Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought my first accord this past summer, first honda, really. It's a 96 non vtec lx.

Thing is a tank, let me tell you. I've put it through some shit that would kill lesser cars and it still lives.

Winter is here in Fargo and it's cold as balls, my heat has been having issues, I can't find any leaks, nothing on the ground under the car. I bled the system using a spill-free funnel and still am having heat issues. Though, slight improvement. I now get more heat (Not hot, just warm) when I have the throttle pressed. Do I need to bleed more? It seems to get up to operating temp (Gauge reads at about half way between 1/4 and 1/2) but could it still be the t-stat? Also, in case this might have something to do with it, the temp control knob seems hard to move and will not stay completely at either cold end or hot end. If there's any other info needed, let me know...

Thank you very much in advance!
 

·
Don't drink and drive
Joined
·
4,569 Posts
it's cold as balls
I don't think it gets that cold down there.


How was the coolant when you drained it? Dirty? Okayish? Clean? I wonder if the lines in the heater core are clogged.

Or your knob could be having issues.

I would do a coolant system flush. Don't remove just the petcoc k, but also the drain plug/s in the engine.

1. Drain coolant.

2. Add radiator flush+cleaner. (http://prestone.com/enmx/node/1168) Run engine till warm, shut off and let cool.

3. Drain cleaner


4. Add distilled water.

5. Run the engine till warm.

6. Stop and let cool.

7. Drain water.

8. Add coolant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Coolant looked very good. Not perfect like brand new out of the bottle, but VERY close. Better than many other vehicles I have seen. Coolant was completely flushed and cleaner run through (Stated by previous owner, I admit I do not have service records on hand) when she had the radiator replaced. I do not have time to go through that whole process until this weekend, any other ideas until then?

Another random issue that might be a symptom that recently started approximately the same time I started having heat issues, is the belts are slipping a bit and chirping here and there far and few between. Brand new belts put on in august, I have not checked any tensions on them since then. Maybe water pump isn't getting as much spin as it should? Thoughts?
 

·
Don't drink and drive
Joined
·
4,569 Posts
Yes, a faulty water pump could be the issue. When the engine is running, is there a rattle at the water pump? Kind of sounds like a diesel engine, except quieter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nope, there's been no rattles, shakes, whines or locking. My thought was that maybe the belts are broken in, a little softer, maybe a little stretched and need tightened again?
 

·
Don't drink and drive
Joined
·
4,569 Posts
Is the water pump on that driven by the serpentine or timing belt? If the car is not overheating, I don't think it would be the pump. You said drain and refill the cooling helped a little, so I was leaning towards a flush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I bled it, didn't drain it. The pump is driven by the timing belt, I believe. From what I've seen (Not looked but the once I replaced belts) and what I've researched, that seems to be accurate.

Bleeding the air out helped, but now I only get the heat when on the gas, not while stationary or not putting any load on the engine.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,848 Posts
Assume you are talking about lack of heat in the passenger compartment.

There are two main items in play, the heater core and the heater control valve, the heater core is likely under the passenger side dashboard as most/all Honda, it must allow hot coolant to flow through most of the tubing else not enough heat will get transferred to the passenger compartment, and the heater control valve in the engine compartment needs to fully open when you turn the temperature control know to full hot, else the hot coolant doesn't get into the heater core.

Heater control valve can be easily checked visually, there will be a mechanical cable on top of it to turn it 90 degrees from full open to full close, observe this movement when someone else in the car changes the temperature.

Heater core is less easy to check unless there is a major blockage, there should be an input and output tubing where the hot coolant flows in and cold(er) coolant flows out, if one tubing is hot and the other tubing is cold even with temperature set to high, then you have a blocked heater core.

It will be a pain to remove and replace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
I suspect the heater control valve is part of the issue, but it could could be the heater core is clogged with debris as there is no cabin air filter in your vehicle. I would replace the heater control valve and pull the heater core out and check it. The issue it is a lot of work to get to the heater core.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, if it's heater core, it's waiting until it's no longer in negative temps before I even begin to mess with actually taking it out. I plan on doing one more major bleed on it tomorrow right after work and seeing what happens, as well as going to just replace the t-stat to be safe as I have no idea when that was done and the car is sitting at 246k and I am going to check my belt tensions.

Until then, any other ideas, feel free to share, I'll keep everyone posted on what I figure out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
Just bought my first accord this past summer, first honda, really. It's a 96 non vtec lx.

Thing is a tank, let me tell you. I've put it through some shit that would kill lesser cars and it still lives.
I had a 95 and it survived quite a bit. I took it to 240k before murdering it, engine was still good and lost maybe 1qt of oil every 3-4k miles when I changed it.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top