online about it. If anybody knows their measurements / damp settings i'd like to know.

Got new rotors and brakes in.

Got the rear sway bar in. Broke a bolt that holds the rear sway bar down. I'm about to get it with an extractor and see if it comes out. Not sure if I drilled the threads by accident so I might need to do a repair with a thread kit. Something like Time sert.

-------------------------------------------------
My car definitely came from north. This thing does not like to move. Left threaded drill bits and extractor sockets were pretty much necessary to do this solo without any big tools.

Crow feet ratchet wrenches were also nice to use sometimes.

Overall, I've had to drill out a few bolts or use the extractor socket to get them out (like on my old rotors and brakes.)

Gonna torque everything down to spec and figure out my ride height right now.
 
#56 ·
Hey there Tony I am pretty much doing the same as you, in a rust area (Michigan). I use PB Blaster and a very strong impact with swivel impact sockets. The only problem bushing I had was a compliance bushing and I just used a saws all. My fork bolts came right out though with force of an air hammer (must have tool). I have had the coil overs on for a little while and they are doing great. I am also doing new front forks since they are trashed. I got the SKF forks and removing the lower ball joints and putting in OEM. Plus I got SKF bearings to install. I have a 12 ton press so that should be helpful. I have new dust shields and wheel speed sensors too. I am going to get the sway bar end links you mentioned:
Link, L Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52325-SDA-A01
Link, R Rear Stabilizer Acura - #52320-SDA-A01
Link, L Front Stabilizer Acura - #51321-SEP-A01
Link, R Front Stabilizer Acura - #51320-SEP-A01
Acura 94050-12080Flange Nut (12Mm)

have you installed these? Do they work out well?
Thank you for the write up and the diary of the project it’s helpful!
 
#57 ·
I've installed the rear tl - s end links. I think 2007, not very sure there.

I've driven with them without an alignment yet. They're great. Also installed the acura tl-s 2007 rear sway bar. Love it so far, especially with the car lowered. It really feels a lot different.

One of my bolts that hold my sway bar down broke... I tried to extract it today and it broke the nut off that they spot weld. Thats what holds the bolt and lets you hold the sway bar if that makes sense.

If you go under your car and take a look you'll understand what I'm talking about.

Its 4 screws. Two for each bushing on the rear sway bar. I broke one of those and tried to extract it, which took off the nut they spot weld on there for what you screw the bolt in. Without it that nut, theres nothing for the bolt to screw into.

Now I need to go get a new nut that matches the bolt so I can finish putting in this rear sway bar. I probably wont get it spot welded, I'll just "pinch" it in with torque.



I have not yet touched the front sway bar or end links because this requires lowering the subframe. Something I'm not ready to do without a lift lol.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top