Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

How did you negotiate your Accord price down with the dealer?

16K views 102 replies 61 participants last post by  MartyV6 
#1 ·
Hey everyone,

I am thinking about getting an accord in the next 6 months or so. There is a nice thread about what prices people paid for their accords and what deals they got. I was curious to find out what are the best bulletproof ways to get the dealer to lower their price.

I am sure there are other people wondering the same thing. So if you are a skilled negotiator and got a real "deal", not the crap they offer to the avg customer... can you please share?

Essentially I am asking you to share your negotiating tips, tricks, secrets, phrases, body language gestures, props, other people suggestions, team tag, etc. Anything that can help (or did help you) to negotiate the price down.

I got really burned last time I bought a car from a honda dealer because I was too young and had no clue about negotiations. And there was a very short time period when the purchase had to be made. I want to do it right this time.

It is greatly appreciated! thank you!
 
#2 ·
My strategy was to not negotiate. TrueValue.com (might have the address wrong) EDIT: truecar.com....tells you what other people are paying, invoice, msrp, etc. Tell them you'll pay the 25th percentile price (+ taxes and fees) and that's it. In and out in 1 hour. If I didn't get the deal then I would have gone and bought an Altima anyways.
 
#3 ·
Ignore everything they tell you, and give them numbers you want to pay (reasonable of course), if they say they can't. Tell them to go ask the manager or talk to the manager in the first place, because only the manager can lower the price. If they still wont lower it, just say thank you and leave. Also try buying a car in the end of the month, because every month dealers have to send out a report on how many cars they sell. Sometimes dealers are willing to make no money on the car, but have more vehicles sold, because it gives them something like benefits, im not sure.
 
#15 ·
Ignore everything they tell you, and give them numbers you want to pay (reasonable of course), if they say they can't. Tell them to go ask the manager or talk to the manager in the first place, because only the manager can lower the price. If they still wont lower it, just say thank you and leave.
This is what I did. I ended up walking away, they offered me a lower price and I still said no. Called them back a few days later to see if they were willing to negociate more, and they ended up dropping the price even further.
 
#5 ·
It is a good thing that you are starting to do your research on this forum.

First, know which trim you want.
Then, find out what others have paid for that trim level.

Truecar.com is a great place to start.
The price that the website gives you should not be the price you should pay.
It is just a good starting point of negotiation.

If the dealer tells you that they can't give you the deal you want,
don't be afraid to walk away.

Be confident. You have the money.
 
#6 ·
<-- not really a skilled negotiator. If you've got time, go check the prices paid thread and see what others paid for the car that you want. Next, email all the surrounding dealers for their price quotes. Then have them basically duke it out with eachother. Tell them Dealer B offered the car for $___, can you beat it? Keep doing this till the lowest prices of the group can no longer match the other dealer, and that'll be near the lowest you can get at the moment.
 
#8 ·
Get quotes via email and print them all out and start with the best offer. The email quote is solely to get you in the door, but a printed copy of their initial offer is good leverage later on.
Get the price of invoice - this is what they paid for the car(but not really, it's probably much lower)
If you're borrowing money to buy the car, shop for your money first and have your loan approvals with you.
Don't trade anything in - sell privately. Except maybe for a beater that wouldn't be worth your time/effort.
Decide if you want an extended warranty beforehand. If you think you do, read through this thread - or at least the last 3 pages or so.
DO NOT give them your license or a credit card - it will make walking out that much harder. Yes, they will hold you hostage!

The key is to give them as few angles as possible so that you guys are only negotiating the price of the car. They'll try and burn you with 3-5 things - price, trade, finance, a down payment, and the backend.(warranty, GAP, etc) They'll give you a good price but jack you on your trade. Or give you a good interest rate but ask for $3K(sometimes a couple days after delivery). Eliminate all those angles and just work on the base price.

