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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can't seem to find much info on what the hot speakers are these days. Years ago when I did my first install, I jumped on whatever the most popular set was - I ended up with 2 sets I was happy with. PhoenixGold RSD6CS & a set of Pioneer Premiers, both were fantastic.

Need a new set for my '13 Accord front doors - 6.5's. I want to use my old amp - Alpine MRP-F550, 4-channel. Either 90w RMS per speaker or I might bridge to do 250w RMS per speaker. Haven't decided if I will just bridge and use the 250w RMS for a sub, or buy an additional amp. But for now I just want to find new speakers so I can order asap.... Nothing too bright, nice punch, clean, and probably just keeping passive crossovers. Music is mostly country but hip hop and other genres are just as important to me - depends on my mood!:nuts:


What are the current 'boner' components???!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Doors are not deadened yet - never deadened in my last car, but I think in the Honda it might be necessary. I was going to get the speakers installed and listen, then decide if I need to seal up.

Budget - Hoping for under $300, but have a bit of flexibility.

For whatever reason I'm not really into Polk, Infiniti, JL... JBL seems in that group as well.
 

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You definitely need to deaden/seal...for more reasons than just what people just assume they're fixing (rattles).

I can understand not being into Polk or Infiniti as they're both pretty awful 99% of the time. JBL & JL can be very good for mass produced stuff. There are plenty of decent, budget sets out there (if you're not going to run active...if you picked up a new amp). The ms-62c is definitely one that's loved right now. Looks pretty good, but the tweeter is said to be the weak link, but that's easy to replace with something if you don't like it. Easier if you ran active....but I wont go there lol.

If you're looking into adding a sub down the road and want to conserve space, I'd sell your amp and look into a 5-channel. You'll have more power on the 4 channels than you have now (obviously depends on what you go with, but with most 5-channels that looks to be true) and more power to a sub than if you bridged both sets on your current amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I find the time I would like to deaden, but first will install without. It will be nice to hear the difference. New 5ch amp is a good idea, but for now I'll stick with the bridged 2chs off my alpine... no sub right now I'm waiting to score a decent one off of kijiji, then if required i'll upgrade the amp depending on what the sub needs.

JBL ms-62c. Reviews look great and RMS seems just about right for the 90w I will be supplying. I'll probably end up going with these - thanks for the recommendation! Wish I had more time to research etc, but I need better sound in my car asap and my new job blocks way too many websites for me to surf around :(

Any other similar sets let me know! Probably will purchase from Sonix unless you know of a better site? (ship to canada)
 

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Why does crutchfield say that the ms-62c do not fit? Because they are 6 3/4 instead of 6 1/2? I'll just need a spacer (mdf) and they should go in OK right?
Depends on the 9th cutouts for the factory speakers and which speakers you get. I know on my 7th gen, they say 6.5 " will fit. Some older Pioneer's went in no problem, some newer Alpine Type-R's needed one spacer that came with the speakers and I had to cut out the hole a little. For my new Alpine Type-X's, I had to add a second spacer and cut out the hole to basically be the exact size of the inside hole of the spacer because the Type-X's basket needs the full space.

My advice is get at least 2 one-foot square pieces of dynamat or equivalent and then if you have to cut the hole bigger or not, place a square of mat over the hole, cut it from the center out to the edges like a pizza, then fold each flap back behind the door panel so you have a good seal for the bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My advice is get at least 2 one-foot square pieces of dynamat or equivalent and then if you have to cut the hole bigger or not, place a square of mat over the hole, cut it from the center out to the edges like a pizza, then fold each flap back behind the door panel so you have a good seal for the bracket.
Seems like a good idea. I wasn't planning on cutting the doors at all, was hoping they would fit right in. I just moved cities and I don't have ANY tools with me... Contemplating if I should just pay for the installation so I don't have to increase the budget and buy tools.

Pretty much sold on these JBL's, and I'd feel better knowing I did a proper install, annd it will be enjoyable so I'll probably go tool shopping soon!
 

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Seems like a good idea. I wasn't planning on cutting the doors at all, was hoping they would fit right in. I just moved cities and I don't have ANY tools with me... Contemplating if I should just pay for the installation so I don't have to increase the budget and buy tools.

Pretty much sold on these JBL's, and I'd feel better knowing I did a proper install, annd it will be enjoyable so I'll probably go tool shopping soon!
Good luck with the install mate.
 

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A dremel will make the speaker hole larger rather quickly with the right attachment. It also helps to shave down plastic parts on the actual door panel if needed. I had to do both. Tons of uses with that little guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dremel - bang on :thmsup: . I remember I used one for my (only) other install to cut plastic. Ended up a bit sloppy but got the job done. Didn't think of using one for cutting metal but can't see why it wouldn't work.

Since you've hit every question on the head - which LOC would you recommend and how much deadener do I need to do both doors?
 

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I just finished installing the passenger side MS62c. Even with an MDF ring the midbass wont fit. I had to dremel the opening a bit. After sealing and deadening it clears the door panel just fine.

Before dremel.


When everything was said and done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just finished installing the passenger side MS62c. Even with an MDF ring the midbass wont fit. I had to dremel the opening a bit. After sealing and deadening it clears the door panel just fine.
Excellent. I read your build a while back before I was doing any audio upgrades, definitely some good info in there that will help me. Great work.

