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jakes29

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Greetings!

Anyone have step by step instructions on removal and installation of a fuel filter for a 2000 accord EX? I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks!
 
There is no replaceable fuel filter used for the 99 or 00 Accords. The only "filtration" is the suction strainer attached to the bottom of the fuel pump inside the gas tank. The strainer is normally changed only when the fuel pump is replaced. A factory service manual would have all the details.

Good Luck
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thank you sir. Guess I won't be doing that today!
Maybe someone has some ideas on how to fix my problem. I am experiencing what I refer to as "rough idle" upon deceleration. Yesterday it happened three times as I was slowing down to a red light, my rpms dropped so low that all my gauges dropped to zero, clock went off, radio went off, like the engine died. All this happened in less than a second and as I accelerated, everything was fine. I was thinking I may replace the fuel filter but it appears that it is inside the fuel pump. I have also done the following:
1. new plugs
2. new air filter
3. 100% fuel
4. plenty of gas in tank

Any ideas as to what could be causing my engine to die on deceleration? I think I will get some fuel injector cleaner today. Any other ideas? Thanks!
 
There are two filters in the system.

The strainer at the bottom of the pump assembly and the filter, which is the top half of the pump module.

You have to pull the unit out of the tank and disassemble it to replace the upper filter.

If you have high mileage, is it worth disassembling a pump module without just replacing the whole thing?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Maybe someone has some ideas on how to fix my problem. I am experiencing what I refer to as "rough idle" upon deceleration. Yesterday it happened three times as I was slowing down to a red light, my rpms dropped so low that all my gauges dropped to zero, clock went off, radio went off, like the engine died. All this happened in less than a second and as I accelerated, everything was fine. I was thinking I may replace the fuel filter but it appears that it is inside the fuel pump. I have also done the following:
1. new plugs
2. new air filter
3. 100% fuel
4. plenty of gas in tank

Any ideas as to what could be causing my engine to die on deceleration? I think I will get some fuel injector cleaner today. Any other ideas? Thanks!
see above for problem. Any ideas?
 
If the engine stalls or nearly so, you shouldn't be losing all electrical stuff like the radio, gauges and stuff. Have you had the ignition switch recall done?

That is very odd. How does it crank over when starting? Normally?

As the rpm drops, the alternator does lose a little output, but you shouldn't have a total loss of electrical power. That sure sounds like what's happening.

When you slow down, does it feel like a manual trans if you forget to depress the clutch when going to slow?

The next time it's doing this, put it into neutral, does it die or keep running?
 
Thank you sir. Guess I won't be doing that today!
Maybe someone has some ideas on how to fix my problem. I am experiencing what I refer to as "rough idle" upon deceleration. Yesterday it happened three times as I was slowing down to a red light, my rpms dropped so low that all my gauges dropped to zero, clock went off, radio went off, like the engine died. All this happened in less than a second and as I accelerated, everything was fine. I was thinking I may replace the fuel filter but it appears that it is inside the fuel pump. I have also done the following:
1. new plugs
2. new air filter
3. 100% fuel
4. plenty of gas in tank

Any ideas as to what could be causing my engine to die on deceleration? I think I will get some fuel injector cleaner today. Any other ideas? Thanks!
That might be a transmission solenoid problem. I saw something like that with a torque converter clutch solenoid. What happens is the torque converter locks up at constant speeds to eliminate slippage in the torque converter, thereby increasing efficiency. I ran into the problem with a 92 cutlass. On that car a sticking TCC solenoid would kill the engine decelerating, and sometimes causing a terrible lurching. After the car cooled down the solenoid would free up, and it was like nothing happened.

The strange thing is that the car's computer should be timing the solenoid engagements down to milliseconds. I find it strange that you aren't getting any codes with that big of a problem...
 
If you can redline your engine at WOT (in gear, obviously), your fuel pump/filter is fine. It can be a myriad of things, so you have to systematically eliminate possibilities (and there're A LOT), before throwing money at parts that might be perfectly fine. Good luck.
 
What kind of spark plugs did you use? any cel? You can have them read at Autozone for free if there is a cel. Write the code down so it can be interpreted for you.

I had a similiar problem to yours and it was the fuel pressure regulator. Had a cel that said it was running lean.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
What kind of spark plugs did you use? any cel? You can have them read at Autozone for free if there is a cel. Write the code down so it can be interpreted for you.

I had a similiar problem to yours and it was the fuel pressure regulator. Had a cel that said it was running lean.
I believe I used NGK plugs. I don't have a check engine light on. I have a maintenance required light on bc I havent reset it since changing my oil last but no CEL.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
If you can redline your engine at WOT (in gear, obviously), your fuel pump/filter is fine. It can be a myriad of things, so you have to systematically eliminate possibilities (and there're A LOT), before throwing money at parts that might be perfectly fine. Good luck.
What is WOT? thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
If the engine stalls or nearly so, you shouldn't be losing all electrical stuff like the radio, gauges and stuff. Have you had the ignition switch recall done?

That is very odd. How does it crank over when starting? Normally?

As the rpm drops, the alternator does lose a little output, but you shouldn't have a total loss of electrical power. That sure sounds like what's happening.

When you slow down, does it feel like a manual trans if you forget to depress the clutch when going to slow?

The next time it's doing this, put it into neutral, does it die or keep running?
I haven't had the ignition switch recall done, I was not aware of it. It cranks over just fine(normally) when starting
When I was at a red light, I put it in neutral and it most likely would have died had I not given it some gas to keep it from dying.
This all happened on saturday and it has not done it since, maybe the car was just mad at me that day. Thanks for your input!
 
The ignition switch recall wasn't for cranking, it was for dying while driving, as the contacts burn inside the switch and all of the stuff that's supposed to be on, shuts down.

When you crank the car, watch the dash lights carefully. Do they flicker or flash on and off as you rotate the key to the start position?
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
The ignition switch recall wasn't for cranking, it was for dying while driving, as the contacts burn inside the switch and all of the stuff that's supposed to be on, shuts down.

When you crank the car, watch the dash lights carefully. Do they flicker or flash on and off as you rotate the key to the start position?
I will pay attention to this next time I start the engine. How would I go about getting this recall taken care of?
 
I will pay attention to this next time I start the engine. How would I go about getting this recall taken care of?
Call the local dealer. If the first one said it was already done I'd call a few more dealers just to make sure. Also about the spark plugs..the car is picky about using whats specified in the owners manual.(Ngk's)
 
If you register with Honda's owner link website, it can tell you if you have outstanding recalls on the car. You can also keep maintenance records on the car there as well, among other things.
 
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