Joined
·
194 Posts
Some questions about vacuum lines. I see you have a breather filter for the crankcase inlet but were you able to reuse stock PCV valve - to - intake line? And how is your brake booster working?
. .
. .
Hudouc's K24Z2 Turbo Build
41 - 60 of 99 Posts
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
Yes, the PCV valve still runs to the stock location. Ideally, you would run a line from the PCV and the valve cover to a catch can and then to before the turbo to utilize the constant vacuum before the turbo. But... I'm lazy and I'm not under boost all the time. Since I started autocrossing this year, I might update it to do it properly.
The brakes works fine, I'm not on the brakes under boost anyways.
The brakes works fine, I'm not on the brakes under boost anyways.
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
Chapter 18 - Bigger Turbo
Since I chose to go with a semi-weird setup, further customization had to be made. Starting with a custom wastegate actuator bracket since I couldn't find an appropriate one.
![525632]()
![525633]()
I reused the TRITDT actuator as it worked well for me and help me save some cost.
The install is pretty straightforward. The only difference was that I had to add a spacer behind my manifold adapter as the compressor housing was too big to fit behind the adapter correctly.
![525634]()
The downpipe was also modified accordingly to work with the new turbo. I did all the mock up and the welding was done locally in Columbus by Moorespeed Performance. The new downpipe setup was a really tight fit between the axle, the steering rack heatshield and the subframe. So much so that the downpipe had to be placed in position roughly BEFORE the turbo could be installed.
New turbo also saw a change in the air filter placement. The filter is now brought up to right above the transmission. This helped the filter stay clean for longer and much more easily accessible for wash/replacement. The new placement also allows for easy future addition of a constant vacuum source.
![525635]()
Minor changes were made to the coolant line to clean things up a bit.
Also, since the new turbo doesn't have a built-in recirculating BOV, a dedicated BOV was used. I chose the Turbosmart Vee Port Pro for it's compact size and quietness. The new BOV was placed next to the battery, where it's easily serviceable and won't get too dirty. (I for some reason don't have a picture of it)
The choice to stick with an internal wastegate and the compactness of my manifold adapter has it's benefits. The compactness allows me to keep the turbo with it's exhaust side on the passenger side and intake side on the driver side. The few other builds on this platform all had the turbo placement reversed most likely due to fitment issues.
![525636]()
Despite everything, the turbo still sits s**** close to the rear engine mount. I did do some testing and at full flex, the turbo does not make contact with the mount. But just incase, I filled the empty space in the engine mount with rubber cut off from old engine mounts to make a custom semirigid engine mount to reduce any chances of contact.
It is also worth noting that before I installed the new setup, I went through and replaced all the engine mounts with new ones and the rear one is not accessible after turbo install.
I also had to upgrade the injectors to a set of 1000cc EV14 injectors by Deatschwerks as I was already maxing out the duty cycle on the RDX injectors with the old turbo.
To be continued...
Since I chose to go with a semi-weird setup, further customization had to be made. Starting with a custom wastegate actuator bracket since I couldn't find an appropriate one.
I reused the TRITDT actuator as it worked well for me and help me save some cost.
The install is pretty straightforward. The only difference was that I had to add a spacer behind my manifold adapter as the compressor housing was too big to fit behind the adapter correctly.
The downpipe was also modified accordingly to work with the new turbo. I did all the mock up and the welding was done locally in Columbus by Moorespeed Performance. The new downpipe setup was a really tight fit between the axle, the steering rack heatshield and the subframe. So much so that the downpipe had to be placed in position roughly BEFORE the turbo could be installed.
New turbo also saw a change in the air filter placement. The filter is now brought up to right above the transmission. This helped the filter stay clean for longer and much more easily accessible for wash/replacement. The new placement also allows for easy future addition of a constant vacuum source.
Minor changes were made to the coolant line to clean things up a bit.
Also, since the new turbo doesn't have a built-in recirculating BOV, a dedicated BOV was used. I chose the Turbosmart Vee Port Pro for it's compact size and quietness. The new BOV was placed next to the battery, where it's easily serviceable and won't get too dirty. (I for some reason don't have a picture of it)
The choice to stick with an internal wastegate and the compactness of my manifold adapter has it's benefits. The compactness allows me to keep the turbo with it's exhaust side on the passenger side and intake side on the driver side. The few other builds on this platform all had the turbo placement reversed most likely due to fitment issues.
