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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the car has almost 150K and has always been Honda serviced but I noticed that it takes about 7-8 cranks for the car to start. Not 7-8 attempts, rather it turns over 7-8 times.

Is this normal for you guys?

Starter bad?

Need new plugs?
 

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You are in California. Is it a PZEV or ULEV, or what?

My PZEV takes 4 or 5 cranks to start. Been like that since day 1.
 

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Yep same problem here. Mine takes about 6-7 in the cold weather we are having.... I think i'm going to do the v-6 battery upgrade... maybe you should think about doing that as well. The I-4's have a tiny battery ...
 

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I'm pretty sure mine starts up right away. It probably would be beneficial for people to take videos for comparison.
 

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I'm pretty sure mine starts up right away. It probably would be beneficial for people to take videos for comparison.
Thats probably because you have already done the v-6 battery upgrade........
 

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Takes a few cranks when its cold for sure. You might want to get your battery tested if it's more than a few years old.

If you don't want to do the V6 battery upgrade, Walmart's Everstart Maxx is a very good battery for I-4 Accords. It is made by Johnson Controls and has 500 CCA (vs. the stock ~410). I had one installed in my old Accord (6th gen) and it cranked much faster compared to the OEM Honda battery. Consumer reports consistently rates the Everstart Maxx at the top of their charts.
 

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I did the battery upgrade to my car (one of my first mods), and it didn't really speed up the cranking much. Still takes 6 or so to turn over.

I'm contemplating adding another 4awg cable to the starter motor from the battery. I think what they have on there now is the bare minimum awg required (80A).

I'm referring to an 8G, but engine wise it's very similar to the 7G.
 

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I did the battery upgrade to my car (one of my first mods), and it didn't really speed up the cranking much. Still takes 6 or so to turn over.

I'm contemplating adding another 4awg cable to the starter motor from the battery. I think what they have on there now is the bare minimum awg required (80A).

I'm referring to an 8G, but engine wise it's very similar to the 7G.
Did you upgrade the ground cable as well when you upgraded the battery? I have hear that if you don't, you will not receive the full benefit of the larger battery....
 

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My V6 takes what sounds 5 revolutions before the engine starts, this is with an old battery that started to struggle a few weeks ago when the weather got colder, and the brand new battery that went in.

Both batteries cranked about 5 revolutions before the car starts, the new battery cranked a lot faster.

The car has done this ever since I got it in mid 2007, I just chalked it off as the way Honda designed it.

All my other cars start within just 1 or 2 revolutions of starter cranking the engine.
 

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Did you upgrade the ground cable as well when you upgraded the battery? I have hear that if you don't, you will not receive the full benefit of the larger battery....

Nope, this (full grounding upgrade) is on my todo list as well. I'll be making a DIY post in the 8G section when I do it (probably this weekend). I'm going to do the grounds, see what happens, and then work up the courage to remove the intake manifold to do the starter (it's right underneath it on the 8G).
 

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Cranky

My V6 takes what sounds 5 revolutions before the engine starts, this is with an old battery that started to struggle a few weeks ago when the weather got colder, and the brand new battery that went in.

Both batteries cranked about 5 revolutions before the car starts, the new battery cranked a lot faster.

The car has done this ever since I got it in mid 2007, I just chalked it off as the way Honda designed it.

All my other cars start within just 1 or 2 revolutions of starter cranking the engine.

Mine always started on the 5th crank, I'd hear it turn over 4 times and start on 5th. With a new starter and battery, same story.
 

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Mine always started on the 5th crank, I'd hear it turn over 4 times and start on 5th. With a new starter and battery, same story.
If the car is cranking, the problem is neither the starter, nor the battery.
 

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If the car is cranking, the problem is neither the starter, nor the battery.
But is it even a "problem" to begin with? I am stumped on this.

Do Honda engineers delay the actual start to pressurize the oil pump first? Do they prime the fuel system? I don't know....

Anyone have an Accord that starts on the first or second crank?
 

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If you suspect a battery, can't you hook up some jumper cables/battery jumpstarter pack and see how well it starts up with a boost?
 

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But is it even a "problem" to begin with? I am stumped on this.

Do Honda engineers delay the actual start to pressurize the oil pump first? Do they prime the fuel system? I don't know....

Anyone have an Accord that starts on the first or second crank?
I don't see why Honda would purposely insert a delay, especially since it doesn't seem any other mfg. has this going on. I suppose if someone were ambitious enough (or had the proper diagnostic tools available), they could see if the engine is providing spark and fuel injection immediately when the key is turned?

Could the engine be started without a serp belt to remove some load off it?
 

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In the owners manual or the quick start card (one of those), I remember something saying like, your vehicle may take a few cranks before the engine starts, this is just the engine management software regulating emissions during start up or something like that.

And even after my v6 battery upgrade, the car still starts after the 4th crank each time it just feels like the start is much easier if that makes any sense.
 

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What should be determined is if the 7-8 revolutions is something out of the norm for that particular car, or if 99% of startups in the past consisted of less than that number

If so, then you may have an extended crank issue. If the plugs are original, I'd start with that. Has gas mileage decreased or stayed the same?

One of my Toyotas has 159k miles with most likely the original Denso plugs. Every once in a while I'll get an extended crank. I plan to change them out soon
 

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If I turn the key too quick, it seems like the fuel pressure is not up yet, and the engine stumbles for a half second. When I first got the car it would really take a while, and sometimes took a second try. It was still under warranty at the time, and the dealership changed the fuel pressure regulator. It will still take a few cranks, but starts on the first try every time. I notice it more because my old Chevy S10 used to start so quick it was like one revolution, and you just barely had to tap it. Starting, however, was the only thing that truck did well:thumbsdow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
WOW! Seems like this is more common than I thought.

The 2002 Accord started after 2 cranks

My old BMW started sometimes in 1 crank

Mom's benz starts in three cranks

Dad's Lexus takes about 5 cranks as well.

This car was my brother in laws who ALWAYS over maintained it so I doubt the plugs are original but it might be worth the $30 investment to change them

What is this battery upgrade I read about? Isn't bad for the electronics in the car to get more juice than suppose to?

I'm also thinking of running some injector cleaner...


Thoughts?
 

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A car's 12 volt battery is actually a 13.2 volt battery- comprised of six 2.2 volt cells.

Getting a battery with 700 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) does not "hurt" your car's electronics compared to a battery with 500 CCA.

Amps are NOT volts....and there is no such thing as "juice".

Some on this forum believe that they should upgrade from the 4 cylinder's 51R group sized battery to a larger battery. The 51R, depending on the brand, can have an amp rating of 425 -550 CCA. Some put a larger battery in the tray (or get rid of the tray entirely in order to make more room) and wind up with 800 CCA. The only downside is weight- generally speaking, the higher the CCA, the greater the weight.

Search for V6 battery upgrade....

Here is a link with the physical battery sizes....

http://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm
 
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