[Hudouc]

What kind of turbo would you recommend going with for drivability? Say I want to add more oomph between 2k-4k RPM.
I'm considering whether or not a turbo build would be even remotely feasible for me. With such wide gearing, the car could certainly use more torque on the low end of the power band. There really should have been another gear between first and second.
The 2.4L has so much more torque than it ever lets on, at least with the A/T. Left in drive, it never enters the power band without straight up flooring the throttle. It would be nice if the RPM range it liked using so much had a usable amount of torque.

I think something like a GT28 series will serve your purpose well. OR maybe a GT30 series with a very low A/R housing. The extra torque band does help with the wide gear on the AT. Drivability is also subjective. Too much torque down low can be a bad thing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jloc]

Drivability is also subjective. Too much torque down low can be a bad thing.

Right. I wouldn't mind it being twitchy if it was consistent; though, if that twitchiness depended on a turbo, it probably wouldn't be very predictable.
My main problem is when I floor it going uphill within 15 mph of a shift point, instead of downshifting, it just struggles at 3k RPM. Often, by the time I get to the power band, I'm done accelerating.

Just out of curiosity, how many miles were on the car when you started this? I suppose throwing boost at an engine with 207k miles might not be the smartest choice, even if it's only a few PSI...

 

[Hudouc]

Right. I wouldn't mind it being twitchy if it was consistent; though, if that twitchiness depended on a turbo, it probably wouldn't be very predictable.
My main problem is when I floor it going uphill within 15 mph of a shift point, instead of downshifting, it just struggles at 3k RPM. Often, by the time I get to the power band, I'm done accelerating.

Just out of curiosity, how many miles were on the car when you started this? I suppose throwing boost at an engine with 207k miles might not be the smartest choice, even if it's only a few PSI...

150K. At almost 190K now.

Honestly, if they car doesn't want to down shift, I usually just bring it down to D3 or 2.

 

[Pearl coupe]

Read something on here and I would like to save some of you from assuming.

The ebay civic si manifold won’t fit for manuals either. I would know. We only have two options, sidewinder (has been done and posted on our8thgens) Or an adapter plate like Hudouc.

And converting transmissions from auto to manual is not difficult. J35s can do it as well. But they need to engine swap to a J35z3.

P.S. A sidewinder allows the use of an external waste-gate however you must relocate a few electrical components.

 

[jloc]

Honestly, if they car doesn't want to down shift, I usually just bring it down to D3 or 2.

I've started doing that lately. It just strikes me as odd that using the shifter would dramatically improve drivability with an automatic transmission. I understand the transmission not being tuned for hooning, but when the shift logic is absolutely shredding the throttle mapping (which it is), it's rather frustrating. The shift logic appears to have been designed for the V6. Not that I know anything about the V6.

And going from auto to manual is not difficult.

Just for clarification: by "going from auto to manual" you do mean transmission swapping, correct? (It could be interpreted as "sell your auto and buy a manual" with the way you worded it, though I doubt you meant it that way, as you appear to have done a manual swap yourself)

 

[Pearl coupe]

I've started doing that lately. It just strikes me as odd that using the shifter would dramatically improve drivability with an automatic transmission. I understand the transmission not being tuned for hooning, but when the shift logic is absolutely shredding the throttle mapping (which it is), it's rather frustrating. The shift logic appears to have been designed for the V6. Not that I know anything about the V6.

Just for clarification: by "going from auto to manual" you do mean transmission swapping, correct? (It could be interpreted as "sell your auto and buy a manual" with the way you worded it, though I doubt you meant it that way, as you appear to have done a manual swap yourself)

Edited, will include a small detail about the v6.

 

[jloc]

J35s can manual swap. But they need to engine swap to a J35z3.

Why, because of VCM?

 

[Pearl coupe]

Why, because of VCM?

Yes, automatic v6 ECUs contain parameters for vcm.
Manual ecu’s contain parameters for J series SOHC vtec. You could definitely swap only the transmission and just run an automatic ECU, but if your ECU senses vehicle speed and can’t shift, you’ll get limp mode, if you unplug your Speedo and the ELD realizes the car is moving it will trip limp mode. Other than that and mounts the last difference would be axles (maybe) and there’s a special bracket on the subframe. I4s A/T have a specific one, I4 manual cars have no bracket V6 cars have a special one, don’t know if it’s A/T or manual specific though,

Let’s get back to turbo talk, I’m thinking about going 750CC injectors but I wanna get my return setup done in the process.