Despite everything, the turbo still sits s**** close to the rear engine mount. I did do some testing and at full flex, the turbo does not make contact with the mount. But just incase, I filled the empty space in the engine mount with rubber cut off from old engine mounts to make a custom semirigid engine mount to reduce any chances of contact.
It is also worth noting that before I installed the new setup, I went through and replaced all the engine mounts with new ones and the rear one is not accessible after turbo install.
I also had to upgrade the injectors to a set of 1000cc EV14 injectors by Deatschwerks as I was already maxing out the duty cycle on the RDX injectors with the old turbo.
To be continued...
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
Chapter 19 - Catback
![525637]()
I modified a 9th gen Civic Si Yonaka exhaust to fit the Accord. I used fixed length wood standoff to do the mockup and the result fitment turned out pretty good. It's not perfect, but not bad for $400 for a full stainless steel exhaust. Again, the welding was done by Moorespeed Performance here in Columbus.
The full 3" catback is a huge improvement over the original 2.25" exhaust. Despite still making only 8psi, the car now holds 8psi all the way up to 7400rpm instead of it dropping to 5.5 to 6psi past 6000 rpm. This means no more torque drop at high rpm. The exhaust sounds great for the most part, but does drone at highway speed. The power gain was definitely worth it. Although, I may make this a summer performance mod since I drive a lot and the exhaust get old after a while.
To be continued...
I modified a 9th gen Civic Si Yonaka exhaust to fit the Accord. I used fixed length wood standoff to do the mockup and the result fitment turned out pretty good. It's not perfect, but not bad for $400 for a full stainless steel exhaust. Again, the welding was done by Moorespeed Performance here in Columbus.
The full 3" catback is a huge improvement over the original 2.25" exhaust. Despite still making only 8psi, the car now holds 8psi all the way up to 7400rpm instead of it dropping to 5.5 to 6psi past 6000 rpm. This means no more torque drop at high rpm. The exhaust sounds great for the most part, but does drone at highway speed. The power gain was definitely worth it. Although, I may make this a summer performance mod since I drive a lot and the exhaust get old after a while.
To be continued...
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
Joined
·
1 Posts
since Honda has come out with a few more turbocharged engines I was looking and wondering if the new rdx turbo assembly bolts up to our engine XD or maybe just the boost bug
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
It probably wouldn't be a direct fit. If you can get your hands on one, maybe try it out and report back your findings.
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
Chapter 20 - With Great Power Comes Great Responsibility
Installed the RL caliper mod.
![530908]()
I went with the Maxima rotors instead of the 350Z rotors since when I mocked it up a few month ago, the 350Z rotor fitment was really not great. The Maxima rotors are a bit smaller, but at least it doesn't rub up against the caliper. It is also worth noting that I'm not the only one that has this issue. I went with the Centric plain rotors with EBC Greenstuff. The EBC Greenstuff was on a huge discount when I bought them, so I decided that I wanted to try them out. Plus, my current Wilwood Promatrix pads are really dusty, and I'm tired of having to clean the wheels more often than the car itself.
![530909]()
My caliper also came with the original RL hardline too, so I replaced the OEM lines with the included RL brake lines. Everything lined up perfectly. The brake line bracket for the knuckle needed the mounting hole to be bored out since the Accord uses a bigger bolt than the RL. This will help me avoid the whole banjo bolt backing out debacle that is common with this mod. I believe I am the first person to do this.
Installed the RL caliper mod.
I went with the Maxima rotors instead of the 350Z rotors since when I mocked it up a few month ago, the 350Z rotor fitment was really not great. The Maxima rotors are a bit smaller, but at least it doesn't rub up against the caliper. It is also worth noting that I'm not the only one that has this issue. I went with the Centric plain rotors with EBC Greenstuff. The EBC Greenstuff was on a huge discount when I bought them, so I decided that I wanted to try them out. Plus, my current Wilwood Promatrix pads are really dusty, and I'm tired of having to clean the wheels more often than the car itself.
My caliper also came with the original RL hardline too, so I replaced the OEM lines with the included RL brake lines. Everything lined up perfectly. The brake line bracket for the knuckle needed the mounting hole to be bored out since the Accord uses a bigger bolt than the RL. This will help me avoid the whole banjo bolt backing out debacle that is common with this mod. I believe I am the first person to do this.
Good to know. I am determined to get junkyard RL calipers (because I’m too cheap for even remaned ones), so if I do find any I’ll take the brake lines too.
