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I read elsewhere that Civic engine is slanted backward more so if we used that part on TSX/Accord it will be very close to or rub something near firewall. but just to illustrate an external wastegate in a tight space.
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #22

I read elsewhere that Civic engine is slanted backward more so if we used that part on TSX/Accord it will be very close to or rub something near firewall. but just to illustrate an external wastegate in a tight space.
I think I remember reading that too. More than likely, you're gonna have to make a custom manifold adapter just like everyone of the TSX/Accord builds.
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #23
Chapter 12 - Charge Pipes

I started by trying to use as much factory parts as possible, which of course did not turn out to be a good idea. The stock air box was a leaky mess, the factory intake flex hose blew out about every 3000-4000 miles. The reason why I tried to keep the factory intake flex hose and the factory air box was because the MAF is mounted on the air box, so I thought this would get me the most accurate reading.

In the "final" setup that I'm currently using, the factory intake flex hose was replaced by a 2.75" to 3.25" Silicone coupler, the MAF now sits on a 3.25" OD MRP MAF housing. Something to note here is that I started by using a Spectre MAF housing. Although it was decently nice in construction, the universal nature of the housing means that adapters has to be used for various MAFs. With the adapters, the MAF sits higher into the mounting hole and prevents the whole MAF from being exposed to the airflow. This resulted in AFR fluctuation so bad that I thought my MAF or O2 sensor was going bad. I ended up spending an extra (unnecessary) $150 for brand new MAF and O2 sensor. The MRP MAF housing was expensive (about $100), but it yield a AFR reading so steady that it is unreal.

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The rest of the charge pipe is comprised of extruded aluminum tubings from Metal Supermarket. All the bends are provided by silicone couplers. I would've gotten the charge pipes welded since the welding cost should only be slightly higher than the cost of using only couplers for bends, but I live two hours away from my welder, and I'd like the ability to make changes until I'm truly satisfied with the build. The risk of using so many couplers is of course the increase chances for leaks. But I'm happy to say that even after 10000 miles and quite a few assembly and disassembly, the system is still leak free.

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The only permanent change that had to be made was the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. The neck of the reservoir interferes with the charge pipe between the turbo and the intercooler. The neck was trimmed down and replaced with a piece of flex hose that now sits behind the power steering fluid reservoir.

The intercooler that I ended up using was a Mishimoto Universal Z Line. The Ecoboost Mustang intercooler was nice, but I just couldn't get it to fit in the space that was available. Yes, those are L brackets from Lowes. They are screwed onto the car through existing holes, and reinforced with a threaded rod to the front bumper. This allows me to potentially fit a larger intercooler in the future if needed. The L brackets will be replaced with aluminum square tubings in the near future for appearance sake and reduce reliance on the front bumper.

Charge pipe line:
Turbo 2" outlet > 2" Al tubing > 2" to 2.5" adapter coupler > 2.5" intercooler > 2.5" Al tubing > 2.5" to 3" adapter coupler > 3" to 3.25" adapter coupler > MRP MAF housing > 3.25" to 2.75" adapter coupler > throttle body.

To be continued ...
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #24
Chapter 13 - Tuning

The tuning was completed remotely by Steve over at Etunez using Ktuner. I won't give too much away here for obvious reasons. The car is tuned based on the ATM calibration since Ktuner did not have speed density available for the AT cars.

Steve did a fantastic job here, and worked WAY above and beyond to get the car right. Another thing is communication, Steve tells me exactly what he did to each new map, and usually reply with a new map within 24 hrs of receiving a datalog. Sometimes in the same afternoon.

A special shout to ktuner as well for helping us in the tuning process on these less ideal AT cars.

The only error codes to persists is P0410 and P2227, both of which was disabled through Ktuner. The defouler apparent doesn't really work on turbo applications, and the MAP out of range is just not something we can fix.

