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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone again!

I just did my first oil change waiting for my MM to hit the 15% oil left period. I'm just wondering how often do you guys change your oil? I know the new accord is using 0W-20 synthetic oil as well so would I just wait 15% again?

Also what's better, the Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 ? I'm thinking of switching to Mobil 1 but the dealership says Pennzoil is better.

Thanks!
 

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In the beginning I did my oil changes at 7,500 but started to go longer since the oil wasn't getting as dirty as I had expected. Go 8,500-9,000 which is about 15% and you will be just fine. Hell maybe 10,000 it just all depends your driving style.
 

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In the beginning I did my oil changes at 7,500 but started to go longer since the oil wasn't getting as dirty as I had expected. Go 8,500-9,000 which is about 15% and you will be just fine. Hell maybe 10,000 it just all depends your driving style.
Let's see, Honda installed a Maintenance Minder that will tell you when to do the appropriate maintenance. It tracks engine parameters and based on your driving situation it tells you when to change the oil. Lots of short trip with lots of idling vs. highway cruising will determine the oil change interval. Any high quality synthetic oil will work just fine.
 

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MM @ 10%. Change with Quaker State Full Syn with a Honda filter.

Jay
 

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I've always favored Mobil 1 and my Father Penzoil. As stated most name brand will do.
 

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Hey everyone again!

I just did my first oil change waiting for my MM to hit the 15% oil left period. I'm just wondering how often do you guys change your oil? I know the new accord is using 0W-20 synthetic oil as well so would I just wait 15% again?

Also what's better, the Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 ? I'm thinking of switching to Mobil 1 but the dealership says Pennzoil is better.

Thanks!
Neither, those oils are primarily used to EXTEND your OCI or Oil Change cycle interval i.e. 7500 or 10,000 miles

Honduhs use the MMS to determine oil life but the MMS is nothing more then statistics a math genius uses as a best guess with x, y, z variables. The type of base oil used (GRP II+ III for semis and GRP III up to IV(boutique oils)) in addition to the additive package which all oils have especially robust ones for the semi-synthetics and fully synthetics allow the oil to last longer then a typical conventional oil. These additives are responsible for keeping the VI or Viscosity Index(keeping engine parts protected and not come into contact with each other) in check across all temperatures and also increase the FP or Flash Point(highest temperature oil can take before inceration). When you do your homework, you will see which oils have the better numbers which is a indicator of how robust the oil is in addition to removing acids, soot and other harmful byproducts of the combustion system better and also allow the oil to last longer and reduce wear so besides the MMS/OLM you have to evaluate how much longer it will last with these add packs by either doing an UOA or Used Oil Analysis yourself (best) or rely on other UOAs done by other's UOAs(for your car in your climate) on Bob is the Oil guy website.

For example, I use Motorcraft synthetic blend(you may try Castrol or Quaker Durablend for ex) and UOAs performed by others on this oil and those UOAs indicate this oil is good for 5000 mile OCIs or Oil Change Intervals. What you have to do is see the oil as it comes out and lean on these UOAs to determine how much longer can the oil last or if the recommendations are spot on. THE MMS can only determine oil quality or use left by tracking engine temperature, engine revolutions and your severe or moderate climate to name a few other things only your Owners Manual can hash out. It is a good guess but your oil may be able to go more or less depending on what your UOA tells you which like I said before, you rely on others or pay 30 bucks to get it done for yourself. see http://www.BITOG.com and go under the (UOA) Used Oil Analysis section.

Based on all the UOAs I have read and taking into account price and how readily available oils are, Motorcraft Semi synthetic/synthetic blend is the best oil because for one, Honda's are easy on oil and number 2 you want the best performing oil considering all relevant data(durability, performance, price) and this oil is the best of both conventional and synthetic worlds, imo. Keep in mind, Hondas will last long as long as any API labeled oil is used but the stakes get higher when you take into account two main factors: Durability in high heat climates/duty cycles esp for the 7th gen V6 which was a HIGH HEAT application. To illustrate, Honda even released a TSB for the power steering pump saying the host can burst due to high heat etc. This is why I use a semi -synthetic but not a full synthetic cause I do not run my oil for extended OCIs like 7500 or 10000 miles OCIs.

