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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
That's right, South Main Auto does a front brake job on a 2006 Accord V6! He shows also how to free up a very stuck slider pin. I don't have to say much here, I do the same steps to the T with what Eric O does here.

Notice the:
  • fluid film spray on the cleaned up hub surface
  • the use of flat file in the caliper bracket's slots to remove rust build-up
  • the use of lube in the caliper bracket slots, NO lube used on the brake hardware, to prevent pads from being pinched in the bracket to cause all sorts of weird braking issues

 

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What's funny is that in AZ you don't ever have to deal with cleaning corrosion off beyond just wiping off surface dust/rust with a cloth :)

Scotchbrite wheel + dremel for the brackets and a bore cleaning brush for the slide pin hole would work better than what he was doing. But other than that yeah what he's doing: just clean stuff up, lubricate everything. Permatex Extreme is good stuff, it does "dry" somewhat but seems to keep lubricating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
^
That's good for you,
but unfortunately for us that live in the snow belt, we need to be diligent on these small tasks on the brakes to prevent problems.

Eric used a drill in the bore because the pin was seized HARD in there. I have round cylindrical file but I have yet to use it because I keep up on the small tasks to ensure rust does not creep into the slider pin holes.
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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^
That's good for you,
but unfortunately for us that live in the snow belt, we need to be diligent on these small tasks on the brakes to prevent problems.

Eric used a drill in the bore because the pin was seized HARD in there. I have round cylindrical file but I have yet to use it because I keep up on the small tasks to ensure rust does not creep into the slider pin holes.
Eric O is the best mechanic on YouTube.
EricTheCarGuy is a video maker with a reluctant mechanic background, far not as good.

When I disassembled/cleaned the front brakes, I found that all the slider pins are ok. The corrosion on the brackets are the biggest problem (causing pad to freeze), also the corrosion/rust on the inner side of the rotors. With a screw driver, I knocked off about 1 cup of rusts from both front rotors. The rotors are OEM, only about 3 years old. The winter salt is brutal on the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree about EricTheCarGuy not being detailed. I USED TO follow his direction about putting anti-seize on the pad ears. I know it failed because I did that on my mom's Acura TL rear brakes and the rear pads were completely seized, inside the caliper bracket.
 

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I would follow up using the drill bit by running some fine steel wool or fine grit sandpaper in the bolt hole and then blast it with compressed air to get the last of the gunk out, clean and smooth the bore out and the pin surfaces as much as possible before putting the grease in.

Anybody rebuild their calipers? It's not hard, you might need new pistons if they're pitted much. With the seventh generation Accords being ten plus years old, I would guess most calipers could use new pistons, the repair kit with two seals is only a few bucks, the caliper piston at RockAuto is about $9. Assembling the caliper with clean parts and having clean hands, you don't want any grease or oil in the caliper insides where the brake fluid is, very important.

Oh, and if you do rebuild them or put new calipers on, I would recommend flushing (bleeding) out the old brake fluid from the whole system first. That way when you go to bleed the air out you have clean fluid flushing through the rebuilt calipers.
 

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I agree about EricTheCarGuy not being detailed. I USED TO follow his direction about putting anti-seize on the pad ears. I know it failed because I did that on my mom's Acura TL rear brakes and the rear pads were completely seized, inside the caliper bracket.
:grin Salt is the main enemy. Whatever is on the pad ears or under the clips won't last long. Unless we move to California or Arizona, the brake cleaning routine is unavoidable.
 

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I agree about EricTheCarGuy not being detailed. I USED TO follow his direction about putting anti-seize on the pad ears. I know it failed because I did that on my mom's Acura TL rear brakes and the rear pads were completely seized, inside the caliper bracket.
Talk about small world. I used that same video and followed his direction regarding anti-seize on my Acura TL and guess what?
It seized anyway, ended up having to buy a whole new caliper.

So yea, I share the same opinion regarding his lack of thoroughness
 

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I did an oopsie changing brake pads today. When undoing the 17mm bolt I destroyed the teeth in one of the tapped holes in the brake caliper bracket. I am sure I was turning it the correct way but maybe it was rusty and my impact wrench was overzealous. Anyway now it's just a hole. Nothing to hold the bolt. Honda parts website sells the entire caliper assembly for several hundos. What are my options, what would you do? Tap it at the next size up and use a larger bolt? Walk the junkyards? Are the aftermarket brackets any good? I see Duralast, Napa etc bunch of options.


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I've got an aftermarket bracket on one of my rears. No problems. My pin got corroded and so the bracket got corroded too. I tried cleaning it out, but it didn't turn out as good as I'd hoped so I just bought a new one.