 

[Hudouc]

40K Mile Update

I hit 190K miles today. It's been 40K miles and almost exactly 2 years since I started this build.

I think I've done just about everything at this point. Autocross, dragstrip, mountain roads, deep snow, 1100+ miles in a single day on multi thousand mile road trip, lumber runs from Lowes, and more.

The car's been pretty reliable, most problems has been sorted out, and the car isn't too quirky for being a true daily driver. I've had other people drive it on different trips and there's no real learning curve unless they wanna go WOT.

A few remaining issues:
Intercooler condensation - I've had two instances of intercooler condensation causing the car to stumble. Both occurred at heavy throttle after a long drive through heavy rain under light load. I did pull the MAF the second time it happened and the MAF was wet with water droplets. I think I just need to either avoid heavy throttle after driving through heavy rain, or just go WOT once in a while to prevent condensation build up in the first place.
Fueling - There's two issues associated with fueling. First, the car running leaner in the cold and richer in the warm. This is simply a limitation of the platform as there is no IAT fueling compensation option in Ktuner. I suppose you can run two different tunes, one for the winter and one for the summer. This brings me to the second issue. I've had some problems with the car maintain fuel pressure at WOT. I did a bandaid fix by simply upping the base pressure to 65psi instead of 55psi. The fix certainly works, but I can't seem to figure out why this problem is happening in the first place. I'm thinking it might be a dirty fuel filter, or it may also just be that I've maxed out the factory returnless fuel system even with the AEM 340 pump.
Cruise control -The only problem with cruise control is that the RES function freaks the car out if you press it at a speed that is significantly lower than the set speed. The car goes on and off throttles continuously as the car is accelerating significantly faster than the computer anticipated. I once tried to accelerate to HWY speed in D3 using cruise control and I think I broke my neck as the car kept on rolling on and off throttle.

At the current state, the car really has no torque down low. Which IMHO is a good thing. It discourages you from driving too fast in a daily situation, reduces wear to motor mounts, tires, and axles in stop and go driving, easier to drive in the snow, and smoother start. At the same time, the car can still muster up enough boost and torque during highway cruising to never need to let TCC go in 5th. I was also told recently that the turbo lag is very noticeable from the outside as well. The last time we went hiking, my friend with a Focus ST told me that he can tell when my turbo really spools as one second he's keeping up and the next I'm pulling away from him without any signs of a gear change.

 

[Hudouc]

I noticed that the valve cover vent was spreading a very very light oil mist to the area directly behind it. I've been wiping everything down every few thousand miles, but I'm getting tired of it, so I made a little containment unit that is meant to catch as much oil as possible.

I will further refine this design to fit better if it actually work as I designed it.

 

[Hudouc]

I got the EX catback back from Moorespeed on Friday, and got it on the car today. The car feels "factory". Quiet, slow throttle response, but also without some weird things that having no back pressure makes the engine do.

The exhaust actually sounds quieter than the LX exhaust, not sure why. Like the LX exhaust, the turbo spools slower, and looses 2-2.5 psi of boost past 5.5K rpm. The car feels slower and lethargic overall. I was really hoping the larger diameter on the EX exhaust was gonna make a difference. But at least I got some of the low end torque back.

Anyways, I'm gonna drive on this for a while to break in the exhaust and see if that'll make any difference. I'm probably gonna just end up swapping between this EX exhaust and the 3" catback for various situations.

 

[Hudouc]

Deleted

 

[outersquare]

The condensation is interesting maybe that's why factory intercoolers are always a little small. I was thinking of eventually getting a bigger intercooler for the 10G but I live in a wet cold weather state so I can't rule out such issues.

 

[Hudouc]

The condensation is interesting maybe that's why factory intercoolers are always a little small. I was thinking of eventually getting a bigger intercooler for the 10G but I live in a wet cold weather state so I can't rule out such issues.

I always thought about doing a controllable intercooler bypass for situations like this. Or even an active grille shutter to prevent the intercooler from cooling.


Two more things I did to the car. In an effort to improve flow on the EX exhaust, I made an internal cutout to try to bypass some of the baffles. As seen below.

What did you do to Your 8th gen today?

