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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mechanic advised me to sell before 100k. I have the v6 3.5 with 90k.

I was thinking of the newer sport accord or the newer Camry or possibly the RAV4.

Main thing is reliability since i can't spend much on repairs due to bills.

How do the accord compare by generation? Engine issues.

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i now have 2 cars to break!!! MUWHAHAH!!!!
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Mechanic advised me to sell before 100k. I have the v6 3.5 with 90k.

I was thinking of the newer sport accord or the newer Camry or possibly the RAV4.

Main thing is reliability since i can't spend much on repairs due to bills.

How do the accord compare by generation? Engine issues.

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In my opinion you need a new mechanic. There is no reason to sell your current vehicle unless it is falling apart on you or a lemon. The V6 Honda Accords are known for their longevity, as long as you do the proper maintenance like timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, and other general maintenance.

My 7th gen sedan I was able to get 130,000 miles out of it in a little under one year with all kinds of engine issues. That was a four cylinder. My Coupe, which was also a 4-cylinder, I got it up to 4:09 K miles before scrapping it due to transmission failure.

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In my opinion you need a new mechanic. There is no reason to sell your current vehicle unless it is falling apart on you or a lemon. The V6 Honda Accords are known for their longevity, as long as you do the proper maintenance like timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, and other general maintenance.

My 7th gen sedan I was able to get 130,000 miles out of it in a little under one year with all kinds of engine issues. That was a four cylinder. My Coupe, which was also a 4-cylinder, I got it up to 4:09 K miles before scrapping it due to transmission failure.

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Except the 8th Gen V6 is notorious for excessive oil consumption thanks to the glitchy VCM mechanism.

OP, is it an automatic or manual? Do you currently have any oil consumption? If you do, then I'd think about ditching the car. If you don't, then consider installing S-VCM and kill the VCM before it causes any problems.

https://www.svcmcontroller.com

Also, at 100k miles you will need to replace the timing belt and spark plugs(which I'd recommend you to check now to make sure they aren't fouled by the oil). Just a heads-up.

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i now have 2 cars to break!!! MUWHAHAH!!!!
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Except the 8th Gen V6 is notorious for excessive oil consumption thanks to the glitchy VCM mechanism.
Misread the title, my apologies.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Automatic and no oil consumption at all. Thanks for the advice.

I also did the spark plugs and changed the radiator a while back. I still have to do the timing belt and probably the fuel pump and a few other things.

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i can't spend much on repairs due to bills.
I was thinking of the newer sport accord or the newer Camry or possibly the RAV4.
Buying a new vehicle, even new to you, is significantly more expensive than repairs on a current vehicle. A Honda is one of the most reliable vehicles on the market. Any modern car will go well past 100K miles. Keep your current car and find a mechanic that won't patronize you.
 

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Mechanic advised me to sell before 100k. I have the v6 3.5 with 90k.

I was thinking of the newer sport accord or the newer Camry or possibly the RAV4.

Main thing is reliability since i can't spend much on repairs due to bills.

How do the accord compare by generation? Engine issues.

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So, the “main thing is reliability since i can't spend much on repairs due to bills.” Have you crunched any numbers? For example, trade-in value on your car may be $5,500. If a new car costs $28,000, and you use the $5,500 trade-in value as a down payment, your loan will be $22,500. At .9% interest for 5 years, the payments will be about $383/month. A new car will cost you over $4,600 per year or about $23,000 over 5-years.

Let’s say you prep your car to run another 60,000 miles. The prep requires new brakes, new tires, timing belt, water pump, and radiator/transmission/brake/power steering fluid changes. What will that cost? $3,000? One year of new car ownership is still 50% more expensive. Once this car is brought up to A-1 condition, what kind of repairs can you expect each year for the next 4 years? Even though it is a Honda, you might still get something. Suppose that each year you must still drop another $1,000 into the car.

Five years of new car ownership will cost you about $23,000, after which time you will own a car worth perhaps $12,000. If you sell it, the net cost is $11,000. If you keep this car and dump $3,000 into it now, and $1,000 each year for the next 4 years, it will cost you $7,000, after which time it will be worth perhaps $3,000. Net cost is $4,000.

