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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are being hit with crazy winter weather here in the north east and my accord just started giving me heating problems. When I cold start my car the heater (or any kind of temp) will not blow. After a few minutes while driving it'll run and then 10 15 mins of driving it shuts off. What could be the cause. I made sure I topped off on coolant about a month or two ago with Prestone. Freezing right now typing this topic. I did notice that the other night my windshield was completely covered by a layer of thin ice on the inside, I wonder where all this humidity came from in the first place.


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What was in your cooling system before you "topped off"? Was it Honda blue coolant, or brand X? Or a mixture of whatever the heck the fine people at Jiffy Lube threw in there?

Manufacturers can say that their coolant is "safe for all types of vehicles", but define "safe". Did you put that Prestone in full strength, pre-mixed, or was it supposed to be diluted by you? If you diluted it, did you use distilled water or tap water? Are you in a town with a high mineral content in the water (like Reno, NV)?

How old (years/miles) was the coolant in your car before you topped off?

Is your "Recirculate" button on- driving up the inside humidity?

Do you smell a "sweet" smell or see coolant leaking anywhere (inside or outside of car?)

Are you saying the fan does not blow? Or that the fan blows but the air it blows is cold?

Are you saying that the hot air stops after 15 minutes? Or that the air flow itself stops after 15 minutes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The heater stopped working, at first it would work for a few mins and ir flow would stop altogether but now there is absolutely no air coming out hot or cold. I used prestone and the container said it could be used with all colors and did not need to be diluted, there are no puddles/smell and I have no idea when the last time coolant was topped off but I have owned the car for 2 years and it is the first time it has been topped off. I do notice there is more humidity, my windows have been fogging up all the time since the heat stopped working with recirculate on or off. I have to drive with my windows open or else they will all fog up when its really cold out.
 

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Elvira
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The heater stopped working, at first it would work for a few mins and ir flow would stop altogether but now there is absolutely no air coming out hot or cold. I used prestone and the container said it could be used with all colors and did not need to be diluted, there are no puddles/smell and I have no idea when the last time coolant was topped off but I have owned the car for 2 years and it is the first time it has been topped off. I do notice there is more humidity, my windows have been fogging up all the time since the heat stopped working with recirculate on or off. I have to drive with my windows open or else they will all fog up when its really cold out.
The humidity is probably coming from the snow you drag in on your coat and/or boots. If the fan isn't running and for some reason the flappers are stuck in recirculate, your breathing adds a lot of moisture.
Did you chck the fan circuit fuse?

Miker
 

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(After checking the fuse as Miker suggested above)

It doesn't matter what coolant you use or if the coolant is topped up if the blower fan doesn't work, the warm air must be circulated by forced air through the blower motor inside the cabin underneath the glove compartment.

IIRC your trim level does not have auto climate control mode, so try this:

1. Turn ignition switch to second position only, i.e. past the first position, but do not start the engine, turn off the radio, your dashboard should be lit up like a Christmas tree now.

2. Can you hear the fan run? if not, turn up the fan speed control knob/switch, can you hear the fan run?

If you can't, then the blower fan has likely failed, or it could be the power transistor electronics controlling the blower fan power that has failed.

The blower fan is not too difficult to remove, three fasteners from below, pull it off and jumper 12VDC power to the connector terminals to see if the fan runs, if it does then it's most likely the power transistor module that's failed, I can't tell from the shop manual exactly where it is as there are no diagrams pointing to it, but it should be obvious if you look around the blower motor area as it will be supplying power to the blower fan.

Good luck.
 

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IF the fan was runing and shut off and never ran again check the fuse switch and connections.If the fan would run for a while then shut off check the switch and connections however this is usually a sign that the motor is failing and tripping the thermal overloads.In other words the motor is getting to hot and the overloads in the windings are opening.When this happens repeatably the overloads get weak and eventually never reclose once the motor cools down.Have you tried leaving the switch in the off position and hitting the motor housing and turning it on,sometimes it will restart as the thermal overloads will reclose.Sadly this is a sign that it will fail again on the next overheat,not restart and you will have to hit it again.If this is the case you need a new fan motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I haven't had time to check fuses, but I did try leaving my ignition on II and turning the fan on... I heard the fan going for about 5 before it shut off. With this info, should I still look for fuses? The fan starts and then stops.


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Elvira
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I haven't had time to check fuses, but I did try leaving my ignition on II and turning the fan on... I heard the fan going for about 5 before it shut off. With this info, should I still look for fuses? The fan starts and then stops.


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Read Matt's post and go from there. Sounds like he knows from experience?:thmsup:

Miker
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I tried the ignition test, turning to second position. I hear the fan running for a few seconds then shuts off.

I have no idea what the fuse switch and connections are. Which fuse # am I checking? The manual points to 11. Cooling fan 21. Heater motor 9. Condenser Fan....

Also while checking my fuses, I dropped and cant find #9 Condenser Fan (20A)... What will that do? Can I use the car? I have to run out to the store and buy a new one...

On a side note, an Observation I made: when the ignition is on II; while I can hear the fan running for those few seconds, I can turn the switch for the fan ON and OFF as many times as I want and the fan runs and stops, this can go on for much longer than it would stay ON on its own... When I allow it to shut off on its own, it will not turn on again, as opposed to being able turning it ON and OFF before it shuts off on its own. I hope someone gets that Lol.
 

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If the fan starts,shuts off and can be started again it not the fuse.How long are you leaving it off when you are flipping it off and on?It also makes no difference to the fan if the car is ruining to as long as the ignition in on.I's either the control,the fan motor or a relay if there is one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Totally did nail it... Thanks guys, 50 bucks and I have heat again just in time for tonight's snow storm.:thmsup:
Glad it worked out for you. :)
 
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