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CarandDriver reviewed a stock 2.0 running 14.1 @ 102 mph. I would be very surprised and disappointed if a stage 2 tune couldn't trap over 100mph.(video shows 98mph)

Maybe a very poor prepped track, we need more 2.0 guys to hit the track!
 

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Idk, something seems off to me. Not launching could make the difference between 14.2 and 13.9, but being auto and the way the traction control stops you from accelerating could definitely hinder you. Even in the MT the traction control kicks you down really hard. So I think a custom tune needs to be ran to really see what the car can do. Remember the Hondata and Ktuner stage 1-whatever are just presets for ANY car. A custom tune is far more superior in every way. I'm not gonna base all judgements off of 1 guy and 1 car though. There will be more to come.
 

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I knew this 2.0t was pushing the car as fast as my 1996 z28. Miss that from college days. One day I'll take it for test in Ennis near Dallas. Fridays are 15 bucks to run as many as you want.
 

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I noticed the driver was also not manual shifting, letting it rev out all the way to 7k. The car loses power after 6k, so that might be the power loss there. Also notice the boost gauge. Boost significantly drops after 6k.
 

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CarandDriver reviewed a stock 2.0 running 14.1 @ 102 mph. I would be very surprised and disappointed if a stage 2 tune couldn't trap over 100mph.(video shows 98mph)

C&D does not state how many timed passes were made, or average ET.

Motor Trend has 14.3 sec @ 99.3 mph with 2.0T and 10AT. A half second or more variation is normal even for expert drivers. Did Hondata promise that this car would break through the 14 second wall consistently?
 

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No, they didn't. Did people really expect more than 2-3, maybe 4 tenths off the quarter mile? I mean... we are talking about like 10% more power. It's still not a 500hp car.

With that being said, throw some slicks on the front and you can probably get well into the 13s.
 

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In stock form, the car trapped at 98 mph on what appeared to be a cool day (good for power). It also seemed to spin its wheels slightly off the line which implies a decent launch. While a 98 mph trap speed is still plenty quick for a family car, it makes me wonder what C&D did (or what Honda sent) to get a 102 mph trap speed. Aside from C&D’s test, all other tests I’ve read posted sub-100 mph trap speeds. If that is what the car is, that’s still fine. But if you buy the car expecting a 102 mph trap speed and it is actually 98-99 mph, as stated that could be disappointing. I too am curious to see how the 2.0T-6MT performs in real life.

As for the post tuned car being no faster (trap speed) than stock, that could be something specific to that car. As @DJDannyV mentioned, the car shifted at redline post-tune. In other videos the stock Accord shifted at a lower rpm. Shifting too high on a turbo can hurt acceleration. I know that Speed3s were fastest when shifted around 5,500 rpm, well below its redline. Maybe that applies here too. To those with tunes, can you change the shift point on the 10AT?
 

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While a 98 mph trap speed is still plenty quick for a family car, it makes me wonder what C&D did (or what Honda sent) to get a 102 mph trap speed. Aside from C&D’s test, all other tests I’ve read posted sub-100 mph trap speeds. If that is what the car is, that’s still fine....I too am curious to see how the 2.0T-6MT performs in real life.
Very true...The Accord is plenty fast for mass appeal family hauler. Had an 86 Mustang 5.0 that ran a 14.7 with trap speeds in the high 90s and that was fast in 1986. To think a family sedan today matches that is pretty impressive. People need to remember that the Accord is a family hauler and not a "muscle car" or true sports sedan/sports car so expectations should be set appropriately. The Accord is impressive for what is doing many things well.

As far as the M6, it will be interesting to see what they track. Traditionally the consistency of ATs will beat out MTs. Also don't think "paddle shifting" an AT would get faster times than letting the AT shift itself. There's usually a lag in manually shifting ATs.
 

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I still can’t believe that a 4300 lb. family barge - with three rows of seats - ripped off a 14.8 second ET @ 94 mph. That’s what C&D has on the 2016 Honda Pilot Elite with AWD.

The Pilot has a 4.33:1 final drive. If you put the same gear set in the Accord with 10AT (which has 3.55:1) the car would probably run consistent 13 second ETs. Unfortunately the gas mileage would decline because the engine would spin at higher rpms. There is no free lunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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Heat has a lot to do with how these cars run, especially on the stock tune. Any heat at all and the car pulls timing and knock control goes up to protect the engines.
That's true for all cars and not just the Accord! ;)
 

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From the dyno results you are going to have to short shift. Max torque 375lbs falls off real good after 3,500 rpm. And peak hp goes away after 6,000 rpm. Thats great power range for passing or running around a 40mph and hitting the gas and slamming your head back but once you are out of that rpm range it drops quick. At 6,000rpm the dyno shows 250lbs of torque and 280hp. Now if they kept the torque number say above 300 or 325 all the way 6,000rpm it would do 13.7 no problem. A Q50 makes 293hp and 275lbs and runs 13.7 all day. The key thing is for the Q50 from 2,200rpm all the way to 7,000 the torque is flat only changes by about 40lbs over the entire rev range. Just giving an example. Those tunes are real nice and make great peak numbers but torque just drops off way to fast and it does not make that much for very long hince the slow drag times.

I have a 2017 Touring. And I have HFPC and RV6 j-pipe and k-Tuner. I have 18" HPD wheels that with tires weigh only 43lbs compared to the stock 19" tires weighing 57lbs. But I have ran a 13.8 @103mph I dont drag race at all. I just ran my car one night after I put on all my bolt on go fast stuff on my car all at once.

Here is where I got the dyno numbers.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/265-performance/507898-hondata-stage-1-2-3-mt.html
 

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From the dyno results you are going to have to short shift. Max torque 375lbs falls off real good after 3,500 rpm. And peak hp goes away after 6,000 rpm. Thats great power range for passing or running around a 40mph and hitting the gas and slamming your head back but once you are out of that rpm range it drops quick. At 6,000rpm the dyno shows 250lbs of torque and 280hp. Now if they kept the torque number say above 300 or 325 all the way 6,000rpm it would do 13.7 no problem. A Q50 makes 293hp and 275lbs and runs 13.7 all day. The key thing is for the Q50 from 2,200rpm all the way to 7,000 the torque is flat only changes by about 40lbs over the entire rev range. Just giving an example. Those tunes are real nice and make great peak numbers but torque just drops off way to fast and it does not make that much for very long hince the slow drag times.

Here is where I got the dyno numbers.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/265-performance/507898-hondata-stage-1-2-3-mt.html
Your statement is true. The small turbo is to blame. Although as a city/highway family sedan the small turbo was the perfect choice.
I feel my 2.0t touring running out of breath at top end (stock tune). It feels dead on top stage 1. Stage 2 is different though. I feel somewhat of a linear power band. I get yummy torque down low to a strong midrange then The ~305Hp on top keeps on pulling.
 

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I noticed the driver was also not manual shifting, letting it rev out all the way to 7k. The car loses power after 6k, so that might be the power loss there. Also notice the boost gauge. Boost significantly drops after 6k.
Technically with that tune it’s losing power after 5k rpm. Most people don’t understand how to stay in the power band with these tunes that’s why the times arnt that different.
 
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