Those countersunk head screws absolutely center the rotors. It’s not for debate...that’s what countersunk screws do. It’s the same methodology used to center your wheels with lug nuts, the countersink forces center positioning.The centering of the rotor thing is not true. Proper rotors are hub-centric, making that issue moot. I could fathom the rotors needing to be secured during assembly, and have my own suspicions this could be true (and equality as many thinking it is unnecessary), the fact remains that once the car is assembled, the screws are no longer needed. When servicing the brakes it is an entirely different circumstance than building the car on an assembly line.
Original screw is a flat Philips head M6, 14mm long.Those countersunk head screws absolutely center the rotors. It’s not for debate...that’s what countersunk screws do. It’s the same methodology used to center your wheels with lug nuts, the countersink forces center positioning.
The hub and lugs do not center perfectly. (close, but not precise) There is clearance over the hub and lugs which leads to the rotor being slightly off center when assembled. And the lug nuts center the wheel, and only the wheel.
It's only to hold the rotors in place while the calipers and brackets are to be assembled onto it.So you challenge the engineer who designed the brake system? Unless proven differently, the screws are there for a reason and they must be kept there...
How many seconds does it to put the screws in compared to wasting few seconds to get rotors corrected?So it comes down to keeping the rotor aligned while the workers or robots just slap the wheels on quickly to keep the line moving and not have to screw around or waste a few seconds to get it corrected.
Quite a bit less, if you have actually worked on replacing brake rotors on a car, then you would appreciate how the rotors can easily fall off the hub partially, this gets to be a pain when you are trying to bolt up the caliper bracket in a static "shade-tree mechanic" scenario with one hand holding the bracket and the other hand installing the bolts while the rotor has partially popped off, you almost need 3 hands!How many seconds does it to put the screws in compared to wasting few seconds to get rotors corrected?
Nine years later and I want to say thank you. I have a 2016 V6 and I even got the proper JIS screwdrivers, Vessels with the built-in impact. The screws didn't budge even with penetrating fluid in there. Wow. Your way saved me because I was at a loss, so thank you again.Good! I hate it when it doesn't. Maybe my experience is amplified because of the work I do. Even still, if someone doesn't own one, I don't see the point to buying one. That is more the point. I do give impact drivers credit.
Through all the postings we have made in our marketing network, I am really surprised at all the comments this has spawned. (although not on the actual blog site, which I find pretty odd...).
Most people are really supportive and like the write-up. Most of those people have interjected their input as far as how they get the screws off. All that is great! For the record, I am perfectly aware that there are a great many ways that one may remove these screws. I prefer this method because it is the only method I have used in the last 14 years that has not once necessitated getting a drill out. In the hundreds of screws I have removed and the half-a-dozen or so methods I have used, this one has NEVER FAILED ME. For an unprofessional and inexperienced DIYer, that is of utmost importance; reliability of process.
Surprisingly, I have only had one critic saying the method was idiotic, and saying they "would actually be embarrassed for even suggesting this method." My retort was simply that "buying $20 tool to remove screws that really should not exist and will be thrown away is idiotic."
Obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat. But reliability, consistency, predictability, and VALUE...all these are the traits that make a part or a process HT-SPEC!