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On post 7 it notes to release the brake hose mounting bolt. When i did this, fluid came out. I tightened the bolt and replaced the pads. Now the brake pedal goes all the way down to the floor when stopping. Does this mean i volunteered myself to bleed the brakes?
Yes. Never loosten the bleed bolt when changing pads. 99% of the time you will let air into the caliper. For a DIY forum, the recommendation to do this might get someone killed. DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!
 

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Most of the time it comes with the pads from a dealer. It's always been in the box for me!
 

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I have a question about the rear....Since you do not use a c clamp to push the piston back as you turn the piston to push it back can you hold the caliper and push it back or do you have to mount the caliper some how to get some leverage to push it back....
 

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you should be able to just hold it and twist the piston back into the calliper
 

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2005 Rotor Replacement

Princess,

Could you please provide me with instructions to replace the rotors on a 05 Accord EX V6 Coupe?

Thanks!
 

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same as a sedan.
 

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Is there anything special about replacing the rear pads and rotors besides the turning of the piston (compared to the front)? I question because when i took a quick look i noticed the emergency brake set up and didnt know if anything had to be done with this during the process. I have a 2003 ex 4cyl sedan. thanks.
 

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what type of tools is used to push the piston back in on the front calipers on a '07 accord? If a c/clamp is used what is the proper position to place it. I'm a first timer and when I pushed the piston, it did not go far enough to get the caliper over the new pads. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Great post by Princess, very savy, simple and easily understood. Regards

Richard
 

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The last time..I ordered Red Stuff brakes and performance slotted rotors for about $40 ea from jcwhitney and another site and took them to a shop to have them install because these parts were actually cheaper then the junk they put on your car at mavis or anywhere else..

But..regarding rotors...if you replace the front/rear pads early (at 35,000 MILES) you shouldn't have to replace the rotors? and don't wait for any noise
I don't like finding out what should be a $200 brake job triples in cost because i need rotors..
 

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Question on front rotor replacement- I downloaded the 05 rotor pdf posted by Princess. The instructions say to remove the spindle nut and rotor retaining screw. Does the spindle nut need to come off to get the rotor off?
 

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nope.
 

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Rear drum brakes

Princess can you provide instructions on how to replace/inspect rear drums on 05 LX Accord?

Thanks
 

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I feel somewhat vindicated in my view (see post #16) that it's often unnecessary to turn rotors. :) The quote below is from the December 2010 Honda ServiceNews.

"Don't Refinish Brake Discs
Unnecessarily
Currently Applies To: All
Back in July of this year, we revised S/B 00-088,
Brake Disc Refinishing Guidelines. That revision had
two purposes:
• It removed the requirement to refinish new brake
discs. (Improvements in manufacturing processes
have made that unnecessary.)
• It stated that you should only refinish brake discs
when they are scored or out of specification for
runout or parallelism (backed up by
measurements).
But since then, there’s still been a lot of brake disc
refinishing being done, particularly during customerpay
brake jobs. This is a waste of perfectly good
brake disc material and, more importantly, your
customer’s money. So please review your repair
policies when replacing brake pads. Our
investigations have shown that the need for disc
refinishing should be rare. Discs should be refinished
only if they’re scored or out of spec. For detailed
inspection instructions, refer to the appropriate S/M."

Sorry, I don't have access to the service bulletin referred to in the quote.
 

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I feel somewhat vindicated in my view (see post #16) that it's often unnecessary to turn rotors. :) The quote below is from the December 2010 Honda ServiceNews.
Thank you. :)

I've always felt that the "ya gotta turn the rotors" was old fashioned and not needed most of the time.

I had a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP that I changed the front pads on at 60k miles, then both front and rear pads again at 100k miles. The rotors look and work perfectly.

Same thing with a Toyota Corolla and the Accord....no need to have the rotors cut.

If you feel the pedal vibrating or see damage to the rotor, then by all means get them measured and cut. Usually rotor replacement is easier at that point anyway.
 

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Some questions guys:

How much depth is the caliper with the piston protracted? The reason i asked has something to do with my 2nd question. I have a channellock with working jaw of 4 inches. Would it be enough to compress the piston (used with old pads) or am i better off buying a caliper compression tool?
My third extra querry is about HARBOR FREIGHT CALIPER PISTON SERVICE TOOL KIT. Can this be used for the fronts?

I have a C-clamp i used long time ago servicing my other car and i can still remember its somewhat pain in the ass to use on compressing the front caliper piston, good thing someone has borrowed it and hasnt returned it yet so i can buy some new tools :)
Thanks a lot guys.
 

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just to update my above post, my 4 inch channellock is sufficient for the compress but a 6 inch is much better if you have one.
SECONDLY, i wouldnt know if that harbor freight would be applicable for the front piston compression as i have'nt bought it, but i can vouch for using my rod on my BEARING PULLER to compress my front brake piston. just be careful and make sure it is centered on the piston so you would have a uniform compression of the piston on its bore.

of the two, i would use my bearing puller to compress the piston.
 

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guys, i was trying to replace the front break pads last night, but I couldn't get the lower bolt off (bolt B from the picture on the first page). I sprayed some WD40 hoping it would loosen up.. Can you give me several different ideas of how to get that bolt off?
 

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guys, i was trying to replace the front break pads last night, but I couldn't get the lower bolt off (bolt B from the picture on the first page). I sprayed some WD40 hoping it would loosen up.. Can you give me several different ideas of how to get that bolt off?
go to an auto parts store and get some penetrant - "PB blaster" is a good one...soak it overnight or for hours - use a fresh clean socket on it..be careful not to round it off...
 
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