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How-To Replace Shift Cables K24 5MT

14K views 1 reply 2 participants last post by  midnight witch 
#1 ·
Snapped some pics and thought I'd share how to replace the shifter cables in the 5 speed equipped cars. I imagine the v6-6 speed cars are similar too.

Tools required:

6mm, 10mm, 12mm 3/8" drive sockets, deep wall recommended, 8mm socket optional
3", 6" 3/8 drive extensions and ratchet
Phillips head and assorted flat head screwdrivers
brake clean, thick grease (I used Ceramiglide brake lube)

Optional:

Cordless impact, helps the job go by quickly and breaks loose tighter bolts with ease.

Parts I used:



2x 94201-20350 Pin, Split
1x 54310-SDA-L02 Wire, Chan
1x 90555-SF-1-000 Washer A
1x 90556-SF-1-000 Washer B
1x 90557-SF-1-000 Washer A
1x 90558-SF-1-000 Washer B

My cost, $139.25 after tax


So, to start, you must remove the shift knob and bezel.


And ashtray


Then the entire center console.


Remove the console bracket and the shifter assembly, there are 4 12mm bolts to secure the shifter to the body. The side cable is held on with a cotter pin, while the bottom one is held on with a spring type clip. The lower cable is secured with a clip that you will need to pry up, while the side one is simply turned 90 degrees to remove. After removing the shifter body, if you can reach it, there is a rubber boot where the cables pass through, push it down.


Next, jack up the car and support it properly. I used a second jack stand to support the car in case this one failed for whatever reason, even though it passed the rock test.


Once you're under the car, remove the catalytic converter heat shield, hopefully your bolts are not rusted. If they are, you will be able to do this, but it will be a lot more difficult.


This bracket secures the cables under the car, it is located just in front of the sway bar. Easy to get to with a ratchet and 12mm socket, or with an impact... Much more of a problem with just a box end. Pull the cables thru the hole in the tunnel, and let them hang. Now move to the engine bay.


Remove the airbox and the intake tube. This allows easy access to the bracket and the cables that secure to it. I took this opportunity to clean my K&N filter. The airbox uses 10mm bolts and the air hose has a 6mm clamp screw.


Remove the three 12mm bolts that secure the bracket to the transmission, after you have removed the cotter pins from the cable ends.


Pull the cables carefully through the front of the car, as you will have to get everything out to remove the cables from the bracket. The impact comes in handy here, but it's possible to remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the cables to the bracket by putting the bracket in a vice.


The plastic washers sit below the metal ones. I used a small smear of grease to hold them during assembly.


Push the new cables with the bracket through the engine bay and route it between the firewall and swaybar area. a little pulling and massaging might be needed here, expect to be on top of and under the car a few times at this point.


I used a small amount of Ceramiglide where these studs go through the cable end bushings. Prior, I used some brake clean to remove the residue from the old bushings and get some areas you can't reach with a pressure washer.


Secure the 3 12mm bolts here, the longest one goes on top, if I recall.


Under the car, replace the bolt that secures the cables near the swaybar, then replace the heat shield after pushing the cables into the car and pressing the rubber grommet into place. In case you don't know what to do, it tells you on the grommet. You may install the intake components at this point.


The ends at the shifter were dry, so I used a couple dabs of Ceramiglide in the areas where they mount.


At this point, you reinstall the shifter, console, and shifter bezel and knob. It's a good idea to go over everything and check you've tightened everything to spec, and that there are no extra bolts laying around.

Enjoy the great feel of your new cables. The difference between the 13 year old ones and these is incredible.

I do suggest doing these things while you're in there:

Grease the shifter lever pivot. My original was so dried out that there were plastic shavings on my carpet beneath it. I ended up replacing it a few months ago.
Install 6 speed TSX Aluminum shifter base bushings, they are slightly smaller, but the bolt diameter is the same. These greatly enhance the feel of the shifter itself, feeling more "solid"
 
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#2 ·
just used this guide to replace my shifter cables, a+ to the guide, 2/10 to actually replacing them

issues i had:
  • no combination of sockets and extensions could get that 12mm bolt holding the cable bracket loose. a box end and frustration won out
  • the cotter pins i ordered for the shifter cables are not the right size, despite being the ones marked on the parts diagram... though they’re also a different part number from what you’ve listed here. will reorder and try again, i was able to save enough of mine to get everything back together
  • removing the jesus clip on the cable inside the car was absolute misery, no idea why
 
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