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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I'm getting ready to do the timing belt on my 2005 Accord EX. Its got 122K miles on it and hasnt had the TB done. I've never done a TB before but have been doing basic maintenance on my cars for quite a while and am not super concerned about tackling this job.

I realize the crank bolt is going to be a massive pain and am currently soaking it in liquid wrench every night for the week. I have the 50mm Honda crank tool on order as well as 3/4" 40 in breaker bar and some 3/4" extensions.

I also have an OEM Timing Belt kit on order that comes with the water pump, tensioner, belt, and idlers.

Assuming I am able to get the crank pulley bolt free, I have all the other tools necessary to get the job done.

However, my main concern is setting the timing right. I've looked at a couple of DIY videos/writeups and even the factory service manual and am a bit confused as to getting and maintaining TDC during the TB change.

So my understanding is that if the crank pulley is lined up at the TDC marking on the engine block, the front cam gear will show a "1" through the portal on the plastic cover, correct?

Is it then necessary to also check the rear cam? Basically, Im asking if its possible for the crank and the front cam to be at TDC and NOT have the rear cam at TDC? Once the crank is at TDC and one cam shows TDC, the other will have the same reading on it, correct?

Now another concern of mine is that I've read that the rear cam has a tendency to walk when it is at TDC and the TB is removed. If this happens, what is the appropriate way to remedy the situation and bring everything back to TDC - do you just physically spin the cam back to TDC?

If anyone would care to walk through the process of setting the timing potato head style, I would appreciate it.

Thanks all! :thmsup:
 

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When I did it on my 03, I just lined up the crank and that was it. Everything was lined up

The rear cam sprocket moved on me probably 2 or 3 times, in both directions. Every time it moved I just brought it back with a wrench, in the opposite direction of when it jumped. On the last attempt it just stayed in place, and I was just careful when routing the belt

Some people have said removing the spark plugs prevents the sprocket from moving
 

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03 EX V6, and 6 others
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The mark the cams line up with is actually stamped on the head.

I have the engine out of my wife's car now to do the same thing (no, you don't have to remove the engine).

If you need any close up pics before you start, let me know.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The mark the cams line up with is actually stamped on the head.

I have the engine out of my wife's car now to do the same thing (no, you don't have to remove the engine).

If you need any close up pics before you start, let me know.

Jim
Thanks Jim,

I should be OK with finding the marks, no need to bother you for photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When I did it on my 03, I just lined up the crank and that was it. Everything was lined up

The rear cam sprocket moved on me probably 2 or 3 times, in both directions. Every time it moved I just brought it back with a wrench, in the opposite direction of when it jumped. On the last attempt it just stayed in place, and I was just careful when routing the belt

Some people have said removing the spark plugs prevents the sprocket from moving
So you just put a wrench on the cam sprocket nut and moved it back toward proper alignment?
 

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Did my TB last weekend , pretty easy to do.. the crank pulley was the hardest thing to get off used the PB blaster couple days before, tried the 1/2'' air gun didn't work...tried the breaker bar with the tool thingey(24")didn't work ... tried starting it with the breaker bar wedged against the ground still didn't come out ....finally got it off with a 3/4" air gun,came right off . just mark the belt with a silver sharpie pen,line up all the old marks with the new ones and don't take the old one off until you mark every thing.have fun with those back timming cover bolts.
 

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So you just put a wrench on the cam sprocket nut and moved it back toward proper alignment?
Yup. This was probably the only thing that scared me about doing the job, was getting this right, as mine jumped on me a couple times as well. Just put the wrench on it and turn it where it needs to be.

You need to take all the covers off to do the job, so before you loosen anything, sping the crank around so it is at TDC, and everything else will be where you need it.

Use the special tool for the crank pulley bolt. I went to O'Rielly and they rent it to you for free. (You buy it, and get your money back when you return it.) Yeah, that SOB is very difficult to get off. Lots of breaker bar extensions like it sounds you are preparing for.

Other than my big hands trying to fit by strut tower to get the rear cover on, its not a bad job to do.

Edit:
Oh, and follow the book on how to put the belt on.......
 

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Since we on the subject of timing belts...

