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06 accord 4cyl. 50k miles.
Car has pulled left since I bought it 1 year ago. 4 new tires (old tires were worn evenly and normal) didn't change anything. Not a brake pull, car always does it consistently. Tire pressures perfect.
Took to alighnment shop, they gave it back and pull is slightly better. They said all specs were perfect must be a tire. Swapped tires right to left and still left pull (put tifres back in their spots after).
Took back to alignment shop, they then told me evrything is in spec. I asked if they could kick a half degree of castor to get it straight. He then told me the camber and castor is not adjustable. I then asked how he managed to get the pull slightly better and he said that he adjusted the toe and that helped. Well anyone who is everyone in the auto industry knows that toe in/out WILL NOT AFFECT PULL (feel free to challenge).
So my big question is camber and castor adjustable without a kit?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
 

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Well anyone who is everyone in the auto industry knows that toe in/out WILL NOT AFFECT PULL (feel free to challenge).
So my big question is camber and castor adjustable without a kit?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Toe in/out plays the biggest role in straight line tracking. You could not be more wrong...sorry.

Camber always has some adjustability...bolt play at the very least. Other options are kits or to round or dremel an ellipse to gain more adjustment.

Caster is typically never an option to adjust.


I would highly suggest searching the net on this topic...
 

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i had the same problem, so adjust toe will help to get the straight line? So toe in or toe out? which way? my car is slightly pull to the left
 

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Go to a real alignment shop...
 

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I have the same problem regarding the drifting to the left. I now have very noticeable body sway, initiated from the rear of the car. All alignment settings are in OEM spec and tires rotated. Swaying persists, but that's for another thread.
 

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Is there a printout or did you actually see the readings on the screen being within specifications?

The method of elongating the bolt hole for the strut only works on struts with the two mounting bolts that go thru the spindle. Does not apply to our cars. To adjust camber, one of the options would be an adjustable ball joint

It's possible for toe to cause a drift. I experienced this first hand with my black 06.
 

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I have the same problem regarding the drifting to the left. I now have very noticeable body sway, initiated from the rear of the car. All alignment settings are in OEM spec and tires rotated. Swaying persists, but that's for another thread.
If all camber/toe/caster are within OEM spec, AND your tires are good/constantly rotated, I would check the bushings on your LCA. They're known to give/weaken. My car has 36k miles and already mine are weakened when I have her up on the lift :thumbsdow
 

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Toe affects the pull, BIG TIME. Camber and caster never. You can have very negative camber and still track straight.

If everything is good, then you need to check the ball joints and tie rod end arms. Although a bad ball joint can be compensated by adjust the toe setting. If you have bent tie rod ends or something wrong with the steering rack then you must replace the bent components, no alignment can fix it.

You don't need a camber kit either. The front camber does not start to start to change/go negative until you lower the car for more than 2", and you are at stock height I'm assuming.
 

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OP. Please explain how the toe being in or out won't affect how the car travels in a straight line....

Each corner of the car is independent from each other for alignments. It is entirely possible that one tire having the toe out WILL cause the car to pull.

But honestly, you need to get new tires. And have it balanced and realigned.
 

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Toe affects the pull, BIG TIME. Camber and caster never
A vehicle will pull to the side with the most positive camber or most negative caster. FWD cars are less likely to pull from caster. Trucks or RWD cars are more prone. I've done and corrected one or two alignments in my years working in cars
 

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Except that we are talking a FWD Honda, and if the car has the most positive camber then we have other issues like bent suspension or steering components. Giving this guy too much info will just confuse him.
 

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As I mentioned before... Go to a real alignment shop, and get a printout. I recently had my 03 aligned, and the owner did not have a printer to print things out, so he had me watch while he aligned it, and brought the car not just "within specs" but dead on where it should be. That's the difference between a good shop and a great shop!
 

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There is some TSB for the accord which states that the subframe has to be loosened, moved slightly and re-tightened.
You may want to check on that if it applies to your car.
 
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