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Discussion Starter #1
I just got out of the mechanic to replace the oxygen sensor (code P1157) and after I got home I plugged a OBDII scanner and no DTC codes are active or stored but got this in what is called I/M test in the scanner. Some times I get a red light (below display) other times I get a yellow light. Just want to know what each result there means and is there anything that needs to be fixed.

Thanks.

 

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Just here for the food
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EGR is a valve used to return exhaust to the intake or something like that

O2S is the oxygen sensor (perhaps your "mechanic" either didn't do what he was supposed to or didn't reset the code)

CAT most probably is for the catalytic converter. not quite sure what could be wrong in your case but i'm sure that the EGR and CAT are related somehow

EVAP i believe controls or stores fuel vapor in the tank to prevent it from escaping into the air so the car doesn't ingest it and burn it
 

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Elvira - the car
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Every OBD2 car engine has specific monitors that tell the ECU that certain sensors are working properly. Your CAT, EVAP, O2 and EGR need to be shown to the ECU that they are working. CCM is the Comprehensive Component Monitor and it's OK.
Misfire monitor is OK and the FUEL monitor is OK and the HRT I believe is the O2 heater circuit is OK.

The MISfire, CCM and FUEL monitors run continuously so they always appear OK even after a reset.

The AIR for a/c monitor and the HCAT heated Cat monitor isn't supported on the Honda (circle with the slash). Nothing to worry about with those two.

Did the mechanic clear the OBD2 because of codes? Probably.

All this screen is telling you is that certain sensors haven't seen enough use,following reset, to tell if they are working OK.

Just drive the car for a while and rescan in a couple days. Then the sensors will have had enough time and miles to "test" the readiness of the monitors.

Teezy is correct as far as what each one of those letters mean. There is a drive cycle that needs to be performed to get them all to read "OK"

Usually all it takes is to drive the car around town and a little on the hwy. Not sure if the 7gen needs the particular drive cycle or not. It can be pretty particular as such. Sometimes you need to drive 3 miles at 40mph then slow down without touching the brake or gas. slow to a stop and then drive off for another 5 minutes. Come to a complete stop, open the door, stomp your foot on the ground and whistle out the window. J/K but it can be pretty involved though.

It may be in the OM way in the back as to the drive cycle needed to reset them. I'll look in the 9gen to see if it is there. EDIT: the drive cycle IS in the 2013 manual so I would believe it's in yours also. It's under emissions.

If you need to bring the car in for EPA testing and those monitors aren't ready they will kick you out and tell you to return when they reset.


So, there's nothing wrong with the engine or the work performed, as far as we can tell from what you posted. Again wait a few days and recheck, they'll all be reset by then. Then we can tell if the work performed fixed the problem. Your O2 monitor is the one you'll want to see get a checkmark to know if the new O2 sensor fixed the code.

There is another quick check to see if the monitors are ready by putting the key into pos 2, don't start the engine but look at the dash for the engine symbol (CEL). Wait for a minute or so and watch the engine symbol. Did the engine symbol flash 5 times ? Monitors NOT set. Engine symbol goes off ? Monitors ARE set. Eazy-peazy!!

Let us know what you find out.
@teezythakidd the EVAP stores the fuel vapor so it can be burned by the engine when it starts up. If it gets blocked from overfilling the fuel tank it will set a code.
 

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Just here for the food
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Thanks for the clarification, Mike!!! Learning something new every day :cool:

OP I hope you get this situated!
 

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Elvira - the car
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Thanks for the clarification, Mike!!! Learning something new every day :cool:

OP I hope you get this situated!
That's the trick. Ever learning.

Just thought about the EVAP for @Luisr . The EVAP won't set if you drive around with a full tank. You actually need a 3/4 full, or less, tank of gas for that monitor to ready itself.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. Very useful and make sense. I only drove like 2.5 miles from the shop back home and have not gone anywhere else since then. I will wait a few days to see if anything changes. I drive about 60 miles on work days so a few of those should be enough. After I posted here I studied the manual for the scanner a bit and found another option that provides more information on the monitors than the screen I posted here. Those monitors that appear with the red X show as "INC" in the other display and according to the manual it means that "a particular monitor being checked had not completed its diagnostig testing". This agrees with what Miker said.

I am with half tank at this time, so the EVAP monitor should clear itself soon.

I will come back in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Found this on page 350 of the manual:

Readiness Codes

Your car has certain ‘‘readiness codes’’ that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure
these codes are set. If they are not set, the test cannot be completed.

If your car’s battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are erased. It takes several days of driving under various conditions to set the codes again. If possible, do not take your car for a state emissions test until the readiness codes are set. To check if they are set, turn the ignition ON (II), but do not start the engine. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp will come on for 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks 5 times, the readiness codes are not set. See State
Emissions Testing on pages 374 and 375.

Yeap, it is doing the blinking thing.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Alright it is all green now!! :banana:

It stopped the blinking thing last night after driving a bit in highway and another on urban roads. The scanner confirmed everything is fine.

 

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Elvira - the car
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Thank you for following up Luisr.

It usually only takes a few drives to get them to ready themselves. Looks like the new O2 fixed the problem and code.

Happy Motoring!
 

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Reflections Auto Detail
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When I bought my car last year, it was mandatory that it go in for emissions testing because it came from another state. I pretty much knew going in that it needed both pre-cats replaced. After replacing them, I was unaware of the ridiculously specific criteria that must be met to make all the systems ready. I had paid for a 30 day temp registration when I got the car and by the time I got all the repairs done, I had only 3 days left to get it tested and passed so I could register it. I almost lost my mind trying to satisfy the ECU and make all systems ready! :rant::furious::censored::laugh
 

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Back when I replaced my downstream O2 sensor, the CEL cleared itself within a quarter mile of driving.
 
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