Do you have any pics of the hole after you cut it with the dremel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
HELP! - found what i think is a great deal, but I have a couple concerns.

1. Is this a good deal or great deal?
$500 for:
-Pdx 1.1000
-Type R 10" sub with Type R box special edition. (says it is Dual voice 4ohm)

2. Will I need any additional equipment (capacitor, 2nd battery, etc) or ruin my alternator etc by running this high power amp + a 4 channel amp.

3. Can I expect this to produce SQ ish sound? I heard the older type R is a bit sloppy, is this true? It looks like a bandpass box so I'm not sure if I want it.
(same box as this http://www.clubrsx.org/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3368)

Do I pick this up?
 

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Since you've hit every question on the head - which LOC would you recommend and how much deadener do I need to do both doors?
Do these cars send out a balanced diff. signal? I know my old car did ('04 TL) so I'd assume most newer Hondas/Acuras do.

I'd pick up a Rockford Fosgate BLD. Can be used with balanced diff. signals ALSO. Solid line driver too. I have one and will use it in the Sport, though I'm not sure what the voltage is out of the HU on the Sport models.



I just finished installing the passenger side MS62c. Even with an MDF ring the midbass wont fit. I had to dremel the opening a bit. After sealing and deadening it clears the door panel just fine.

When everything was said and done.
Looks nice! Good job. What deadener did you go with? ...maybe it's in your build thread lol. I'll just look there.

Do you have a pic of the backside of the door panel? I'm wondering how much room we have as far as depth and size. If I can muster up a 3-way I'd love to run something like the dyn mw182 :D

HELP! - found what i think is a great deal, but I have a couple concerns.

1. Is this a good deal or great deal?
$500 for:
-Pdx 1.1000
-Type R 10" sub with Type R box special edition. (says it is Dual voice 4ohm)

2. Will I need any additional equipment (capacitor, 2nd battery, etc) or ruin my alternator etc by running this high power amp + a 4 channel amp.

3. Can I expect this to produce SQ ish sound? I heard the older type R is a bit sloppy, is this true? It looks like a bandpass box so I'm not sure if I want it.
(same box as this http://www.clubrsx.org/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3368)

Do I pick this up?
this box/sub http://www.clubrsx.org/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3368 and the amp worth the $500?

will it be too thumpy/bassy? Listen to mostly country / rock.
Too thumpy/bassy depends on many things besides just the sub/box combo. Most cars sound like this because they tune their ported boxes too high, listen to crap music that only has one damn bass note at 45hz or close to there lol and reflection/cancellations/standing waves. I could go on for awhile, but all in all there's too many factors to say yes it will sound good or no it wont. For the money, there are far better options

Do you know what the tuning frequency is of that box? Maybe you can ask him. If it's pre-fab, then I'd put money on 40hz+, which you don't want. Either way, $500 for a 10" alpine type-r, a pre-fab ported box and a pdx1.1000 is WAY too much. I had that amp way back and hated it. That version of PDX and the one after it were very noisy for most. It always sounded very weak to me too. Anyways, for $500...hell no.

Additional equipment. No. You can upgrade your battery to help, but that shouldn't be something you can't live without. A few amps wont hurt unless they're huge class A's or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Do these cars send out a balanced diff. signal? I know my old car did ('04 TL) so I'd assume most newer Hondas/Acuras do.

I'd pick up a Rockford Fosgate BLD. Can be used with balanced diff. signals ALSO. Solid line driver too. I have one and will use it in the Sport, though I'm not sure what the voltage is out of the HU on the Sport models.
No idea what type of signals... this is the part that has me confused - "tapping" in somewhere for the LOC. I've only ever installed on an aftermarket HU with preouts.

So you're saying that the Rockford Fosgate BLD would work no matter what type of signal I put to it? And this would act as the LOC correct?
 

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No idea what type of signals... this is the part that has me confused - "tapping" in somewhere for the LOC. I've only ever installed on an aftermarket HU with preouts.

So you're saying that the Rockford Fosgate BLD would work no matter what type of signal I put to it? And this would act as the LOC correct?
There has to be someone on here that has enough knowledge and has played or wired into the factory setup that would know. It would clear up a lot and I could write up a "how-to" to add a system the proper way

Yes, the BLD will work for anything...

Line Driver: Boosts source signal to help eliminate noise.

Line Level Converter: Converts speaker level signal to RCA for OEM integration applications.

Turn On Source: Can provide power remote turn on for applications missing turn on source.

Unbalanced to Balanced Converter: Provides either unbalanced or balanced output signal to better integrate with any system.

High to Low Output Impedance Converter: Converts the source unit's high output impedance by providing a super low impedance to your amplifier. This reduces the chance of noise being introduced into the audio path.
 

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You will basically splice into the factory Front Left and Front Right pre/Before-amp wires. Cut and wire/tap into those. This will not go into the BLD (you can solder on rca's, use the connector it comes with or purchase a speaker level-to-RCA connector like the one from Kicker {check sonicelectronix}). You will then run RCA's OUT from the BLD into the amp or processor. If you have another amp, daisy chain it if you'd like. I ran it into my MS-8, which gives you that full-range signal on all of the MS-8's channels (all 8 of them)....and then ran out from the MS-8 into my amps.

..hopefully this is making sense to you
 
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