[STLmayor]

If you know the 7th gen Accords then you'll enjoy this rabbit hole I'm going down!

2006 Honda Accord 4cyl 2.4L LX-SE. 190k miles, this is my girlfriends car, runs great. It's taking about 2.5 seconds of key cranking before the Accord turns over and starts. If it's a cold morning and the car has been sitting all night, it can take almost 3.5 seconds of cranking before turning over. A few times this weekend it would die during cranking, but I'm unsure if she just didn't hold the key long enough or what happened. I witnessed it die during cranking twice this weekend, and internal lights remained on but cranking did die. Presumably not battery, presumably alternator or starter or fuel/air flow? Let the rabbit hole commence:

1) Air filter dirty, replaced.
2) Air intake hose is dry rotted (I cracked it upon getting to the airfilter), replaced air intake hose. (noticed throttle body has black carbon buildup along the disc edge)
3) O'Reilly's did free battery/alternator/whatever test, all passed with flying colors.
4) O'Reilly's salesman made a case for using an $8 bottle of some sort of Lucas Oil fuel additive, recommended against seafoam so I don't eat away everything inside. Figured why not. I've always thought this stuff was snake oil, but what do I know. Drove until tank was almost completely empty, pulled up to gas station, poured in the additive, then filled up the gas tank.

First crank after additive was added, was failed - not sure if gf just didn't hold key the whole time or what. She tried again but this time while pressing the gas pedal slightly, still no luck. I got in and cranked while pressing the gas pedal down hard, Accord turned over successfully. I drove for 30 min at highway speeds. Hasn't died since, but still taking a long crank until turning over.

Just based off all this, what do you think is the likely cause of this slow start?

I spent hours on this forum and on YouTube. Here's what I've tried/evaluated:
1) Key Cycle Test to prime the fuel pump: still long crank until turn over.
2) Aftermarket electronic drawing power, so I removed some aftermarket broken bluetooth device: still long crank until turn over.
3) Spark Plugs: not likely because I'm not having any misfires and the tachometer is completely stable. Is there an easy way to test them and rule them out?
4) Ignition Switch: not likely because not hearing buzzing from fuse box and not having stalls on road.
5) Battery: only 1 year old, tested at O'Reilly's.
6) Battery Cables + Ground: not likely, all connections tight, no corrosion, no bulging cord.
7) Starter Motor: not sure, because it's never not cranked. I've read here that it's recommended to bang on the starter motor, have yet to do that.
8) Throttle Body: I'll clean it this weekend. But if this was the culprit, wouldn't I have issues with acceleration and low/high idling?

This car has spent much of it's life in the temperate midwest. However, there were 2 years spent in HOT New Mexico. It's been back in the midwest for the last 2 years now.

Could the starter motor have gotten damaged from heat, making it still crank but just slow to turn over?
What are some telltale signs of spark plugs needing replacement?
Fuel Pump...does the priming test not work on Accords? Is there another way to check the fuel system?

 

[jimijam]

Cliffsnotes?

 

[kolby12309]

When my starter was first going out it would start cranking normally then quickly slow to a stop or crank really slow for a few seconds and then start. When it slowed to a stop it would start with a jump. Get the battery checked and make sure all connections are not corroded or loose. Check the voltage and crank it, if it slows to a stop without the voltage dropping too low I would guess starter.

 

[enne]

Don't 7th gens have a common issue with their starters?

 

[RickBlaine]

No mileage listed. Phrases like "cranking before turning over", and "die during cranking" means I have pain in my head and my eyes rain. A video would be helpful here- could probably figure it out then.

I do like that he talked about the ignition switch- no buzzing noise from the relay.

But like the dozens of threads here that he reviewed, it is either the starter, ignition switch, relay, or battery connections.

If the ignition switch is engaged and the starter is turning the engine slowly- and the engine either starts or the starter stops turning- then it is most likely a failing/dying starter.

 

[mtts60]

Rebuild (do not replace) the starter. JohnNH has an excellent how-to. Aftermarket starters are junk, and the starter is very difficult to get to on a 4 cylinder, so you only want to do this once.

 

[RMN]

Eh my remanufactured starter has been great since 2016.

 

[big_eddy]

Doesn’t say starter turns engine over slowly. That would be the starter, battery or solenoid. Says car is slow to start. Sounds to me like it cranks and cranks and cranks before it fires. If so My money is on the fuel pump. Remove the gas cap. Put your ear to the filler pipe. Have someone turn the key to on. Should hear a short whine then stop. I’m guessing the fuel pump is failing, or not pressurizing the system before the key is turned to start. Car is not getting sufficient fuel pressure until after several seconds of cranking. No fuel pressure, no start. Once running, the increased voltage (14,7 vs 12v) keeps the fuel pump running.

Check fuel pressure before turning key, with key on, then once running.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[STLmayor]

This problem now seems to only happen on a cold day, right after a drive that lasts 5 miles or less. Trying to start the car after one of these short strips, the starter seems to crank normally, then quickly slows to a stop or cranks really slow and won't start. All the electronics are running though; air, lights, radio, so not the battery/alternator. However, if I press the gas all the way while cranking a second time, then the car starts.

If I can get the starter to successfully turn over the engine just by smashing down on the gas pedal...could this still be the starter? 😅 really hoping it's not the starter

Appreciate the helpful comments! Thanks,
Kolby:

When my starter was first going out it would start cranking normally then quickly slow to a stop...

mtts60:

[You can] rebuild the starter. JohnNH has an excellent how-to.

RMN:

...my remanufactured starter has been great since 2016.

big_eddy

Sounds to me like it cranks and cranks and cranks before it fires. If so My money is on the fuel pump. Remove the gas cap...

 

[alganis]

Upgrade your battery to the one used in the V6 Accord. I used to change my oil with Mobile 1 Extended performance to avoid cold start problems in freezing mornings. But after switching to a bigger battery, I use Walmart brand oil with no problems at all. just get a bigger battery ( the one that comes with V6 Accord) you don't need to get any other parts like the guy on the YouTube video. I've just cut the plastic cover and tray to make them fit the new bigger battery.

 

[qman]

It's taking about 2.5 seconds of key cranking before the Accord turns over and starts. If it's a cold morning and the car has been sitting all night, it can take almost 3.5 seconds of cranking before turning over.

I can't even fathom what key cranking is. Trying to picture cranking the key and can't.

"Turning over" is when the engine begins to spin and it usually takes a bit of spinning before it starts so I'm confused and my head hurts.

 

[t-rd]

If the starter and battery are good, then the cranking would continue at a fast pace. If the cranking slows or dies, then it most likely is the starter motor or the battery, more likely the battery.

No, it's not the ignition switch, otherwise, you would hear the start cut relay buzz down in the driver's side relay/fuse area.

I wouldn't trust auto zone's battery test at all. I once thought I had a good battery because it would always charge to 12.6V, but it wasn't putting out the amps due to exposed lead plates inside. The battery would drain down to 10V after just a single crank. You need to put up a voltmeter on the battery posts while cranking. It should never dip below 10V, if it it dips below that then it's the battery.

 

[DonutLimo]

Speaking of lead plates and 10V, I once had a battery that would be ok cold but then during a trip barely start my truck. Turned out that cold it was 12.5V but after heating up drop to 10V. One of the plates must have been coming loose, didn't know that was even possible.