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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 at 182k miles and a 2015 at 101k miles, How often do i need to Get a Valve Adjustment Done and is it really needed? i know these V6 is a lot more Labor.
 

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Thread about this not too long ago. Based on what I've seen with this engines, it is usually needed somewhere between 150-200k miles.

Whether it's necessary or not can be argued a ton, but my perspective is that if your exhaust valve gets too tight as they commonly do on these engines with time, you're not going to have any indication of it until there's a problem like a misfire or rough idling, and by the time that happens, it's very possible the valve could be burnt and it's too late to fix it without a valve job.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thread about this not too long ago. Based on what I've seen with this engines, it is usually needed somewhere between 150-200k miles.

Whether it's necessary or not can be argued a ton, but my perspective is that if your exhaust valve gets too tight as they commonly do on these engines with time, you're not going to have any indication of it until there's a problem like a misfire or rough idling, and by the time that happens, it's very possible the valve could be burnt and it's too late to fix it without a valve job.
Ive never opened an Engine Before, im sure i could watch a video and do it, like the timing belt i have to do i think its more labor over being super complex. just not sure if i want to open the engine lol
 

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Ive never opened an Engine Before, im sure i could watch a video and do it, like the timing belt i have to do i think its more labor over being super complex. just not sure if i want to open the engine lol
Adjusting valves is one of those things where if you have no experience doing it you really shouldn't be doing it. Especially so on the J series because you have to remove the intake manifold to remove the valve covers and if you mess up the adjustment, you'll have to first wait for the engine to cool as valves must be adjusted with the engine cold, then you'll have to rip all that apart again.

And valve adjustments are no simple task, you have to really know the feel of the feeler gauges used to adjust the clearance. If you get it wrong, the best case is it's too loose and you hear it, and the worst case is you get it too tight, don't hear it, and end up burning a valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Adjusting valves is one of those things where if you have no experience doing it you really shouldn't be doing it. Especially so on the J series because you have to remove the intake manifold to remove the valve covers and if you mess up the adjustment, you'll have to first wait for the engine to cool as valves must be adjusted with the engine cold, then you'll have to rip all that apart again.

And valve adjustments are no simple task, you have to really know the feel of the feeler gauges used to adjust the clearance. If you get it wrong, the best case is it's too loose and you hear it, and the worst case is you get it too tight, don't hear it, and end up burning a valve.
I saw a video online with a V8 where they just ran the engine with the covers off rather than re assembling it. I don't think I want to spend $1000 to get both cars checked, I already wasted $200 on a simple gasket.
 

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I saw a video online with a V8 where they just ran the engine with the covers off rather than re assembling it. I don't think I want to spend $1000 to get both cars checked, I already wasted $200 on a simple gasket.
Not really reasonable or possible with this engine. Know how to adjust it right or don't do it.

At this point, I'd actually say you'd be better off not adjusting the valves at all than attempting to do it with no experience on this engine.
 

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I saw a video online with a V8 where they just ran the engine with the covers off rather than re assembling it. I don't think I want to spend $1000 to get both cars checked, I already wasted $200 on a simple gasket.
This is a way to adjust valves on an OHV V8 with hydraulic lifters. Engine at operating temp, run it with valve cover removed, loosen lifter until it starts to clatter audibly, tighten one-quarter turn, lock it down, do this 15 more times.

CANNOT do this on any OHC engine with direct rocker arm-to-valve stem actuation. Need a cold engine. From my experiences in adjusting the J35 V6 a few times, it's a good idea to check valve clearances on a J35 V6 with a timing belt change (mainly because you're already "under the hood")

It's just me, but if I had 150,000 miles on a J35 V6 with no valve adjustment in its service history, I'd check them, and adjust if needed.

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From my experiences in adjusting the J35 V6 a few times, it's a good idea to check valve clearances on a J35 V6 with a timing belt change (mainly because you're already "under the hood")
While true, I imagine most people aren't doing this since the timing belt service is already costly and there's no shared labor with the valve cover removal. I know I didn't with my Ody.
 
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I adjusted the valves on my K24 (09 Accord LX-P) with no prior experience, it's not that hard to do if you watch this video from Eric The Car Guy.


You'll need a 3/8 ratchet with two 10mm sockets, the short and the long versions. (Need the shorter one for the 2 bolts on the right side of the valve cover)

A 6" extension (To get your 10mm and spark plug sockets down in further)

A spark plug socket (To remove spark plugs)

A pair of pliers (To loosen hose clamps)

A 1/2" ratchet with a 12" extension and 19mm socket (To turn the crank bolt to rotate the engine)

A flat head screwdriver (To loosen/tighten the adjustment screws)

A set of feeler gauges ("Tappet" gauge set from O'Reilly's. .008 gauge for intake valves and .010 gauge for exhaust valves)

Optional: New valve cover gasket/tube of Honda Bond

Watch Eric's video and let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I adjusted the valves on my K24 (09 Accord LX-P) with no prior experience, it's not that hard to do if you watch this video from Eric The Car Guy.


You'll need a 3/8 ratchet with two 10mm sockets, the short and the long versions. (Need the shorter one for the 2 bolts on the right side of the valve cover)

A 6" extension (To get your 10mm and spark plug sockets down in further)

A spark plug socket (To remove spark plugs)

A pair of pliers (To loosen hose clamps)

A 1/2" ratchet with a 12" extension and 19mm socket (To turn the crank bolt to rotate the engine)

A flat head screwdriver (To loosen/tighten the adjustment screws)

A set of feeler gauges ("Tappet" gauge set from O'Reilly's. .008 gauge for intake valves and .010 gauge for exhaust valves)

Optional: New valve cover gasket/tube of Honda Bond

Watch Eric's video and let me know if you have any questions.
The K24 is completely different and is completely unrelated to my J35. You don't need to take off the intake and other stuff on a K24.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oops, you're absolutely right. For some reason thought you had a 4 cylinder and a V6. I guess I got your post confused with someone else's.

My bad.
It would be nice if it was as simple as the K24.
 
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ETCG himself is the one who says be careful if you have no experience doing it.
 

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Yes indeed, he does say that.

And he's right, you should be careful. But he posted a video demonstrating how to do it correctly, and I'm pretty sure the video is meant to walk you through it, if you're so inclined.
 

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IMO it's less of a deal on the K24. He really hits it home on the J series video because of how difficult it would be to tear everything back apart and redo it if you get it wrong. On the K24 you just zip off a few bolts and you have the valve cover out to redo it.
 
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IMO it's less of a deal on the K24. He really hits it home on the J series video because of how difficult it would be to tear everything back apart and redo it if you get it wrong. On the K24 you just zip off a few bolts and you have the valve cover out to redo it.
Yeah I agree, the J35 is probably a lot more involved, I've never worked on one before, but hopefully whoever attempts it just wants to make sure they do it right the first time.
 

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I've done this on F and K series four cylinders ... not too difficult.

Any J series V6 (I've done a few) ... much, much higher level of difficulty. Really, there's no comparison.

OF
 
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