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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did the timing belt on my 2005 V6 sedan last month and had planned to do a write up with photos, but my camera's batteries petered out and I abandoned the plan.

However, since I have some photos on the camera, I'd like to share how I got my crank bolt loose.

First, things first, every night for a week, I sprayed the crank bolt liberally with some Liquid Wrench, not WD-40, not PB Blaster, or anything else, but Liquid Wrench. A recent study done by Machinists Workshop Mag showed Liquid Wrench to be super effective:

Penetrating oil Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used 516 pounds

WD-40 238 pounds

PB Blaster 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench 127 pounds

Kano Kroil 106 pounds

ATF/Acetone mix 53 pounds




Second, I obtained the following tools:

A.) Honda crank tool ($25):



B.) Tekton 1706 40 inch, 3/4 dr. breaker bar ($57):



C.) Kobalt 23886 8 inch and Kobalt 23887 16 inch 3/4 drive extension ($40):


D.) Sunex 419MD. 19mm, 6pt, 3/4dr deep socket ($25):


E.) Harbor Freight 25inch 1/2dr. breaker bar ($11):


Third, on the day I was going to do the work, I set up everything like this:



Basically I have the crank tool on the crank pulley and the 25 inch breaker bar connected to the tool. The breaker bar is then tucked through the hole in the control arm, immobilizing it (the breaker bar). The 19mm 3/4dr socket is connected to the two 3/4dr extensions (for a total of 24 inches of extension) and the extension end if connected to the 3/4 dr, 40 inch breaker bar. One key is to have the connection point between the extension and breaker bar rest on a jackstand in order to provide lateral stability.

At this point, you just walk the son of a bitch over to the rear of the car and you will hear a "BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANG" like sound. After that, you are in the clear!



In all honesty, I tried for a minute or two and had to take a break, catch my breath and try again before I got it. At first, I wasnt keeping the head of the breaker bar and extension on the jackstand and that was wasting torque by allowing lateral flexing. Once I rested the breaker and extension on the jackstand, a very determined and steady application of force broke the bolt loose.

Anyway, this is a surefire way to get this bolt loose. It will cost you about $150 in tools if you dont have the above, but its still much cheaper than paying the shop to do it and you know going forward, there wont be many bolts in an automotive application that will stand up to your 3/4 dr. breaker bar. Plus, you can do Honda timing belts for your friends and family for fun and profit. :thumbsup:
 

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V6 6MT CBP
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You can make turning the bolt loose much easier by putting a pipe extension on the breaker bar. I used a three foot pipe, so the length of my "breaker bar" was about 5 1/2 feet.
 

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RIP my Acorn
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Thank you! I am going to be installing my underdrive crank pulley soon and was wondering how to get the bolt off! Good timing! :thmsup:
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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$150 worth of tools just to remove the crank bolt? My plan is to buy a 3/4" impact gun to blast the sucker off when I got to remove / sell my underdrive pulley. I suspect though that the regular 1/2" one with 750 ft-lb capacity would be able to crack it loose without having to hold the pulley either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
$150 worth of tools just to remove the crank bolt? My plan is to buy a 3/4" impact gun to blast the sucker off when I got to remove / sell my underdrive pulley. I suspect though that the regular 1/2" one with 750 ft-lb capacity would be able to crack it loose without having to hold the pulley either.
You suspect wrong. Talk to folks that do this on a regular basis and they will say that this bolt will laugh at a 1/2 dr. impact. You may or may not have luck with the 3/4, but its very unlikely that a 1/2 dr. will spin this bolt.

Although if your car is a 2012, I dunno, maybe it maybe easier on your motor. My only experience is on the 2003-2007 motor.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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You suspect wrong. Talk to folks that do this on a regular basis and they will say that this bolt will laugh at a 1/2 dr. impact. You may or may not have luck with the 3/4, but its very unlikely that a 1/2 dr. will spin this bolt.

Although if your car is a 2012, I dunno, maybe it maybe easier on your motor. My only experience is on the 2003-2007 motor.
One can always dream :) I'm kinda hoping for an excuse to buy this bad boy:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...-air-impact-wrench-with-6-in-anvil-68429.html

Untitled.png

:naughty:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One can always dream :) I'm kinda hoping for an excuse to buy this bad boy:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...-air-impact-wrench-with-6-in-anvil-68429.html

View attachment 107122

:naughty:
Oh yeah! :thmsup:

That big boy will certainly work.

Even though the factory torque setting on our crank bolts is 181 ft/lbs, over the years and rotations, the bolt settles in to a much higher tightness. I think I read once that someone measure the torque required to creak loose their J-30 crank bolt and it was near 750 lb/ft!!!
 

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I had every intention to do the timing belt and water pump change myself since I've done 3 or 4 timing belt and water pump changes on I-4 DOHC engines on two of my past Integras, but my 1/2" drive 550 ft-lb Ingersol-Rand impact wrench just won't loosen the crankshaft bolt in the Accord.

At the end I paid my friend $400 labor who owns a shop specializing in imports and particularly Honda brand, it was a reasonable deal given the time required, and that I need this car every day and cannot have it down for the count if something goes wrong while I am doing the work.
 

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There is another way I used to use back in the day. Put a socket and rachet wrench on that sucker then jam the wrench handle against something. You then... crank the car and that loosens the bolt using battery/starter power. Of course, you don't want to actually start the car, for obvious reasons. To stop that from happening, you can pull fuel pump or injector relay.

EDIT: Aw shoot... just realized that one of the videos show it above. Old skool method.
 

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Yeah, but how do you keep the pulley from spinning as you torque it to spec?
Remember this tool from your OP?

A.) Honda crank tool ($25):


:lmao:
 

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BRWNFLSH now
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Yeah, but how do you keep the pulley from spinning as you torque it to spec?
You still need the holding tool to torque the crank bolt on installation.
I can tell you from experience, one of these babies will spin that bolt off and laugh at it.
 

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BRWNFLSH now
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Torque wrench. I think it's suppose to be 181 ft lbs.
I think you are supposed to torque it to only 47ftlbs, then turn the bolt another 60 degrees. I'm guessing they do it that way so you only need a regular size torque wrench.
 
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