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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday day I noticed a burning smell when I got home from work. Tonight I noticed the parking brake was loose and since it was dark I was able to see that the rear passenger rotor was cherry red hot. After taking everything apart I found that the inner pad has some odd wear (in addition to both pads and rotors being glazed). Any idea what might cause this kind of pad wear? It’s tapered in both directions.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sorry, that front shot is the outer pad, here’s the inner

image-2021-07-21-23:16:18-775.jpg
 

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Happy Accord Owner
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Those pads are definitely worn out and need to be replaced. With the low price of rotors, I would replace the pads and rotors. With everything apart, inspect your caliper pins to ensure nothing is sticking, which could cause uneven wear. Whenever you do brake maintenance take out the pins and wipe off all the old grease and relube them with the proper lube (sil glyde).
 

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Up front, I know nothing about your maintenance history. that being said, it's a 9th gen, so at least 3 years old by now.

Replace pads
Replace rotors
Replace/bleed brake fluid (should be done every 3 years regardless of miles)
Inspect/lubricate calipers and slide pins, making sure that the brakes do not stick.
Check emergency brake lever and cable, this may have been the culprit if the cable did not release the rear caliper.
 

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^^I concur its your caliper pins. I went through this earlier in the year with one of my rear calipers. The pin on the side with the most wear is stuck.
You should be able to pull the pins out easily. Good luck I had to replace my caliper mount because I couldnt get the pin out, but that design had the pin in the mount and it was cheap. If its stuck in the caliper that design will need you to replace the caliper
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. I just ordered a Power Stop caliper pad and rotor kit off Rock Auto. $280 after the core return (plus tax and next day shipping). I also suspect the parking brake assembly is junked up, the slide pins move freely. I’ll be sure to double check the parking brake cables. Easier just to replace everything than to monkey with it but there goes the weekend.
 

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BRWNFLSH now
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Did you have to hammer the pads out of the caliper bracket? If so, rust buildup under the hardware could be the culprit here. Don't change pads, rotors, and caliper, then have the same thing happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, no they came out fairly easy. I haven’t fully removed the caliper yet but I’m hoping the parking brake hardware is seized…that’d make me feel better about the fix anyway


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Cruising in Montana
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Did you do any brake work prior to this? If so, maybe you forgot/didn't know to put the pin on the inner pad in the slot on the piston.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did you do any brake work prior to this? If so, maybe you forgot/didn't know to put the pin on the inner pad in the slot on the piston.
Totally didn’t realize that , makes perfect sense now. So that explains the pad wear.

I was looking at the caliper tonight and the parking brake arm is tough to push and doesn’t have any “spring back” at all. So I guess there was all kinds of stuff going on here.
 

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You don't have to replace the rotor unless it is warped or excessively worn. In addition to checking your pins, caliper surfaces, you should also check if your pistons are not corroded. It looked like your brake pads were burnt from the discoloration.
 

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You don't have to replace the rotor unless it is warped or excessively worn. In addition to checking your pins, caliper surfaces, you should also check if your pistons are not corroded. It looked like your brake pads were burnt from the discoloration.
I'd argue that getting the rotor hot enough to glow, then letting the pad sit on said glowing surface would shorten the life of the rotor enough that it is worth the extra $20 for a new rotor now and doing the job once rather than twice
 

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I'd argue that getting the rotor hot enough to glow, then letting the pad sit on said glowing surface would shorten the life of the rotor enough that it is worth the extra $20 for a new rotor now and doing the job once rather than twice
Again, if the heat caused a distortion, then it would warp. What else would happen, break apart? Where can you can a new rotor for $20?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey ya know what would of been great? If Rock Auto hadn’t overnight expressed me calipers for a Dodge Journey. Hey sorry about that we’ll get the one for your Accord right out, on Monday for Tuesday delivery…bastards.


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Again, if the heat caused a distortion, then it would warp. What else would happen, break apart? Where can you can a new rotor for $20?
From what I've read into the issue of warped/pulsing brake rotors, part of the cause is hot pads resting on hot rotors resulting in material transfer. I installed these rotors on my 2014. I actually replaced the whole set of rotors and pads for under $200 and they out performed the OEMs AND a set from Advance Auto regarding smooth braking and longevity. $22.79 for a rear rotor, the fronts were a bit more, around $30 for the small ones on the LX, and $45 on the EX-L in the OP's sig.

Either way, you won't know about warping until you try braking again with the new parts installed, and the time it take to tear it down again costs more than just buying the rotor from the start. at that price point, it is worth just installing a new part on the first try.

Rear
More Information for CENTRIC 12040068

Front

Hey ya know what would of been great? If Rock Auto hadn’t overnight expressed me calipers for a Dodge Journey. Hey sorry about that we’ll get the one for your Accord right out, on Monday for Tuesday delivery…bastards.


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That sucks, I've ordered the wrong parts from them in the past, but it was my fault, not theirs so I only had myself to blame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yep, that’s what was supposed to be included in the kit. They shipped an “equivalent” rotor
 
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