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Cruzing Through Life!
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Do you remember what size clamp? 6 inch?

The C clamp set we had was rusted pretty bad. It was left in a box that had collected rain. So I'm wanting to buy another C clamp or a specific caliber piston tool (not too expensive) of course. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks.
The other guys are correct about how you drive and where you drive.
A six inch C clamp will work fine but if you are going to purchase a brake tool, search for caliper brake tool or click this link.
https://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php
They are sold many places for under US$10.

Rotors, there is no need to consider changing them unless they are warped, have grooves or have been turned too many times. You can also check the thickness with a micrometer.

As for pads, do a visual and compare to pictures of new pads you have seen here. If you start hearing a squeal when you stop, it means the pads are down to the wear indicator and you need to change them now. If you hear grinding, it means you waited to long and you now need pads and rotors. I did that once when I was young, boy was my dad pissed, rotors were expensive back in the 1980s.

Search and do your homework befor you ask more questions!
Hope this helps! ;-)
 

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WAY too many variables to pin down the best answer for you. One variable is that I drive my faster V6 harder up and down mountains than @Drew03Accord drives his daughter's slower i4 around the flat desert town of El Paso so we'll have much different rates of wear. Get the pic?
The biggest factor I've personally seen for brake pad wear is pad composition. Semi metallics and organics will wear out fast and dust up your wheels faster. Ceramics will outlast them by 2-3 times, but they are tougher on a rotor, meaning it will heat up the rotors more and have a higher chance of warping.

My lady's car had lifetime warranty on some cheap semi-metallic pads from Autozone. Like clockwork, I was replacing them once a year, sometimes lasting less than a year. A few years ago, I went to replace a set, only to find that they had completely eaten through the rotors. I mean deep grooves which would have disintegrated the rotors, if left for much longer. Turns out they must have had the incorrect amount of metal in them. I took them back to Autozone and they gave me a set of ceramic pads, but wouldn't replace the rotors because they were not "purchased from them." I ended up getting the rotors from Advance. As I said, that was few years now on the same ceramics.
 

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Do you remember what size clamp? 6 inch?

The C clamp set we had was rusted pretty bad. It was left in a box that had collected rain. So I'm wanting to buy another C clamp or a specific caliber piston tool (not too expensive) of course. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks.


Just get a cheap 6" or so C-Clamp. The trick is to use either the old brake pad or a small piece of wood in between the C-Clamp and the piston. Evens the pressure out and actually makes it very easy to retract the caliper piston.
 

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I put akebono pads on my car nearly 2 years ago and they've barely worn at all. And yes I do a lot of stop and go driving and occasionally have to brake from 65-70mph.
 

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I put akebono pads on my car nearly 2 years ago and they've barely worn at all. And yes I do a lot of stop and go driving and occasionally have to brake from 65-70mph.
I too am using akebono (after-market), I forgot which ones, but when I checked their site, I noticed they now have 3 different grades. Do you remember which set you got, and how's the brake sound?
 

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I too am using akebono (after-market), I forgot which ones, but when I checked their site, I noticed they now have 3 different grades. Do you remember which set you got, and how's the brake sound?
ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic I think. They grab VERY well, they're silent, not too much dust, and the cost was very reasonable.
 

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at 305,000 on my 07 and rotors are original....
How about now? Is this real? I was trying to research front brake / rotor replacement, but some have said that it's cheap to just replace the rotors as well when doing the brake pads? But those rotor screws are stuck on mines; so I'm wondering if I should just take it to a shop. Or can I just drill the old ones off?

I have an impact wrench, but it hasn't worked and I'm afraid of striking heavier blows.
 

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But those rotor screws are stuck on mines; so I'm wondering if I should just take it to a shop. Or can I just drill the old ones off?

I have an impact wrench, but it hasn't worked and I'm afraid of striking heavier blows.
NEVER, EVER mess with mines or transport them to a shop. If something is stuck on mines, ask yourself, "Is it worth getting blown up in order to get this item?" Most likely, the answer is "no". Mines kill- don't hit them with a hammer.

Google
"driveaccord.net how to remove rotor screws"

Plenty of threads and suggestions...

Do you remember this excellent thread?:
 
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