Mine Honda is at 140,100 miles now and i took it in for an oil change and brake fliud flush. After all said and done, my service adviser recommended my timing belt changed and it'll be $913.00 to have it done. I know I can use my wildcard savings coupons I get every month knocking 15% off. But, At 140K does this mean it's never been changed at all or what? Secondly, is there a difference between honda oem parts and aftermarket Firestone parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
But, At 140K does this mean it's never been changed at all or what? Secondly, is there a difference between honda oem parts and aftermarket Firestone parts?
If you took it to Firestone, they have no clue if it has been changed or not. They look at a boiler plate maintenance schedule and they recommend any and all work they think they can convince you to approve - whether you need it or not. You could've had the TB done last week and they would still be recommending it because they are only looking at what your odometer reads.

How long have you had the car? Look at the serpentine belt on the motor, if its old and ratty, chances are that you are on your original timing belt

Also, there is a WORLD of difference between 'Firestone' part and Honda OEM. You can get away with an aftermarket belt, but if you go Chinese quality for your waterpump, you will likely regret it. Its not that much more for OEM parts in this case and definitely go with an OEM waterpump and gasket at least.
 

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I would mark the old belt and sprockets (top of cam sprockets, and bottom of crank sprocket) before removing it. Then transfer the marks on the old belt to the new belt, so you know everything is lined up. When I did the timing belt I found that the rear cam was slightly off (half a tooth maybe) from the TDC marks, but it was off the same with the old and new belt, and everything turned out just fine. Good luck with that crank bolt, I had no luck with it until I used a 1" drive impact gun.
 

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If you took it to Firestone, they have no clue if it has been changed or not. They look at a boiler plate maintenance schedule and they recommend any and all work they think they can convince you to approve - whether you need it or not. You could've had the TB done last week and they would still be recommending it because they are only looking at what your odometer reads.

How long have you had the car? Look at the serpentine belt on the motor, if its old and ratty, chances are that you are on your original timing belt

Also, there is a WORLD of difference between 'Firestone' part and Honda OEM. You can get away with an aftermarket belt, but if you go Chinese quality for your waterpump, you will likely regret it. Its not that much more for OEM parts in this case and definitely go with an OEM waterpump and gasket at least.
I had the car for a year now. I brought it at 122, 889 miles but i'll take a look tomorrow and see if it's old and ratty. I'll ask my Honda dealership what work is done considering it's $913. My thing is I wanna have it done right the first time considering this is a TB we're talking about. I remember having my axle's replaced at Firestone and I had to take it back in cause the axle's snapped and broke. Luckily I had a warranty on it.
 

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My cousin had a timing belt done at one of those oil change shops. They messed something up, the belt shredded while he was driving and ruined the motor, luckily they had to cover it so...


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My cousin had a timing belt done at one of those oil change shops. They messed something up, the belt shredded while he was driving and ruined the motor, luckily they had to cover it so...


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
.... See that's what i'm saying. Again imma take a look at the belt tomorrow morning, but once I get my wildcard savings for this month, I'm definitely getting my TB changed at Honda. I don't wanna be too cheap with my Honda.
 

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Don't ever go to a chained "shop" for work. They are under qualified and over priced :thumbsdow (FireStone, NTB, Pepboys, Wal*Mart, etc.) The only thing I would ever trust their "mechanics" with would be a tire rotation and MAYBE an alignment lol

If you care anything about your car, take it to a genuine Honda dealership or a reputable private mechanic that you can build a relationship/rapport with. If both of those options are too costly for the work needed done and you have the tools - DIY :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK!

So the crank bolt gave up with little fight. The crank immobilizer tool, plus my 40 in 3/4 breaker bar plus a week's worth of liquid wrench soaking did wonders.

So objective one complete and on to the mission...

I have my motor at Cylinder #1 TDC right now. I see on the front cam cover the cylinder 1 mark lined up exactly on the pointer (although on my cam sprocket there, is no '1' but I went through 2,3,4,5,6 and the only there is only one cylinder with no number).

Anyway, while my #1 is at TDC according to my front cam, the rear cam window shows the mark to be slightly off. Im not a 100% sure this isnt the weird angle Im looking at it, but it does look a bit off. I want to make sure Im not missing something here. If I pull the covers off and the front ca is perfectly aligned at #1 but the rear cam is still off a bit, is there anyway to correct this - i.e. physically move the rear cam, or should I proceed with taking the belt off as long as I've marked it properly?
 

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Proceed

It was a while ago that I did the timing belt on the 03, but I think I remember the rear cam also being very slightly off. Since everything else lined up, I didnt worry about it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Proceed

It was a while ago that I did the timing belt on the 03, but I think I remember the rear cam also being very slightly off. Since everything else lined up, I didnt worry about it
Actually, once I pulled the front cover off, it was apparent I was slightly misaligned. I re-spun the motor and both cams look to be on the correct mark now.
 
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