Joined
·
194 Posts
It would be great to see more aftermarket options available with the custom parts you created (if you decide to commercialize this for 8G Accord / 2G TSX and maybe some civic too).
I see your new turbo is internally wastegated so no need for huge hole on the side for big turbo race cars. Would be perfect for "Stage 1-2" demands, ugh as much as I hate the word "stage" in car modding lol.
Oh and while you're down there, might want to consider sticking some "sound deadener" pieces on the firewall(bulkhead?) to block off the heat from turbo into the cabin. I've personally felt the effect of thermal insulation on the side doors but it will probably apply as well. Just something I would do too once I can start following your footsteps. Some on the market are more resistant to high temperatures iirc.
And for the exhaust, IIRC, again, the EX/EXL versions' are 3" stock. Could you possibly reuse the whole thing for your off-season exhaust?
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
If you saw any of my recent posts in other threads, the LX has a 2" exhaust, and the EX and up has a 2.25" exhaust with a more free flowing exhaust. So you need to modify the inlet of the stock catback either way if you go with a 3" down pipe. The theory I'm trying to test right now is if the EX exhaust would flow enough to achieve the same result as my current 3" catback. It would help to keep the cost down and keep the car a lot more quieter.
I honestly haven't had any issues with heat. If you feel heat could be an issue, I'd recommend wrapping the downpipes instead of adding stuff to the firewall.
Joined
·
194 Posts
2:35 You even got the "crackle" or "popcorn" sound that 2020's factory-made ricers can't do without xD
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
Made my quickest pass yet. 14.08sec at 102.23mph.
I'm 7889 on the right.
![533702]()
Some fine tuning is still needed as the car still goes lean and looses a bit of power for a split second after launch. I did brake torque the car, but was unable to build positive boost.
Those of you with a keen eye can also probably make out some of the car's parameter on my tablet.
Edit: Also worth noting that I ran without the roof rack, but with a nearly full tank of gas, and the 50lbs of random crap/tools that I normally carry in the car.
I'm 7889 on the right.
Some fine tuning is still needed as the car still goes lean and looses a bit of power for a split second after launch. I did brake torque the car, but was unable to build positive boost.
Those of you with a keen eye can also probably make out some of the car's parameter on my tablet.
Edit: Also worth noting that I ran without the roof rack, but with a nearly full tank of gas, and the 50lbs of random crap/tools that I normally carry in the car.
with those tools out the car and a 1/4 tank of gas could have probably broke the 13s!
Joined
·
194 Posts
I was re-reading your post from #1 since a mechanic friend of mine told me putting a turbo will/can increase hwy fuel economy... lol
Noticed that you have drone issues with your exhaust. My imaginary build is planning to lengthen Fujitsubo Legalis R for TSX but back to drone.
Get a shop to attach a "J-pipe" aka Helmholtz resonator with a sliding closed cap and play around with the length to internally cancel the drone out.
It used to be a thing when Chrysler 5.7 hemi that would block off 4 cylinders in cruise mode which created drone in exhaust designed for all 8 cylinders working.
Short Google search will give you a visual idea of waht it is and how you can adjust the length to match the drone frequency.
PS: forgot to mention the company was called Solo exhaust or performance... they still make J-piped catbacks for American V8s
Noticed that you have drone issues with your exhaust. My imaginary build is planning to lengthen Fujitsubo Legalis R for TSX but back to drone.
Get a shop to attach a "J-pipe" aka Helmholtz resonator with a sliding closed cap and play around with the length to internally cancel the drone out.
It used to be a thing when Chrysler 5.7 hemi that would block off 4 cylinders in cruise mode which created drone in exhaust designed for all 8 cylinders working.
Short Google search will give you a visual idea of waht it is and how you can adjust the length to match the drone frequency.
PS: forgot to mention the company was called Solo exhaust or performance... they still make J-piped catbacks for American V8s
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
The J-pipe idea was brought up to me by Moorespeed as well, but it simply came down to that I didn't want to put more money into it anymore especially since I always planned on going back to some sort of stock exhaust anyways. The guys/gals at Moorespeed is currently welding up that EX trim factory exhaust that I got from the junk yard a while back, once I have that the 3" catback may be retired to performance event only based on how well the factory EX exhaust flows.
Joined
·
194 Posts
Ah I see... I will be waiting for your new exhaust and possibly commercialized turbo mount heh
.
.
41 - 60 of 99 Posts