Garmin makes one that will work with my current Garmin GPS unit. So that would be good not to have another screen. Except when going to buy a lot of stuff at the grocery, my household members and I usually back into a parking spot. With the pickup and SUV craze nowadays (we have a RAV4 too)...

www.driveaccord.net

The result of the baffle bypass was really marginal at best. So I decided to tackle the droning issuing with the 3" catback to make it more livable. I started by added the legendary Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator. It made a noticeable difference, but since I had to add it to where the rear wheel is in the system, the effectiveness was reduced a fair bit. Next, I stumbled up on repacking motorcycle mufflers, so I decided to try it on the car.

Repacking Muffler

Ugh, I am getting worse at documenting things. I apologized ahead of time. On my 3" catback, there is a fair bit of drone at cruise. This was forewarned to me when Moorespeed welded it together initially after I mocked it up. What I was told was that it felt "too light". Two weeks ago, I added...

www.driveaccord.net

Very noticeable result. Should make the car much more livable in the future.

 

[Hudouc]

A small update since a small issue came up.
With ambient temperature at 100F+, the car has a lean condition under lower rpm and medium boost. More specifically, in 5th gear, at more than 3.5lbs of boost as I try to accelerate with TCC still engaged. I think this is an issue with the fuel being heated too much in the engine bay. The problem goes away immediately when I down shift to D3 for higher RPM and greater fuel flow. The problem also haven't resurfaced as I headed back up north where the temperature is a lot milder.

 

[mtts60]

Try wrapping the fuel rail & supply line (in the engine bay) with pipe insulation, foil-side out. That may keep the lines cool(er).

I thought about doing the same thing to the aluminum a/c line that gets cold, for the same reason.

 

[Hudouc]

I noticed that the valve cover vent was spreading a very very light oil mist to the area directly behind it. I've been wiping everything down every few thousand miles, but I'm getting tired of it, so I made a little containment unit that is meant to catch as much oil as possible.

View attachment 536183 View attachment 536184 View attachment 536185 View attachment 536186

I will further refine this design to fit better if it actually work as I designed it.

This definitely does help to keep the engine bay just a bit cleaner. Interestingly enough, the oil doesn't really pool at the bottom like I thought I would. There is a bit of oil, but not nearly as much as I thought. The majority may have passed back through the filter?

I also installed check valves for the brake booster and the EVAP. It didn't have a problem before, nor do I anticipate any problems as many do run without a check valve at pressures as low as mine. But I just figured I'd try to do things properly.

 

[blueshark]

Hello everyone, I’m new here and this is my first post, Ive got a 2009 ex-l coupe k24z3/5spd that I’ve had for about a year now. Since I’ve bought it I’ve been looking at turbo build threads, and just recently I’ve decided to start piercing the parts together to start a build but have a question when it comes to tuning. I’m asking this question here as it seems this is the most active/recent actual build thread where I can get good information. Every other thread seems to be dead.

Does Ktuner support speed density tuning for manual 8th gen accords now? I can’t find a decisive answer online. I’ve read BIGREDDs forum a couple of times and from what he said it sounded like his speed density based tuning solution was a prototype from Ktuner and not out to the public, but that was a couple of years ago and I can’t find any sources saying if speed density based tuning is available.

If its not, I have a 09 tsx k24z3/6spd ecu that I’ll swap in and have the impbilizer and vin reprogrammed to work in my car, then use hondata as they support map based speed density tuning.

 

[Hudouc]

Hello everyone, I’m new here and this is my first post, Ive got a 2009 ex-l coupe k24z3/5spd that I’ve had for about a year now. Since I’ve bought it I’ve been looking at turbo build threads, and just recently I’ve decided to start piercing the parts together to start a build but have a question when it comes to tuning. I’m asking this question here as it seems this is the most active/recent actual build thread where I can get good information. Every other thread seems to be dead.

Does Ktuner support speed density tuning for manual 8th gen accords now? I can’t find a decisive answer online. I’ve read BIGREDDs forum a couple of times and from what he said it sounded like his speed density based tuning solution was a prototype from Ktuner and not out to the public, but that was a couple of years ago and I can’t find any sources saying if speed density based tuning is available.

If its not, I have a 09 tsx k24z3/6spd ecu that I’ll swap in and have the impbilizer and vin reprogrammed to work in my car, then use hondata as they support map based speed density tuning.

I think @Pearl coupe said that speed density is now supported on the MT cars.