If you can’t spend money on repair bills you most certainly shouldn’t spend more money on new car payments. If your car is still strong now (no VCM issues), it is FAR cheaper to keep it. Hondas can go way past 200,000 miles if maintained and not abused.
 

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I think your mechanic used the 100k number because a big maintenance item of the timing belt would be due. As Baldeagle said, it's always cheaper to repair than replace.

Other than a leaky valve cover fixed at around 200 miles fixed under warranty and loose strut bolt that there was a TSB for (I had to pay for the repair but that was my fault) and fluid changes and tires this car hasn't had anything unexpected.

I wouldn't believe what you read on these forums about VCM on the 9th generation. Posters try to talk about past issues about a totally different VCM system from another generation and assume that it applies to the 9th generation which is false. I have a 2014 with 45k miles, never used a drop of oil after the first oil change and it is driven in all conditions and sits outside when not in use. I can feel VCM engage from time to time (which I don't care for) but the car feels brand new. If VCM is such a problem, there would have been another class action lawsuit by now.

If you are concerned about repair bills, stick with a 4 banger, they are reliable and go forever with little maintenance. The only good thing I can say about a Honda CVT is that they are cheaper to maintain than these 9 and 10 speed transmissions. Check out the costs of the fluids and the change procedure, a total nightmare if changes are required.
 

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I think your mechanic used the 100k number because a big maintenance item of the timing belt would be due. As Baldeagle said, it's always cheaper to repair than replace.

Other than a leaky valve cover fixed at around 200 miles fixed under warranty and loose strut bolt that there was a TSB for (I had to pay for the repair but that was my fault) and fluid changes and tires this car hasn't had anything unexpected.

I wouldn't believe what you read on these forums about VCM on the 9th generation. Posters try to talk about past issues about a totally different VCM system from another generation and assume that it applies to the 9th generation which is false. I have a 2014 with 45k miles, never used a drop of oil after the first oil change and it is driven in all conditions and sits outside when not in use. I can feel VCM engage from time to time (which I don't care for) but the car feels brand new. If VCM is such a problem, there would have been another class action lawsuit by now.

If you are concerned about repair bills, stick with a 4 banger, they are reliable and go forever with little maintenance. The only good thing I can say about a Honda CVT is that they are cheaper to maintain than these 9 and 10 speed transmissions. Check out the costs of the fluids and the change procedure, a total nightmare if changes are required.
That's the thing that confuses me: what year does OP actually have?

It's in the 9th Gen section and yet, it mentions 2010, which is 8th Gen.

And yeah, I agree 9th Gen VCM doesn't seem to cause any trouble like 8th Gen VCM does.

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This 8th gen VCM stuff is way overblown. Yes there have been issues but nowhere near the "notorious" description. I got 132k miles and add maybe 1 qt between 5k oil changes.
 

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Automatic and no oil consumption at all. Thanks for the advice.

I also did the spark plugs and changed the radiator a while back. I still have to do the timing belt and probably the fuel pump and a few other things.

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Why would you change the spark plugs so early? They were good for 120,000 miles.

Why did you change the radiator? What was wrong with it? The original factory coolant is usually good for 120,000 miles or 10 years. Radiators don't fail unless you use the wrong coolant or have some catastrophic damage such as a rock strike.

Why do you need to change the fuel pump? Do you regularly run out of gas on purpose? Fuel pumps fail because owners run out of gas a few times. The pumps need fuel (as a lubricant) to keep them cool. No gas=overheated pump soon to fail.

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Mechanic advised me to sell before 100k. I have the v6 3.5 with 90k.

I was thinking of the newer sport accord or the newer Camry or possibly the RAV4.

Main thing is reliability since i can't spend much on repairs due to bills.

How do the accord compare by generation? Engine issues.
Stop going to whoever said that, he's not a good mechanic.

8th gens are bullet-proof once VCM is disabled and the ATF is clean. Your car only has 90k miles! Wtf! Can I have it? lol that's young for that car! Keep up the maintenance and keep trunkin'!

Oh, plan on doing the timing belt service soon. Very critical, every 100k miles you need it done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Why would you change the spark plugs so early? They were good for 120,000 miles.

Why did you change the radiator? What was wrong with it? The original factory coolant is usually good for 120,000 miles or 10 years. Radiators don't fail unless you use the wrong coolant or have some catastrophic damage such as a rock strike.

