[USMCA1]

While doing a simple brake pad change this weekend, i took off the drivers front wheel and found that the sway bar link was not connected to the wheel assy, to be honest i have no idea how long it has been like this because i havent had the wheel off in quite some time. I did notice the wheel pulling to the left on certain road imperfections before but i took this as bad tires. Anyway back to my issues, after finally getting the link seating back on the bushing and getting the wheel back on I now heard a loud clunking coming the drivers side. This started on Saturday and got worse yesterday with what felt like really loose steering, if that makes any sense. The sound doesnt change with speed or direction of turn. I havent had a change to get it back on stands but any thoughts? I was thinking it could be the tie rod or the wheel bearing, if it is the tie rod is there any easier way to determine the inner from outer one being the problem other than disconnecting the outer from the hub assy and seeing if it holds in the up position? Any help would be awesome as the car is not undriveable and taking it in is really not an option.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Run the car up on some ramps then turn the key to the first position where the steering wheel doesn't lock. Get under the car then have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth. You should be able to pinpoint the location. You may want to have it in neutral and chock the back wheels too.

 

[Yal]

Might need a new link.

 

[redbullfan]

Its probably bad bushings

 

[CarlR33]

"come on man", you cannot pop back on the sway bar end with your hand and it is fixed. The clunking you still hear is the end popped back out.

I just had the same issue with my car and had both ends replaced. They break simply due to wear and age. Get a Moog brand end links and they come with grease fittings.

It cost me around less than $100 for labor and around $100 total for the link ends. Unless you have a torch to cut them off or good luck with liquid wrench, etc then I would have someone else do it for you.

 

[USMCA1]

Did the link come with the 2 ball end bolts? I have cutting tools which I figured I was going to need. And believe me I did not get it back easily, I had the assistance of some channel cks and was able to get it to pop back in. I won't be able to get it up in the air until tomorrow and thanks to gov't preparations, they have closed the auto shop so its jack stands for this guy. Aside from doing the check for free play in the wheel, assuming the link is still connected, anything other tricks Yall have up the proverbial sleeve to check for issues, aside from the obvious look for what stands out?

 

[616Nickel]

I'm going to piggyback on this thread because I have a similar problem. The front end of my 2003 I4 5AT sedan rattles on mildly uneven pavement. Usually it seems to happen when only one of the front wheels encounters a crack or a manhole cover (etc.), and it's more of an issue on small bumps than large ones.

I've had these exact symptoms occur on two other cars in the past, and in both cases I resolved it by replacing the sway bar endlinks. So that's what I did here, replaced all four at once. Unfortunately, that wasn't the problem this time, since the rattle's still there.

I'm thinking it's either sway bar bushings or bad struts. Any good diagnostic tips or alternative diagnoses? I'd like it to be sway bar bushings, since they're super-cheap, but from reading the thread on the Acura TL-S sway bar replacement, it looks like they might be a bear to get out on the I4 Accord. True?

 

[t-rd]

There are reports from the TL guys that the Moog rear end links with the grease fitting actually leak grease like mad after a while and the boots don't seal well. If you want to get Moog, get the front ones, which are sealed. I just ordered these myself. Stick with stock ones for the rear.

And you should install the new ones with the suspension loaded. So have the front end on the jack stands, then jack up the brake rotor which loads the front suspension.

 

[USMCA1]

OK there was no play in the wheel at all up or down or side to side and the drivers side link was loose. I will be replacing that one but there also felt like some play in the sway bar when I grabbed it and gave it a tug. The bushings looked good and to be honest after looking at the FSM I really don't want to engage in the project of changing those if I don't have to. If that link was disconnected long enough could it have warped the sway bar. Would y'all recommend changing both links or just the one that is bad. And a question to anyone who has changes these, how much of a load should I put on the away with the floor jack when installing them?

 

[CarlR33]

The ones I purchased were from Advance (Moog) and did have the grease fittings and do come with the nuts.

Just replace both sides and no it most likely did not do any damage to the sway bar as on one side it was disconnected and the other connected side just pushed the bar back and fourth in the bushings.

 

[jimijam]

1) If that link was disconnected long enough could it have warped the sway bar.
2)Would y'all recommend changing both links or just the one that is bad.
3)And a question to anyone who has changes these, how much of a load should I put on the away with the floor jack when installing them?

1) Nope.
2) Do both. Get the Moogs. You can get them cheaper at RockAuto with the "Private Label Pkg" that are less than $9 each.
3) You probably won't need to put any load on the bar at all. When you crawl under there, do whatever you need to do to get the new link installed.

 

[npolite]

Sorry for bringing up an old post but I thought I would ask.

