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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Doing my first diy oil change on a 2004 v6. Thread asking for maintenance recommendations

Took out the oil drain plug, and lo and behold, it had teflon tape on the plug threads. There was a tail of it coming off, so I removed what was on it. What do I do now? Do I put new teflon tape on? put the plug back without tape? Something else? (And yes, with a new new crush washer.)

Background - very low mileage car, but on my last oil change, at a jiffy, i came home and found oil drips. Looked underneath and they were dripping off the car from the oil pan, exactly where the plug it. Took a picture, and brought it back to the place who claimed to do some sort "tightening" or a "new bolt". (They used an oil rag and a shop vac to remove the drain plug without draining the oil.) They claimed that the oil leak could be any number of other places and just dripping to there. Whatever they did didn't stop the leak, but the drips are pretty minor. (may or may not have reduced it).

Looking at it now: the bolt doesn't look new, but it's not obviously original either. It had a crush washer on it, and after removing the crush washer isn't not smooth. Bolt felt on rather tight, but I don't have the expertise to figure out if it was on too tight before.
 

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Crush washers are intended for one time use. If the oil changer didn't use a new crush washer, leaks can occur. For the honda's the oil drain bolt is NOT replaced with each oil change. This being the case, an old oil drain plug is expected. I would not use teflon and try a new crush washer. If the new crush washer still results in a drip, you can try either using an oversized new oil plug (basically it will tap into the oil pan) or maybe the oil plug is worn due to prior mis-threading. You'll need a torque wrench (possibly digital to make life simpler) to determine how tight is tight but using gorilla strength will cause problems on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok. Plan A is the "right way" - new aluminum crush washer, reusing the blot, no teflon tape, and torqued to 29 ft-lbs.

I don't know what the shop did to get me to leave, or that it matched what they said, except that it resulted in teflon tape on the threads. They may have torqued it tighter (or not). They might have replaced the crush washer, or not. They may have replaced the bolt, or not. Only reason I thought there might be a new drain bolt is because they said something to that effect, but they may have done something else.
 

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Did check to see if there are actually 2 crush washers there? Possibly came off with the filter and the other one is still stuck around the hole on the pan?

Two washers can cause an oil leak, just like a missing (or reused) washer can....

(I can't type/spell today...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did check to see if there are actually 2 crush washers there?
Checked both for a leftover gasket on the oil filter, and a washer on the drain pan. At first I thought there was one there, but it was just the mating surface.

Cleaned off that part of the oil pan exterior, and managed to use my 1/2 inch torque wrench with a wobble to torque it (not perfect, but it's not far from spec) with the new crush washer.

Filled the oil, drove around the block to get to temperature, checked the oil level and topped it off to the top line on the dipstick. Left a clean cardboard box where it would drip, so that I could tell easily if it did. As of yet, no drips. We'll see. I've got a transmission drain and fill soon, so I'll be under before long to get a good look.
 

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"Possibly came off with the filter and the other one is still stuck around the hole on the pan?"

What exactly does the crush gasket have to do with the oil filter? There's no crush gasket on the filter.

If it helps, I have never torqued mine. The feeling of the crush gasket "crushing" let's you know you've got it right. I do realize in your case, you were unsure if it was the original plug or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The feeling of the crush gasket "crushing" let's you know you've got it right
I guess I don't have practice knowing what to feel for. And I wasn't sure what was there was in good shape. (I replaced the washer, but could have easily had a plug or a pan with an issue.) So far so good, but, as a newbie, I can fight the temptation to tighten too much knowing that the torque wrench tells me it's tight enough.

So far, I've had to use a lot more force to loosen bolts than to tighten them to spec. Of course, that's not the same, but I could have easily been tempted to overdue it.
 

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Doing my first diy oil change on a 2004 v6. Thread asking for maintenance recommendations

Took out the oil drain plug, and lo and behold, it had teflon tape on the plug threads. There was a tail of it coming off, so I removed what was on it. What do I do now? Do I put new teflon tape on? put the plug back without tape? Something else? (And yes, with a new new crush washer.)

Background - very low mileage car, but on my last oil change, at a jiffy, i came home and found oil drips. Looked underneath and they were dripping off the car from the oil pan, exactly where the plug it. Took a picture, and brought it back to the place who claimed to do some sort "tightening" or a "new bolt". (They used an oil rag and a shop vac to remove the drain plug without draining the oil.) They claimed that the oil leak could be any number of other places and just dripping to there. Whatever they did didn't stop the leak, but the drips are pretty minor. (may or may not have reduced it).

Looking at it now: the bolt doesn't look new, but it's not obviously original either. It had a crush washer on it, and after removing the crush washer isn't not smooth. Bolt felt on rather tight, but I don't have the expertise to figure out if it was on too tight before.
I would not go to those quick oil change shops because they do not hire the best (typically a low rate of pay). They can strip the threads, not tighten the oil plug (& over time the plug loosens & oil comes out), etc. Better to either do it yourself or have a trusted tech do it. If they ruined the threads of the oil pan that would explain why they put teflon tape on the plug.
 

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I would not go to those quick oil change shops because they do not hire the best (typically a low rate of pay). They can strip the threads, not tighten the oil plug (& over time the plug loosens & oil comes out), etc. Better to either do it yourself or have a trusted tech do it. If they ruined the threads of the oil pan that would explain why they put teflon tape on the plug.
Even dealer will over tighten the bolt. I checked the crushed washer dealer installed for the oil drain plug and the transmission drain plug. Way over crushed, esp. for the transmission. I have to use a screw driver to pry the washer off. It will be no surprise to me if the threads get stripped. And definitely no torque wrench involved. I guess they just used impact wrench.
 

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If not done already, just get new washer, new bolt and do it yourself. The general rule is to tighten fully with ratchet where it stops natural, then reset ratchet position for a little 1/4 turn or less. Some shops are shady and will use teflon to hide issues / errors. I don't replace the crush washer every time, only if it looks corroded or warped in shape (too tight). I've only done it because I had spares, not because I needed to. Good job on getting it solved.

You should also check oil level next morning (cold, sitting temp) just to see.
 
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