I want to say O'Reilly sold the bracket separately.
 

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I've got an aftermarket bracket on one of my rears. No problems. My pin got corroded and so the bracket got corroded too. I tried cleaning it out, but it didn't turn out as good as I'd hoped so I just bought a new one.

I want to say O'Reilly sold the bracket separately.
Thank you for the info. For some reason the rears seemed easier to find. Advance AP had nothing, O'Reilly and Autozone could get the entire assembly, only Napa could get a bracket in 4 days. I called 4 junkyards, the closest to a 2014 Accord was a 2012, which is a previous gen, but the part in the above video looks similar to what I pulled out of my car. I'll go check it out now and edit this post with what I find.

Edit: Close but no cigar. The 2012 bracket is the same size, all the holes are at the same place, bracket bolts are the same size, but the pins are smaller, so are the bolts that mount the caliper on the pins. It was worth a shot, and would be a quick fix, but no such luck. I ordered a new aftermarket bracket from Napa. It will take several days before the part arrives, but at this point this seems to be the next best solution.

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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I did an oopsie changing brake pads today. When undoing the 17mm bolt I destroyed the teeth in one of the tapped holes in the brake caliper bracket. I am sure I was turning it the correct way but maybe it was rusty and my impact wrench was overzealous. Anyway now it's just a hole. Nothing to hold the bolt. Honda parts website sells the entire caliper assembly for several hundos. What are my options, what would you do? Tap it at the next size up and use a larger bolt? Walk the junkyards? Are the aftermarket brackets any good? I see Duralast, Napa etc bunch of options.


View attachment 522254 View attachment 522251
Just get a correct aftermarket one.

Wow! To strip that bolt, it needed serious power. Are you sure you turned the right way? The bolt is mounted opposite, very easy to set the impact wrong. When I did my rear struts, I set the direction wrong and the bolt head was twisted off immediately. Most likely, you turned the wrong way and pulled all the threads off. Had you turn the right way, no way that can happen (look at the other hole, not all that rusty at all).
 

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Final update and resolution: After waiting for 5 days for the Napa part, it turns out to be for an 8th gen. Identical to the one I pulled from the 2012. Whatever. I ordered a thread repair kit , similar to Helicoil (another 2 days) and repaired my old part. Torqued to spec, back in service.
 

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Has anyone here used a hub cleaning tool like this?
I have this, not that useful. If spray the hub surface with fluid film or antiseize or a painted rotor, there won't be rusts anyway. A wire brush is enough.
 

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That's right, South Main Auto does a front brake job on a 2006 Accord V6! He shows also how to free up a very stuck slider pin. I don't have to say much here, I do the same steps to the T with what Eric O does here.

Notice the:
  • fluid film spray on the cleaned up hub surface
  • the use of flat file in the caliper bracket's slots to remove rust build-up
  • the use of lube in the caliper bracket slots, NO lube used on the brake hardware, to prevent pads from being pinched in the bracket to cause all sorts of weird braking issues
Just did the front brakes on my sons car last night - in bold above is what the issue with my sons car was.

Resolution: Wire wheeled the flat portion of the bracket where the clips go, and the pads go in nice and loose now. A file works also, I just have a nice sized wire wheel with a large access.

Its been 4 years/34k since the pads were replaced, that is probably a little too long if you do mostly highway driving, but the city driving as my son was doing, the pads were already toast. Just wanted to point out the importance of this step that is bolded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Has anyone here used a hub cleaning tool like this?

I see these used in multiple youtube videos all the time, but I never use them. I coat the back side of the rim hub with good coat of silver anti-seize and rust never builds up around the hub's surface or around the studs. Sometimes the rust grows out of the wheel hub area from behind the rotor through the gap around the wheel studs, that's why I coat that area with fluid film. Problem solved.
 

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I see these used in multiple youtube videos all the time, but I never use them. I coat the back side of the rim hub with good coat of silver anti-seize and rust never builds up around the hub's surface or around the studs. Sometimes the rust grows out of the wheel hub area from behind the rotor through the gap around the wheel studs, that's why I coat that area with fluid film. Problem solved.
I use a disk made from a flattened beer can to remove rust. Then I apply a very little sunflower oil to the hub and to the brake disk rim, and go over it with the can disk again, which applies aluminium to the metal surface. This is a good general corrosion treatment but on hubs you have to either be very sparing, use a layer of polythene sheet as a separator, or use grease instead of sunflower oil, otherwise the wheel can stick on rather firmly.

I clean the caliper pins with aluminium foil then apply silicon grease and wrap them with PTFE thread tape. I also wrap the pad ears with PTFE tape, with doesn't attract brake dust like other lubricants do.
 
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