To keep an eye on the car, I got a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 to be mounted in the car. The mount is a custom 3D printed magnetic mount. With two neodymium magnets, the tablet is firmly mounted yet easily removable. In addition to running TunerView most of the times, with a built in GPS, I can also use it for navigation in split screen mode on long road trips.

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To be continued ...
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Chapter 14 - Transmission

Not too much is done with the transmission. I added an external cooler between the AC condenser and the intercooler by tapping the line post the radiator water to water trans-cooler. Did the typical drain and fill. Although, I did stretch the miles driven between drain and fill to about 500miles instead of the 50miles recommended on this forum. It's also not the first time I did the drain and fill on this car, so I figure a slightly longer interval is okay. The transmission behaves just as before the build, it shifts fine/smooth even under boost. We were expected the trans to do weird things, but nope, the trans didn't change it's behavior at all.

Edit: Also changed out the in-line trans filter.

To be continued ...
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Chapter 15 - Numbers

The chapter y'all been waiting for.

In total, the entire build costed me just a bit under $2K.

The car does 0-60 in about 6.8sec
Edit: 6.1sec
10-60 in 5.6sec
10-60 using only 2nd gear takes 5.8sec

(not bad considering the car did 9sec stock, 8sec with the RV6 PCD and Test pipe)

Currently, I'm seeing a 3MPG drop across the board. (about 23-24 city, 27-28 hwy).

I don't have any HP/TQ figures, and probably won't in the future. With the AT, the numbers won't be too accurate, plus, you can't even see the graph below 4K rpm (where you'll be most of the times). Just seems like a waste of money to me.

However, as the tracks starts to slowly open up, I will have a 1/4 mile within the next two to three weeks,

To be continued ...
 

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Sweet man running about V6 0-60 times. Though w/ conservative driving your mpg should be going up not dropping w/ a turbo
 

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The Galaxy Tab just shaved 5-6 years off the age of your car, nice!! I really like the big screen mount along with everything else you did to turbo. Sadly(?) my car has auto AC so I need the HVAC screen back ther a bit. I really liked Chrysler's 2000's turning dial with AUTO notch right next to OFF position as well as temperature dial (similar to blue/red but automatic temp control included). No need for stupid electronics to show me where I set my blower at.

And now that your car is probably considered an Accord Type-S you should make your instrument cluster red :p.

And have you tried launching in 2nd? I think your 0-60 might be faster as long as nothing is slipping. Just asking because I had the impression our 1st was excessively short to give the "fullsize" chassis some usable creep which is what most people expect from an automatic.
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
The Galaxy Tab just shaved 5-6 years off the age of your car, nice!! I really like the big screen mount along with everything else you did to turbo. Sadly(?) my car has auto AC so I need the HVAC screen back ther a bit. I really liked Chrysler's 2000's turning dial with AUTO notch right next to OFF position as well as temperature dial (similar to blue/red but automatic temp control included). No need for stupid electronics to show me where I set my blower at.

And now that your car is probably considered an Accord Type-S you should make your instrument cluster red :p.

And have you tried launching in 2nd? I think your 0-60 might be faster as long as nothing is slipping. Just asking because I had the impression our 1st was excessively short to give the "fullsize" chassis some usable creep which is what most people expect from an automatic.
I would do some minor accents to the cluster, but this Crosstour cluster is actually within 250mi of my actual mileage, so I really don't want to touch it and screw it up.

2nd would eliminate wheel spin, but as you can see from the 10-60 times, the car is still quicker with first gear.
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #31
Chapter 16 - Problems, Driving Impression, and Future

Problems:
As good as this entire build has turned out, it is not without its problems. There has only been two problems. The first is compressor surges. As stated previously, the car is capped at 8psi. The reason behind such decision was that below about 4500rpm, the compressor surges past 8psi. The cause? the turbo is too small for the car. The small size and the low A/R means quick and low rpm spool, but it also means poor flow on the exhaust side. The solution here is to step up to a bigger turbo.
The second issues is also related to the turbo. Once again, the small size and the low A/R means quick and low rpm spool. This causes a driveability issue where if you suddenly put your foot down instead of rolling onto the throttle quickly, the turbo spools so fast the car goes lean and almost dies. The solution is again to step up to a bigger turbo or use a larger A/R housing on the exhaust side to force the turbo to spool slower.