Your most effective tactic though, is the ability to walk. For some people it's hard to just get up and leave especially when the salesman is being nice. If they are coming within $500-700 of your number and you stand firm and walk, they'll come crawling back a few days later. This may not always be the case, however, depending on the car you're negotiating - if it's a popular car, you may just have to split the difference on the gap.

It's all about standing your ground and having the balls to say thanks but no thanks. You're not hurting anyone's feelings by walking - be firm but don't be a d1ck.

Good luck! Btw, which car are you thinking about?

Whoa! My 666 post! :paranoid:
 
#9 ·
I don't negotiate. I use resources to figure out a fair price. I walk in, I tell them the price I want out the door. They have exactly 30 minutes to answer me yes or no. Missed the deadline = I walk and go to the next dealer. Car shopping shouldn't be a headache.
 
#12 ·
Car shopping shouldn't be a headache.
Yep, I always say buying a car should be as simple as buying a loaf of bread. In these days of services like Truecar.com and email quotes it is pretty easy to shop and be assured you are getting a fair deal. I got the True car figure for my trim line and then I got individual email quotes. Got one from the dealer I ultimately bought from, but it wasn't my color. I remembered he had my color in stock so I asked him about that. His quote was about $700 under the Truecar figure, so I bought it. Moral of the story: don't quit shopping when you get your Truecar quote. Get individual email quotes too.
 
#11 ·
A car salesmans job is take every penny out of your pocket before you leave the dealership. Ever wonder why the have sales meeting almost everyday first thing in the morning. Use truecar.com as a basis and always buy at the end of the month. Dealers and sales people have quotas to hit. Their allocation of hot models is based on how many cars they sell. Do not go by the old "how much. Can you afford per month". BS. Walk in to a dealership armed with what model you want, whet options, and any trade you might have. as mentioned above give them 30 minutes to answer this question. I want three numbers and three numbers only. The price of the new car, my trade in price and my final out the door price with no financing. You can then talk financing if you need it. Your goal is at least. 10% off MSRP and don't fall for the second sticker. If the car has already been tampered with and. Junked up with wheel locks and fabric protection tell them you want a car that just hit the ground. They know what it means.
 
#13 ·
1) Sit down and say "I don't negotiate with terrorists."

2) If they don't give you the price you want to pay, stand up and say "Diplomatic Immunity", and then leave.

This will confuse them and get them out of their "4 box" method of selling. It may even make them laugh.
 
#16 ·
I knew what a fair price was for the vehicle I wanted.
The dealer understood from the get go I was no novice and after only a few minutes asked me what I would pay. I told him....we signed the papers.
Really simple.
 
#18 ·
As others have said, you don't have to negotiate to buy a car anymore. First decide how much you want to pay. Do some research, find out what others are paying, and settle on what you think you want to pay. Or if you want, just pick the invoice price and go with that plus TTL. Email, call, visit dealers, give them your offer. Tell me you are ready to buy today at that price, if they can't meet it you'll visit other dealers with the same price till you get your deal. End of the month helps. Be ready to play to dealers fears, tell them you already got one dealer who is within $200 of your price, but you'd like to do better so you are giving them a shot. Also, don't let them take the focus off of selling price, if they start with that four square cr@p, tell them to quit wasting your time. If you have a trade, best to keep it a secret until you get a deal on a car. Now once you find a dealer who agrees to your price, don't let your guard down cause they'll send you to the finance guy who's job it is to get you to buy an extended warranty, a dealer maintenance package, gap insurance, insurance against drone strikes and buffalo crashes, etc, etc. Know beforehand if you want any of these, but also know that you can buy Honda's extended warranty online for just $1000 (8 years), while most finance guys will tell you it's gonna cost you $2100 or something. In other words, don't blow your deal in finance, lots of people get a car at their price only to get mugged in finance.
 
#19 ·
There are a lot of good suggestions already captured so there's no point in me rehashing.

The only thing I would add is to make sure you go over the paperwork once you're done with a fine tooth comb. There are a bunch of areas that the finance office may try to screw you especially with finance terms (if you finance through them), fees, etc.

