Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
long story short, was involved in a no fault collision and now my:

ABS, exclamation Icon, and TCS lights are on

never had an issue w/any of them.

codes i get are all ABS related, visual check, nothing looks damaged since its on right side and damage was primarily left drivers side


after reading through Threads, thought it could be front wheel speed sensor but codes said both Rear sensors.


1. main question: can any one describe what the Rear sensors look like? i've looked at Manual and was able to locate front

2. ABS, how often do these go out?

3. Brake Switch, should i get it?

any help is appreciated
 

·
Bob's your UNCLE ...
Joined
·
2,285 Posts
In the interest of offering advice of any sort, good or bad ...

You should probably just sell the car, and buy a Nissan or Toyota ... I think you'd be much happier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
In the interest of offering advice of any sort, good or bad ...

You should probably just sell the car, and buy a Nissan or Toyota ... I think you'd be much happier.
you know what, your not wrong there...i've thought about going back to Toyota or another Car Manufacturer

currently would i get another Honda nah, but that's this moment now


thanks for your opinion but hopefully i can get it resolved and post something beneficial to anyone who comes across what seems like a common problem w/the ABS TSC lights and more so the Wheel Speed Sensors
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
update: went to Dealer and wanted to start w/biggest part being ABS Modulator and it retials at $1,100+!

found a way better deal on a used one and hopefully this will eliminate the issue. Found brand new Wheel Speed Sensors and will post update soon:

pic of part replacing:

 

·
mobiless2
Joined
·
2,200 Posts
Honda Automotive Parts

If your getting codes for rear sensors, I would start by replacing rear sensors. Item# 25 & 26. About $20 each.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
if your handy, I would test the sensors and circuit before you just replace parts. don't just throw parts at it. you can check for continuity across the sensors circuit's at the modulator fairly easily is you have a multimeter.

despite how cheap sensors are, if your from an area that promotes rust (new England or anywhere near the ocean) you will never get them out of the knuckle. they have to be drilled out cause they get frozen in there. and when your drilling them out, all of the debris falls between the axle and the encoder. the encoder is the magnetic device that the abs sensors "reads" to determine wheel speed. when fragments of metal and debris get stuck on/between the encoder, you will still set a code cause the sensor will not be able to properly monitor the wheel speed. don't plan to just throw parts at it. people who do that end up spending more than they have to.

what codes are you getting? Open or high resist codes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
out with the old (left) in with the new (right)




i expected way more brake fluid to come out and had plenty of towels but it wasn't too bad




what did require A LOT of towels and can be dangerous is bleeding or getting the air out of the lines


as soon as i finished w/install...the brakes were super spongy or soft


thanks to Shockfire10 on V6P:

"yea on the ABS modulator your four brake lines go into it. You get a friend to pump and hold the pedal down open the bolt on one of the lines till fluid starts flowing out then close it and let off pedal do this to each one about 5 times or until there is no air bubbles its hard to tell so i did each one 5 times. Its just like bleeding the calipers.


problem with brakes, ideas? - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums


performed the step w/ my bro in law and CAUTION, you can barely unscrew the 4 lines but depending on how far its unscrewed, it can produce a small fountain shooting upward. what i did was have towels covering the unit from the electrical attached to it, underneath, and of course, covering a small version of old faithful

Brakes feel like they should, no light so far so good but i'm pessimistic



Good luck. I hope it works for you and clears the codes.
thanks! me too


If your getting codes for rear sensors, I would start by replacing rear sensors. Item# 25 & 26. About $20 each.
good stuff, i'll look into it and see how that compares w/local Honda Parts shops

in CO, there's a few very competitive ones when it comes to pricing that match or beat online prices


if your handy, I would test the sensors and circuit before you just replace parts. don't just throw parts at it. you can check for continuity across the sensors circuit's at the modulator fairly easily is you have a multimeter.

despite how cheap sensors are, if your from an area that promotes rust (new England or anywhere near the ocean) you will never get them out of the knuckle. they have to be drilled out cause they get frozen in there. and when your drilling them out, all of the debris falls between the axle and the encoder. the encoder is the magnetic device that the abs sensors "reads" to determine wheel speed. when fragments of metal and debris get stuck on/between the encoder, you will still set a code cause the sensor will not be able to properly monitor the wheel speed. don't plan to just throw parts at it. people who do that end up spending more than they have to.

what codes are you getting? Open or high resist codes?

great idea, yeah i've seen the Manual talk about checking continuity between the wires. i have a multimeter but i could use an upgrade
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
after reading through some older threads, thought it could be the Starter

tried and remove this Bolt (circled red) and it snapped from being corroded



put in new Starter and tested Alternator as well, it passed all three tests


in regards to Starter and Alternator removal, both aren't too bad...a bit time consuming and one of the harder parts being removing the metal battery tray

got Engine Codes read again and most of the serious ones went away so hopefully moving in the correct direction


next step: Ignition, wayyy harder to remove, started w/replacing the IG Coil under the dash along w/the Fuel Relay. Will be replacing both Rear Wheel Sensors and hopefully this will help/solve.


it starts now but all 3: ABS, !, TCS still on
 

·
Elvira - the car
Joined
·
3,496 Posts
it starts now but all 3: ABS, !, TCS still on
The TCS will not run if it finds a problem with the ABS. Did you clear the ABS codes?

This could be an ECU matching the ABS module. Does the ABS need to be "matched" to the ECU?

Maybe the ECU needs to be reflashed before it will recognize the ABS module.

Read this thread and see if this might help you.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/4-problems-solutions/37435-2003-honda-accord-tcs-dash-indicator-lights.html

That's a dicey procedure so USE CAUTION IF YOU DECIDE TO USE IT, I'd let the pro's touch this one. IMO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
when you replace that controller you may have to perform the vsa neutralization procedure.

if you replaced the controller then you dont have the old DTC's in the new part. The light is on because it see's a fault. If you give me your vehicle specifics i can check the procedure for you to see if you have to do any electronic procedures once its installed.