Driving Impressions (10,000miles):
The improved low end torque really improves the drivability of the car. The car gets up to speed a lot faster, pasting and joining traffic is a lot easier without needing to floor the car. I don't know if other I4 owners feels the same way, but the AC on these cars feels extremely laboring on the engine. The turbo really eliminated this issue for me.

Future:
To resolve the two problems stated above, I've decided to step up to a GT3076r with an internally wastegated exhaust housing. The larger A/R and larger turbine all together should prevent these issues from occurring again. Not to mention the ability to make more power.

The TD04L-14T specs:
0.49 A/R
Compressor wheel: 39.5 / 51 mm
Turbine wheel: 41.3 / 47 mm

The GT3076r specs:
0.82 A/R
Compressor wheel: 57 / 76 mm
Turbine wheel: 55 / 60 mm

To be continued ...
 

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3076r .82.... :O that is a big turbine. I just noticed you and I have different camshafts (Z2 vs Z3) but that shouldn't affect the hardware too much and I was thinking 2560 and MAYBE 28(60)RS series. Since you mention "Not to mention the ability to make more power" , do you plan on going lower compression and more boost? I'll just wait and find out. Keep them coming and thank you.
 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #34
3076r .82.... :O that is a big turbine. I just noticed you and I have different camshafts (Z2 vs Z3) but that shouldn't affect the hardware too much and I was thinking 2560 and MAYBE 28(60)RS series. Since you mention "Not to mention the ability to make more power" , do you plan on going lower compression and more boost? I'll just wait and find out. Keep them coming and thank you.
Again, not an expert since it's my first time doing this. But the from what I read, the bigger turbo with more flow can be more efficient at the same pressure. I presume this is because there is less boost drop up top and thus more torque in the higher rpm range. Thus literally more "power". I think I have the only boosted K24Z2 around, I have the benefit of having a lower compression to begin with compared to the Z3 and the Z7. I will probably stick with 8psi just to keep things low stressed and reliable. I don't want to build a motor just yet, also the inability to have non-factory MAP means the AT cars are limited to 14psi anyways.

How did you measure the 0-60? Is it with or without the 1ft rollout allowance?
With an app. I dont know if the app includes a 1ft rollout. So that 0-60 should be taken with a grain of salt. (although it should be very close)

If the weather permits, I'll be making a few 1/4mi passes this Friday. That will be the most accurate number with the Compulink Timing System.
 

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port & polish everything
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Hey dude, when you do your engine inspection, maybe consider a used oil analysis also, if you did not already.

Some key things they can find are high silicon (dust or coolant ingestion, IE headgasket leak), high lead (high bearing wear), among others. I'm sure you are already checking coolant level for any visible loss.

I've used blackstone before, but there are a couple vendors. Last time was on my 2003 FBO K24 a long time ago, but because I had no problems, there were no findings and not very insightful, which is probably a good thing.

 

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Turbocharged
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Discussion Starter #36
Hey dude, when you do your engine inspection, maybe consider a used oil analysis also, if you did not already.

Some key things they can find are high silicon (dust or coolant ingestion, IE headgasket leak), high lead (high bearing wear), among others. I'm sure you are already checking coolant level for any visible loss.

I've used blackstone before, but there are a couple vendors. Last time was on my 2003 FBO K24 a long time ago, but because I had no problems, there were no findings and not very insightful, which is probably a good thing.

Thanks for the reminder. Everything's good from the surface, but an oil analysis should help identify any abnormal/excess wear.
 
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