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Discussion Starter #22
A wrap is WAY more resistant to dust and sand than ceramic coating. Ceramic coating does NOT protect your paint from rock chips or debris on the car. At best it makes it easier to wash, and easier to get bird crap/tree sap off the paint. A wrap is a physical barrier between your car's original paint and the outside world. My car was side-swiped, and it only damaged the wrap. A ceramic coating won't do that.
Thank you.

Between combo of PPF full car + Ceramic Coat vs. wrapping, which one will protect the car better? And which one do you recommend?
 

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Now you are talking about a totally different thing. Do you want to change the color or not? PPF will certainly protect the paint. It's a clear film. Wrapping the car with vinyl or air wrap will change the color. Any of these options will protect the paint underneath by adding additional layers on top.

Ceramic coating is not much of a protection. It will make washing the car much easier as water just beads up and rolls off. It won't protect from hard scratches.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Now you are talking about a totally different thing. Do you want to change the color or not? PPF will certainly protect the paint. It's a clear film. Wrapping the car with vinyl or air wrap will change the color. Any of these options will protect the paint underneath by adding additional layers on top.

Ceramic coating is not much of a protection. It will make washing the car much easier as water just beads up and rolls off. It won't protect from hard scratches.
I want to change the color, but I also want to have the car easier to wash. If PPF and vinyl wrap have the same level of protection, but I can do ceramic coating with PPF, then I don't really need to change the color.

Thank you.
 

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No, no, no....what you really want to do here is wrap the car, then dip it, then ceramic coat the dip over the wrap. Once that's done, hit it with two coats of a good spray wax, and then dip it again. That way the first dip comes off if damaged (rock chips, whatever), but it's just a sacrificial layer and exposes the second dip. You can repeat this layering up to four times before it won't adhere, as long as you remember the ceramic in between. This is referred to out west as the "chip and dip" process, and it is getting pretty popular.

I've seen a few guys add a layer of PPF on top of all of that, but IMO there's no sense in going that far. Good luck.
 

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No, no, no....what you really want to do here is wrap the car, then dip it, then ceramic coat the dip over the wrap. Once that's done, hit it with two coats of a good spray wax, and then dip it again. That way the first dip comes off if damaged (rock chips, whatever), but it's just a sacrificial layer and exposes the second dip. You can repeat this layering up to four times before it won't adhere, as long as you remember the ceramic in between. This is referred to out west as the "chip and dip" process, and it is getting pretty popular.

I've seen a few guys add a layer of PPF on top of all of that, but IMO there's no sense in going that far. Good luck.
This sounds incredibly expensive and for what? Rock chips are a reality. Life happens.
 

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Between combo of PPF full car + Ceramic Coat vs. wrapping, which one will protect the car better? And which one do you recommend?
Paint Protection Film and a wrap are totally different things.

A wrap will protect the entire car AND change the color. PPF is clear.
 

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PPF is clear.
https://www.stek-usa.com/dynoblack1

DYNOblack Paint Protection Films from STEK are a unique innovation designed to transform any color paint into a protected high gloss black, matte, or carbon fiber finish. Historically vinyl wraps were the only way to change the color of your car without pursuing new paint but as daily driving hazards do not rest, nor do we. Our DYNOblack PPF offers protection against rock chips, scratches, insects, bird droppings, road oils, yellowing, and water marks. Making your driving more enjoyable and maintenance easier, a molecular level integration with our advanced HYDROphobe® ceramic top-coat allows this film bead-water and heal itself from minor scratches and damages.
 

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Okay, let me rephrase that: PPF is clear or black, while wraps come in hundreds of colors

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

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This sounds incredibly expensive and for what? Rock chips are a reality. Life happens.
From your profile photo, it looks like you have a bra on the leading edge of your hood to help avoid rock chips. For just $8,500 more, you could leave that off and enjoy the freedom of layers and layers of sacrificial protection.
 

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From your profile photo, it looks like you have a bra on the leading edge of your hood to help avoid rock chips. For just $8,500 more, you could leave that off and enjoy the freedom of layers and layers of sacrificial protection.
I have it on there mainly for appearance, but I suppose it does provide chip protection on the hood, but at a cost of abrasions to the paint if not careful. It does not do anything for the chips in the bumper plastic which is hidden fairly well with the black paint color, but present nonetheless.
 

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If you hate your car that much, and not want to spend more money to get a color change than trading it in for another car in the color you want; you can check with automotive schools in your area that may be looking for cars for their students to paint for credit. Reputable shops always have a wait list, and charge an arm and a leg because they can thanks to many many MANY shops that do substandard work. From what I understand, these students do okay job because they know their work will be graded by an instructor who knows what a paint job is supposed to look like.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If you hate your car that much, and not want to spend more money to get a color change than trading it in for another car in the color you want; you can check with automotive schools in your area that may be looking for cars for their students to paint for credit. Reputable shops always have a wait list, and charge an arm and a leg because they can thanks to many many MANY shops that do substandard work. From what I understand, these students do okay job because they know their work will be graded by an instructor who knows what a paint job is supposed to look like.
It’s funny when I have said so many times that I dont hate it and you keep saying otherwise.

Thanks anyway for the suggestion.
 

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A typical 1k/panel paintjob (aka "factory or OE quality") will be subpar compared to original paint. The edges won't have clearcoat, no one's going to check the intensity of orange peel, probably a superficial heat treatment. To get it anywhere comparable to original rotisserie quality paint, you'd have to ask around for a classic car restorer who can do "Show quality" repaint and that will run as high as the people ask because there aren't many people that can even do it properly. And then you'd have to find a pro who specializes in polishing.

One time I got quoted to do hood, fenders and roof for 10K show quality NBP so use your imagination. 10K for whole car is "nice" for people who thinks cars are just appliances to get them from point A to B.

Oh and I would NEVER trust a "student" with a paint job on a car that I'm going to keep. Unless the teacher is doing a demo by himself.

--edit-- Found someone's description of proper, quality paint job just for a reference.
"
Strip the body of all trim, glass, emblems, etc.
Strip all body panels to bare metal
Epoxy prime.
Metal work. Repair any rust issues, or replace panels that are beyond repair.
Reprime with Epoxy.
Metal work any dents/dings with a hammer & dolly.
Apply thin filler/putty if needed.
Block sand filler with 80/180.
Spray entire body shell with Urethane primer.
Block Sand with 180/220/320/400.
Reprime with Urethane.
Block sand with 320/400.
Wet sand entire shell with 500 or 600 depending on solid color or metallic.

Send car to the booth.
Spray Sealer.
Spray Base Coat or Single Stage if solid color.
Spray 4 coats of Clear over Base coat.

Let car sit for 24 hours untouched.
Wet sand with 800 on a hard block.
Roll the car out into the sun & let the clear cure for two weeks.
Roll car back into the booth.
Wet sand with 1000 on a hard block.
Wet sand with 1500, 2000, 2500 on a soft block.
Wet sand with a 3000 trizact disc on a DA.

Polish & buff.
"
this ain't 10k
 
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