SO to answer your questions, the oils you mentioned are if our priority is extended drains(7.5k, 10k. Knowing that Honduhs will last with any oil, it is how much more can they do if you use certain quality semis or full syns. The MC I use has allowed my spark plugs to still be usefull at 142,000 miles as well as TB. All I am getting is a squeak from the tensioner, the belt is still good meaning the oil is helping above and beyond using any good conventional. In conclusion, I would use a good semi synthetic and make sure the oil goes no more then 5k as a general rule. This is cheaper then splurging for full syns only to take your oil out prematurely and harming the env and increasing dependence on foreign oil, not to mention wasting perfectly good oil.
 

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Just go by the MM. I hit 0% right at 11,5xx miles
 

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The only decision you really have to make is whether or not you want to go with dino or synthetic oil. if you go with synthetic, they're all really good, and so just look for a sale on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all your responses, so I guess it would be ok to just stick to the 15% when the MM light comes on. I think buying Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's going for $25 at Walmart compared to over $30 I was paying at the dealership.

It took me about 6.5k miles to reach 15% so maybe every 6.5k seems reasonable for an oil change. Hopefully I'm not wasting money from too frequent of an oil change :p
 

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I am confused - so some people are getting 11K miles + on the MMs? On my Odyssey it is usually around 6,000 to get down to 0%. Will be a pleasant surprise if my V6 takes twice that long. And how come someone else gets 6k in this same thread? Is this highway miles vs city miles sitting at a stoplight?
 

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Different driving situations is my guess, my commute is 100 miles a day almost all hwy at high speeds. For someone sitting in traffic for hours I'm sure the MM reads things different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am confused - so some people are getting 11K miles + on the MMs? On my Odyssey it is usually around 6,000 to get down to 0%. Will be a pleasant surprise if my V6 takes twice that long. And how come someone else gets 6k in this same thread? Is this highway miles vs city miles sitting at a stoplight?
It's pretty much 60% highway for me, I drive every Friday after work from San Jose to San Francisco and spend my weekend doing daily driving in S.F. and go home Sunday.

Weekdays I'm just driving to work and back home which is only 14 miles roundtrip.

Are you doing mostly highway driving in your car?
 

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Thanks for all your responses, so I guess it would be ok to just stick to the 15% when the MM light comes on. I think buying Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's going for $25 at Walmart compared to over $30 I was paying at the dealership.

It took me about 6.5k miles to reach 15% so maybe every 6.5k seems reasonable for an oil change. Hopefully I'm not wasting money from too frequent of an oil change :p
Any 0W-20 oil with this seal will work. No need to over-think this.




Quaker State Ultimate Durability is less than Mobil 1 and just as good.

$22 for 5 qts at Walmart - $20 rebate = $2.
 

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I am confused - so some people are getting 11K miles + on the MMs? On my Odyssey it is usually around 6,000 to get down to 0%. Will be a pleasant surprise if my V6 takes twice that long. And how come someone else gets 6k in this same thread? Is this highway miles vs city miles sitting at a stoplight?
The I4s it seem go longer on the MM than the V6 under the same conditions. MM is all calculated on drive cycle.

My I4 Accord had the 15% come on at 9700mi. Our Odyssey is at 20% at 6600mi under similar conditions.

Jay
 

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The I4s it seem go longer on the MM than the V6 under the same conditions. MM is all calculated on drive cycle.

My I4 Accord had the 15% come on at 9700mi. Our Odyssey is at 20% at 6600mi under similar conditions.

Jay
Not really a surprise. Your I4 Accord (3,300 lbs) weights much less than the Odyssey (4,500 lbs). The Odyssey's engine is going to do more work to get the van moving and up to speed vs the Accord which will probably mean a shorter OCI.

Drive the Accord around with an additional 1,200 lbs and see if the 15% MM light comes on at 9,700 mi again.
 
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