Don't pay for extra paint protection, pin striping, seat guards, detailing, gas, alarm stickers (yes they do this..LOL), etc
 
#20 ·
+1 double on this. Bring someone with you who can read the paperwork after you've read it before you've signed it. I would recommend declining everything they may offer you on the paperwork. There's quite a few sneaky checkboxes to add on warranties, services, and whatnot. The ONLY fees you should be paying are sales tax, and a $250 document fee (I think the $ amount varies by state). Even the "free" stuff...just....say...no.

Oh, and make sure they don't wash your car while you're doing the paperwork. I was pissed when I got the keys and found they sprayed a crapload of armorall on my engine bay.
 
#21 ·
After doing some initial comparison shopping I ultimately emailed my preferred (closest) dealer the morning of the last day of month, and said I'm prepared to come in and buy today if you can give me X price (a price well below previous quotes). They were quite cooperative "as long as I could get in today".
 
#24 ·
Go tomorrow then. It's a play to see how badly you want the car. Fire back with a "not much".
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
But in all seriousness.... I wanted the managers slightly used 2013, So I went over and looked at a 2014 with one sales person, came back the next day and told another person I actually wanted that 13 and they will have to do better than what the 2014 would sell for because this car has 2000 miles on it and its a 2013 instead.

They had no where to go but bottom dollar.
 
#28 ·
Thank you for all of the replies so far. I have a 370Z so i do not plan to trade that in. It has a 2.5k sound system in it so I think I will sell the car private (i know dealer wont care or pay me more for it).

So the plan is to just get the price online truecar.com and go from there like you guys advise.

Now one question. Does truecar.com give you the invoice price? and if they do, then like you guys said $500 above that seems reasonable. Now does this $500 above invoice include dealer fees or not?

Cause if not, they will prolly try to put another 500$ above that and thats already $1000 up. Just clarifying.
 
#30 ·
Truecar doesn't have the invoice price. No one has the 'true' invoice price of the vehicle, this varies based on factory to dealer programs, sales numbers, etc.

You want to go for 10-15% off MSRP of the vehicle before any add-ons like GAP, warranty, dealer processing fee, TTL, etc. That's the # you should be aiming for.

Good luck!
 
#32 ·
Didn't negotiate. We have a good, highly thought of one price Honda dealership here. Price can be beat. But not the experience and service, which is what I care most about. A few hundred bucks one way or the other on a $30K car I'm going to keep for 10 years is irrelevant to me.
 
#35 ·
You don't need to have your car serviced at the same place you bought it. Also, all prices are negotiable, whether Costco, 1-price dealer, etc.

Buy from the lowest priced dealer. Service the car at the best/most convenient dealer.
 
#33 ·
Here's one way:

Don't worry about what the dealer paid or what the so-called invoice price is.

Your opening offer should be about 15% off MSRP. No options. Tell them to either give you the options for free or remove them.

Make sure they have your name and phone number and walk when they won't initially go for the 15% off. Do this at at least 5 dealers if you can.

See how long it takes them to call you. That is an indication of how busy they are.

Listen to the new offers when they call and use the new offers as leverage against the other dealers.

Hold out for 15% off if it fits your time frame. Depending on how soon you need your car, settle for 12%-14% (very good quote) or 10%-11% (good quote).

The same scheme can be done exclusively by the Internet (this is what I did).

I visited 1 dealer to test drive and decide which model I wanted, and then negotiated exclusively by email with 5 dealers, I wouldn't work with them over the phone or in person. I didn't visit a dealer again until the price was negotiated as low as I thought possible.

It took about 2 weeks.

Having their price in writing in their email, I then visited the dealer to sign the paperwork and get financing. All done in 1 day and drove the Accord home.
 
#36 ·
well i didn't have to negotiate as my friend is the sales manager at the particular dealer i went to but you have to see what you are willing to pay for the vehicle and what you're comfortable paying and if you don't get the deal you want then walk away never make the salesmen think that you are in a rush to buy a vehicle as they can get one over you
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top