I just replaced the link ends on my 07 TSX. I had brought the car in for something on the right side not sounding right going over certain bumps. They had diagnosed it as an issue with the right lower control arm bushings and the link end. Seeing that I would end up having to pay an hour for their diagnostic fee, I told them to replace the bushings and I would take care of the link end. And yes I only have 68k miles!

I replaced the link end on Friday. Using Kroil and PB Blaster for 5 days really helped out and it wasn't as bad but far from being easy. I jacked up the lower control arm to line up everything, used anti-seize (why on gods earth manufactures don't use this and make everyone's life easier is beyond me) and tightened as much as I could with a wrench. I didn't need to use the hex wrench so I'm not sure if they are tight enough. I don't know if it is even possible to get a torque wrench anywhere near both bolts. I still hear the noise and I am wondering if I didn't do something correctly or it was not a proper diagnosis by the dealer.

Anyone that can comment on my procedure or issue, I would appreciate it.

Edit: Ok I found out I need to use a crowfoot for the link end that attaches to the lower control arm. I'm going to properly torque these and see if it helps.

 

[npolite]

Here is an update. I went out and bought the crows foot 14mm and a smaller torque wrench. Total was $20 so I'm not worried about getting the parts.

I set the torque wrench to 22 ft/lbs and with the crows foot attempted to tighten the one attached to the lower control arm. That one clicked immediately so it was fine.

I went and got a 14 mm socket and tightened the one to the sway bar and that wasn't tight. I had to put some effort but got that one to 28 ft/lbs.

This time once again I didn't need to use the hex wrench to hold the screw in place.

Sadly the issue is still there. I've seen a few videos where the crank the heck out of the screw. I think this will need to go once again to the dealer. This time I am going to escalate this with Honda/Acura if the dealer doesn't offer a significant discount. Either I had a misdiagnosis which I am out $500, or I have a complete failure of the right suspension which Honda needs to investigate. 68k miles I should not be having all of these issues.

 

[ClarenceBodiger]

This goes for all of you that have first checked the sway bar links.
Check your upper ball joints next.
I had name brand replacements that failed within a year, producing all of the same symptoms previously described.
(This time I bought OEM for the same price as Autozone, and no need for a ball joint press.)

 

[npolite]

Anyone who has done the link ends, can you comment if you needed to use the hex wrench when tightening the nut for the link ends? I'm trying to find out if this is my problem or something else. As I mentioned I torqued both sides to what is recommended in the Helm manual.

 

[thaghost87]

I've replaced many of these on different types of cars as well as accords. I've never had to tighten an end link with a hex socket holding the stud while tightening the nut unless it was old and worn. All the new ones you should just be able to run on with an impact then torque. I would assume though that if you were doing it with a ratchet that you might have to hold the stud with a hex because there may not be enough ratcheting speed to overcome the resistance of the nut and threads.

If the nut is tight and there isn't play in the joint, then there shouldn't be noise coming from it

 

[t-rd]

I did use a hex key while tightening. I was using hand tools. I was tightening the nut when it got to a point that it was turning the whole thing. I put in a hex key and wedged it against the control arm so it wouldn't, then I was able to tighten some more.

 

[npolite]

Yeah on my TSX I usd my torque wrench and it clicked so I am at the correct spec. Otherwise I would assume that it wouldn't click. The only thing is that the specs are 28 ft/lbs for one, while the other is only 22ft/lbs. On most Accords I have seen this at around 28-30 for each side.

I just want to be certain before taking it back to the dealer. I feel had on both this part and the $460 I spent for the bushings for the LCA and the issues I originally brought it into the dealer for still is there.

 

[03EX]

Yeah on my TSX I usd my torque wrench and it clicked so I am at the correct spec. Otherwise I would assume that it wouldn't click. The only thing is that the specs are 28 ft/lbs for one, while the other is only 22ft/lbs. On most Accords I have seen this at around 28-30 for each side.

I just want to be certain before taking it back to the dealer. I feel had on both this part and the $460 I spent for the bushings for the LCA and the issues I originally brought it into the dealer for still is there.

Check upper ball joints. That's a common area of wear in Accords, though I would expect problems at maybe 100,000+ miles, not 68k miles like in your case.

I'm in a similar situation as you, though my Accord has about double the miles. Have a slight clunking over some low-speed bumps from one side. Replaced both end links and both front strut assemblies, and the issue is mostly still there. My shop told me that my upper ball joint on that side has a tiny bit of slop (they consider it within tolerances), so maybe that's what's causing the clunk.

 

[t-rd]

Take a large pry bar to both the upper and lower ball joints, try to pry and see how much movement you have. I replaced the front driver's side upper ball joint + arm ( I don't have a bushing press) at around 120k miles. I was getting a clunk also, after that, less clunk. Then I replaced the front end links, less clunk, but still there. The last thing I have is the LCA.