Why do you need to change the fuel pump? Do you regularly run out of gas on purpose? Fuel pumps fail because owners run out of gas a few times. The pumps need fuel (as a lubricant) to keep them cool. No gas=overheated pump soon to fail.
Mechanic told me to change at, 60k.

My bad I never changed the radiator but performed a radiator flush.


Stop going to whoever said that, he's not a good mechanic.

8th gens are bullet-proof once VCM is disabled and the ATF is clean. Your car only has 90k miles! Wtf! Can I have it? lol that's young for that car! Keep up the maintenance and keep trunkin'!

Oh, plan on doing the timing belt service soon. Very critical, every 100k miles you need it done.
Leaning towards keeping it, will look into the vcm issue.

I appreciate all the advice.

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I am sorry I laughed when you said you don't want to spend on repair bills so you would like to get a new car. Dealers or car sellers make the most money off people thinking that new cars are completely trouble and maintenance free. If you get a new or newer to you/used car, it doesn't mean that you are immune from doing basic fluid and brake pad changes at a minimum. What DOES minimize your repair bills is maintaining an existing paid off car. What further minimizes your repair bill is learning to do most repairs yourself.

Get rid of your Accord before 100k miles? I say yes to that for a German car. I am about to hit 300k miles on my 7th gen V6 and I do not spend more on repair bills each year compared to a new car payment.
 

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This 8th gen VCM stuff is way overblown. Yes there have been issues but nowhere near the "notorious" description. I got 132k miles and add maybe 1 qt between 5k oil changes.
I didn't have any oil burning, but even then, my spark plugs were not in the best shape after 82k miles(see below).

This is a real issue, and serious enough for Honda to settle a law suit and issue an extended warranty on these cars, and that's pretty bad in my definition, and definitely worth bringing up to those who are not informed.

Why would you change the spark plugs so early? They were good for 120,000 miles.
I'd say, from my personal experience, it's worth at least checking after 60k miles on an 8th Gen V6 5AT if you have the VCM on.

This is what my spark plugs on the Accord looked like after 82k miles. The left two are from cylinder 5 and 6, which never gets disabled, while the right one comes from cylinder 3, which gets disabled the most often.

Again, no apparent symptoms of VCM troubles on my Accord, but still, the spark plugs can foul over time.


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In my opinion, determine exactly how much oil your car is consuming between oil changes. Are you 100% certain it isn't burning oil? After your next oil change, check the oil level every 1K miles. If you are more than 1 quart low before your next oil change (7-8K miles using the MM), then you probably have VCM issues that will only get worse. You might never have oil consumption issues with your car, but you need to determine if your engine is using oil... that is the biggest risk with your particular car.

If oil consumption is minimal --> keep the car, but continue to monitor for oil consumption. Hopefully you can drive it to 200K miles while you start saving for your next car.

If consuming oil --> Consider selling, it will only get worse.

I had an '09 V6 automatic with oil consumption issues. Despite what Honda claims, this is a very widespread problem on '08 to '12 Accords (V6 automatics). There wouldn't have been a class action lawsuit if this wasn't a common problem. I eventually had my short block replaced under warranty, but the lawsuit deadline for that was back in 2014. If your particular car has VCM issues, the check-engine-light with fouled plugs will be your first sign of problems.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Getting a new accord soon, budget is around 18k. I have a2010 Honda Accord that I’m selling for 5k.

How’s the reliability compared to my year?

I have 120k on my engine v6


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5K for a 2010 V6? You are under valuing your car right now. I think you can easily sell it for 9K to 10K. And KBB verifies this.
 

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Same comment as above, unless your car is beat up, it’s worth well over $5k.

If you liked the 8th Gen V6 and 5AT pony express shifting, you will enjoy the 9th Gen V6 and 6AT. There’s a thread that got brought back to life this week asking nearly the same question. If I see it, I might come back and link it for you.

 

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100K on a Honda V6 is nothing. Do the major 100K service and keep driving. I’ve had Honda’s and I’ve had Toyota’s - Honda’s are defiantly more reliable in the long term. I’ve had less rust issues with Toyota, but more engine repairs and brake jobs than I’ve ever done to a Honda.
 
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