OR the part didnt fix the problem. did you check the codes again? are they the same?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
when you replace that controller you may have to perform the vsa neutralization procedure.

if you replaced the controller then you dont have the old DTC's in the new part. The light is on because it see's a fault. If you give me your vehicle specifics i can check the procedure for you to see if you have to do any electronic procedures once its installed.

OR the part didnt fix the problem. did you check the codes again? are they the same?
what info do you need about my vehicle?

2003 Accord V6 4Dr. AT

well they were mostly SRS related from the seat since i replaced them, i'm gonna check tomorrow to see what codes pop up now that the SRS light is off

Rear Wheel Speed Sensors, will try to get them in asap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
what info do you need about my vehicle?

2003 Accord V6 4Dr. AT

well they were mostly SRS related from the seat since i replaced them, i'm gonna check tomorrow to see what codes pop up now that the SRS light is off

Rear Wheel Speed Sensors, will try to get them in asap
SRS? I thought you replaced the ABS controller and still have ABS DTC's? im sorry did i miss a few posts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
SRS? I thought you replaced the ABS controller and still have ABS DTC's? im sorry did i miss a few posts?

i recently installed a TSX Seat and a Pass. OEM Honda Seat and got the SRS Unit on, after swapping Leathers, light is off

HOW TO: install TSX Seats into Accord, 4 dr.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/15-7th-generation/318202-how-install-tsx-seats-into-accord-4-dr.html


also, i'll be installing this wiring because the very 1st time i felt any sputtering, i noticed this harness wiring on the ECU was a bit loose



IG Coil (Brown left) and Fuel (Blue) relays also replaced

Brake Switch, working on it but new one didn't quite fit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
oh my apologies i thought you still had ABS issues. as far as that harness, those wires look like ignition switch wiring. Issues with that wiring could cause a magnitude of issues. so if its loose fix that before you fix anything. including the SRS.


I have seen many low batteries set SRS codes. (low module voltage codes) Im not saying you have a bad battery, im saying that the ignition switch powers the entire car, and if you think its loose, you gotta fix that first. If my memory serves me right that brown connetor connects to the ignition switch at the top of the column correct?
 

·
Elvira - the car
Joined
·
3,496 Posts
We're all over the road on this one !
 

Attachments

·
BRWNFLSH now
Joined
·
7,446 Posts
We're all over the road on this one !
Exactly! ABS, SRS, starter, ignition wiring????? First, you say you have ABS, !, and TCS lights on, then you are replacing the starter and testing the alternator? What the hell!?
 

·
Bob's your UNCLE ...
Joined
·
2,285 Posts
Exactly! ABS, SRS, starter, ignition wiring????? First, you say you have ABS, !, and TCS lights on, then you are replacing the starter and testing the alternator? What the hell!?
Ghetto modifier yo' ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
If my memory serves me right that brown connetor connects to the ignition switch at the top of the column correct?
correct. i installed it today, and yeah its a bit of a pain to get the back of the steering wheel covers off as well as the airbag but its in

Battery - brand new, less than 2 months and i've read a few older Threads about just maybe getting a bad batch battery but nothing really dims like headlights, etc.



We're all over the road on this one !
like i said, could use a lotta help w/8 codes



Exactly! ABS, SRS, starter, ignition wiring????? First, you say you have ABS, !, and TCS lights on, then you are replacing the starter and testing the alternator? What the hell!?
i'll try to explain, sry for any confusion

1. SRS - light came on only after installing TSX & OEM Honda Seat. after reinstalling original OEMs w/new leather from TSX/OEM Honda seat, no light


2. ABS, !, TCS, not related to above and started w/Ignition Coil Relay under dash inside of car on driver's side being a bit loose

since then i have been trying to pin point it by:

A. installed new Starter because Bolt broke while checking for power issues
B. checked and Alternator passed (tested Battery, Starter, Alternator because old Threads pointed to checking possible power 1st when searching what could be causing it to die out)
C. installed new Ignition Coil and other power wires Harness today
D. have got Rear Wheel Speed Sensors going in soon since i'm still getting that code


3. Under Dash Ignition Coil is definitely one of the major probs. there is a TSB about it as well where Honda was replacing them:

it is the Brown Relay far left slot. FYI you can use the 2nd Brown (2nd from left) as they are the exact same from Honda Parts lookup

also, that one part is $52.00! pretty pricey but i got a few extra from having to replace the Under Dash Box entirely a while back




if you are having starting issues and have going through the same things i have, i would replace the IG Coil Relay (use only ones that say DENSO instead of MITSUBA per TSB article)



Ghetto modifier yo' ...
hey brah thanks again for your support to another member going through some tough times
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
now this step would have to be LAST on any list if you have:

Car stopping by itself, Car not starting, Car idles but dies

this step requires drilling an Ignition bracket holding two non-movable Bolts and installing it to current Steering column w/new Bolts. Will also require getting a new Key made, Transponders for Keyless entry etc.


The piece i picked up still had the steering column attached but they will most likely be attached (Overall the design is a great feature Honda put in so someone can't just install a new Ignition Switch without some great difficulty)

it requires drilling w/a pretty good size bit removing these two Screws




it is impossible unless you saw off the Steering Column or drill those Two Bolts


basically drilled until you can use a flat head to kinda snap the head off of one (bottom one in pic, you can also gauge the size drill bit needed) Bolt is silver and gold on top to make it a tad easier to gauge drill bit size)




final pic of it off the Steering Column and just preparing for worse case scenario with this whole Car stalling, stopping on its own

 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top