Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi! Im looking for some help with hardwiring my dashcam. I have a 2006 Accord with a Nextbase 322GW Dash Cam. I am looking to hardwire it so it is only pulling power when the vehicle is on.

I tried piggybacking it off of fuses 5 (radio), 9 (front accessory sockets), 15 (heated seat), and 28 (moonroof). All 4 of these features do not work when the key is not turned in the ignition, so my thought was that any of these would work for the dashcam and would ensure it doesn't drain my battery. The only issue, is that with all of these once I removed the key the dashcam stayed powered on.

Does anyone know which fuse I should tap into for this? Is the dashcam just running off of internal battery? Is there some sort of setting I need to change?

(Currently I just unplug the cord from the dashcam when Im not in the car so it doesn't drain the battery)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Get a volt meter and make sure the fuse you are tapping doesn't have power with the ignition off. Some dashcams have a battery and stay on after the car shuts off for a little while and that could be what you're seeing, but I haven't checked the dashcam specs.

The radio fuse is probably your best bet using an add a fuse, just make sure to check for voltage across the fuse when the car is on and off to make sure it's actually off. Some accessories wait till the door is opened too, but you probably tried that already

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2005 Accord i4, EX-L, w/o NAV
Joined
·
8 Posts
I would suggest you get the right adapter and simply make use of the accessory socket.

If you still want it hardwired, you could splice into the wires that supply the accessory socket in the center console, just below the radio. You will need to take out the accessory socket and the "not-an-ashtray " to get access to the wires.

Second option is to splice into the wires that supply the second accessory socket in the storage box between the front seats. This may be easier. To access the wires, you need to remove the cupholders beside the handbrake lever.

Note: to avoid short circuits, blowing a fuse, or any other unwanted mishap,...
a) splice the positive and negative wires at different points along the wire length. (at least some 5 to 10 cm apart).
b) solder the joint if possible.
c) insulate the wires properly; use heat-shrink sleeves or a good electrical insulation tape or both.

Hope this helps.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top