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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is what the installer did. This does not seem right to me. What should I use to do this right and have it sit flush? Thanks much!



Can I just cut a notch in the speaker ring to allow the bolt through, or do I need a fabricated gasket?
 

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You can use foam gasket to make up the difference or use a tapered machine screw. That will sit flush in the spacer. I had the same problem with my door speakers. I just used some foam gasket material
 

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Wow, a professional installer did this? That's poor work. The fact that the speaker is not flush with the bracket is not only aesthetically bad, but also acoustically poor. You will get some midbass loss.

The least he could have done was modify the actual speaker mounting ring, cut a notch like suggested, to accomodate the OEM bolt. Better yet, he should have made custom MDF brackets, then mount to the deck without using that OEM bolt. Yikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow, a professional installer did this? That's poor work. The fact that the speaker is not flush with the bracket is not only aesthetically bad, but also acoustically poor. You will get some midbass loss.

The least he could have done was modify the actual speaker mounting ring, cut a notch like suggested, to accomodate the OEM bolt. Better yet, he should have made custom MDF brackets, then mount to the deck without using that OEM bolt. Yikes.
You should see the rest of the horrible install!

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=168082
 

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The wood screws are used because of their acoustic properties. They produce a more natural sound by utilizing the course threads, or they were just cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The wood screws are used because of their acoustic properties. They produce a more natural sound by utilizing the course threads, or they were just cheap.
Hahahahaha. This is the "rice boy" equivalent for car audio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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I just read it......wow
 
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