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Accord fan
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I have a 06 Accord VP with AT with 55k miles on it. I recently (@54k miles) got the oil changed to M1-EP 5w-30, with M1-EP filter.

Before the oil change, when I step on the gas, the RPM would barely reach 2200 before the gears shifted. But, after the oil change, the RPM goes over 3000 before the gears shift from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, etc.

I got the transmission fluid changed (with Honda ATF). But this doesn't help with the problem.

Thank you in advance for your helpful replies.
 

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First of all, why did you changed with 5W-30 instead of 5W-20?
I don't know for sure but seems like your car does not produce enough torque now in order to make a proper up-shift.
 

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I read somewhere that 5w30 is recommended for Texas, due to the hot summers.
 

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First of all, why did you changed with 5W-30 instead of 5W-20?
I don't know for sure but seems like your car does not produce enough torque now in order to make a proper up-shift.
5w-30 protects the engine better and 5w-20 is like water. One person ran mobil 1 5w20 for ~80k miles and when he opened up his engine, the cylinder walls were banged up. Because of the recommendation from others as well as this story that also had pics (proof), I use 5w30 (winter) and 10w30 (summer) dino oil. Syn tends to thin out, mainly in 5w20 which explains the problem.
 

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5w-30 protects the engine better and 5w-20 is like water. One person ran mobil 1 5w20 for ~80k miles and when he opened up his engine, the cylinder walls were banged up. Because of the recommendation from others as well as this story that also had pics (proof)
Would you mind posting the links to this story?
 

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Y'all ever pop the hood and look at the oil fill cap? That's the oil weight you should be using. I love when people think they know more about engines than the masterful engineers that designed them.

These (Honda engines) aren't Chevy's, they are designed with tight tolerances and as such should be provided the proper lubrication.

FWI 5w20 M1 is what honda labeled as their synthetic oil, and it's all I use in my accord with 140k+ miles.
 

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^not always true. If you actually read the link I posted, it proves your statement otherwise. The 5w20 is for Honda to meet specific ratings.

I've done research on other forums and 5w20 is like water. It won't protect your engine. The man who looked into this has worked on several J-series engines and it seems like he knows as just as much as the engineers themselves, if not more. Your car is a k-series so it may not relate to this story but I had used mobil 1 on my previous car as I said, and it consumed any synthetic oil I threw in.
 

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^not always true. If you actually read the link I posted, it proves your statement otherwise. The 5w20 is for Honda to meet specific ratings.

I've done research on other forums and 5w20 is like water. It won't protect your engine. The man who looked into this has worked on several J-series engines and it seems like he knows as just as much as the engineers themselves, if not more. Your car is a k-series so it may not relate to this story but I had used mobil 1 on my previous car as I said, and it consumed any synthetic oil I threw in.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51700

read post #12 and tell me you think it's a good idea to run really heavy oil.


The guy you are quoting with engine damage probably ran either cheap oil, or ran the car out of oil to cause the damage to cylinder walls
 

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OP did you have the trans fluid drained and refilled, or did you have it flushed? If it was flushed, strong chance that's your problem.

an oil change will not affect the trans shift points. screwing up the trans, certainly will
 

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^no that's not what the guy claimed. He had used 5w20 mobil 1 from start to finish. Several others including myself are running 10w30 with no problems. I have not noticed any decrease in power. I have owned both v6 and i4 accords, use both 5w20 and 10w30. Have you done both? I am basing my info on that link as well as my own experience and I think you are basing on what one person said. It's your car! So I'm not gonna sit here all night preaching to you. I'm gonna go with what the enthusiasts who actually worked on these specific engines say.

And btw, not everything Honda states to use is always the best. The ATF Honda supplies is crap and so is the MTF. Redline aft and mtl has proven to do better.
 

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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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as said above, if you put a heavier weight oil than what's designed for the engine, it won't be able to properly lubricate all the intricate parts, causing increased wear and tear on the components inside.....

if you do decide to put a heavier weight oil than what's designed for the K-series engine, you could possibly run into problems down the road with oil consumption.

the choice is yours...
 

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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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And btw, not everything Honda states to use is always the best. The ATF Honda supplies is crap and so is the MTF. Redline aft and mtl has proven to do better.
what you say in this part of the quote is true, but a properly maintained honda engine will last the life of the car....

there have been instances of some of the older F series engines lasting over 500k+ miles..... all due to normal maintenance....

in fact, there was an article a while back of a 5th gen accord that lost 3 odometers, but the engine was original..... the car was estimated to have over a million miles.....

there was another honda civic for sale a few years ago on craigslist that had over 900k miles..... nothing other than normal maintenance done....

properly break-in, and subsequent maintenance, of the engine is key....
 

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as said above, if you put a heavier weight oil than what's designed for the engine, it won't be able to properly lubricate all the intricate parts, causing increased wear and tear on the components inside.....

if you do decide to put a heavier weight oil than what's designed for the K-series engine, you could possibly run into problems down the road with oil consumption.

the choice is yours...

This applies to the j-series engine. If you read the first post of the link, they used an oil pressure gauge and the 5w20 oil pressure was very low to the point it didn't offer adequate protection. Another thing to add is that the j-series engine was not built around synthetic oil which could also go hand in hand with the banged up cylinder walls...
 

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what you say in this part of the quote is true, but a properly maintained honda engine will last the life of the car....

there have been instances of some of the older F series engines lasting over 500k+ miles..... all due to normal maintenance....

in fact, there was an article a while back of a 5th gen accord that lost 3 odometers, but the engine was original..... the car was estimated to have over a million miles.....

there was another honda civic for sale a few years ago on craigslist that had over 900k miles..... nothing other than normal maintenance done....

properly break-in, and subsequent maintenance, of the engine is key....
That is true. I'm just stating that the trans fluids Honda supplies are inferior to the aftermarket fluids, being amsoil and redline. When I made the switch, the notchiness went away as well as the third gear issue.
 

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WOW. Mention oil on this site and the world goes to hell.
 

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subtract 261000 miles to get engine mileage
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WOW. Mention oil on this site and the world goes to hell.
at least it makes for interesting discussion.... :yes: :thmsup:
 

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^no that's not what the guy claimed. He had used 5w20 mobil 1 from start to finish. Several others including myself are running 10w30 with no problems. I have not noticed any decrease in power. I have owned both v6 and i4 accords, use both 5w20 and 10w30. Have you done both? I am basing my info on that link as well as my own experience and I think you are basing on what one person said. It's your car! So I'm not gonna sit here all night preaching to you. I'm gonna go with what the enthusiasts who actually worked on these specific engines say.

And btw, not everything Honda states to use is always the best. The ATF Honda supplies is crap and so is the MTF. Redline aft and mtl has proven to do better.
I've always wondered whether Honda based their 5w-20 requirement on conventional vs synthetic. I assume they mean conventional. I've run both weights in my i4 and currently, I tend to mix them leaning more towards the heavier weight in the summer and lighter when cold. Logically speaking, I believe that running full syn 5w-30 is akin to running conventional 5w-20 due to better flow characteristics.

BTW, wasn't the guy with the worn cylinder walls boosting?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OP did you have the trans fluid drained and refilled, or did you have it flushed? If it was flushed, strong chance that's your problem.

an oil change will not affect the trans shift points. screwing up the trans, certainly will
It was D&R-ed with 3 quarts.
 
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