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thenzie

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Ok this is my first write up ever but here goes nothing. I will need to take more pictures to show more steps but I did not like the lens I had brought. I feel this will show what has to be done.

Part Number is the following:

HYB-SCB-01-07

Link: https://www.hybrid-racing.com/collections/drivetrain/products/performance-shifter-cable-bushings-hyb-scb-01-07

You will need:

Flat Head screw driver
Philips screw driver
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
Needle nose Pliers
Plastic Rivet removal tool


Step 1 - Battery Removal


Start by disconnecting the battery terminals, put the cables out of the way.

Remove the battery tie down with a 10mm socket, make sure to hold onto the J hooks as they will fall.

Remove battery and plastic covering under it.

Image

​
Step 2 - Air Box Removal


Remove the 4 clips holding in the air duct.

Image


Unhinge the 2 clips on the air filter cover and remove air filter.

Unclip the Sensor along with the plastic rivet holding the cables to the air box.

Loosen the clamp on the rubber hoses and remove the upper air box

Image


Remove the 2 10 mm screws holding in the bottom air box.

Pull up and remove the air box (2 rubber bushings holding on under the box)

Image



Step 3 - Battery Holder Removal


Remove the 3 12mm and 2 10mm screws holding on battery plate on top.

Remove cables attached by 2 plastic hooks on battery holder

Image


Remove final 12mm screw under the ECM (Right screw in picture)

Image


Remove battery holder


Step 4 - Replacing Bushings


With a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin from the top of the cable bushing.
Remove the top metal shim.


With a flat tip screw driver, pry the metal insert out of the OEM rubber bushing.

Image


Install the Hybrid Racing bushing with the logo side up for the larger bushing and outwards for the smaller bushing

Open the retaining ring and carefully slide into the groove on the bottom of the cable bushing.

Be sure to slide the retaining ring around to ensure it holds the bushing in place.

Install the supplied cotter pin.

Image


Now you can put it all back together and enjoy!

Make sure you plug the sensor back in!!

:grin
 
From what I read on the FB page, either you or someone else mentioned this helps the Reverse shift feel? I've found that to be quite vague. Every time I go into reverse I say to myself that I'll know if it really worked if the camera comes on. =). I'm not sure if it's just me but I also find 1-2-3 shifting to feel a bit odd as well and seams to get better when it warms up. I'm not looking for it to mimic the bolt action I'm use to in my S2K, but if just replacing these two helps inspire a bit more confidence then I think this will be money well spent. Any more info you can share on noise, feeling etc?
 
Images are gone. Host on imgur?
I will fix this later on today.. 3rd time trying to get these pictures up -_-

EDIT - Pictures are back up

From what I read on the FB page, either you or someone else mentioned this helps the Reverse shift feel? I've found that to be quite vague. Every time I go into reverse I say to myself that I'll know if it really worked if the camera comes on. =). I'm not sure if it's just me but I also find 1-2-3 shifting to feel a bit odd as well and seams to get better when it warms up. I'm not looking for it to mimic the bolt action I'm use to in my S2K, but if just replacing these two helps inspire a bit more confidence then I think this will be money well spent. Any more info you can share on noise, feeling etc?
Yes, it was myself and Ian that got the bushings from Hybrid Racing.

I get where you coming from with the camera coming up for the reverse. I've always just felt worried that i am not properly sitting in the reverse gear. Sometimes I wouldn't get that "click" when going in reverse and I did not want to try letting the clutch go slowly to find out and end up scraping a gear. I would find myself having to go 1st and then to reverse like 2-3 attempts before I felt confident. I used to be a lot attendant at Honda and found it was a usual issue. But going into first then reverse helps "unlock" reverse a bit better.

I don't know if that issue is just me... but these bushings make me feel more confident when going into reverse or in any gear. I find now, after the bushings, the shifting is much smother and feels a bit more towards gated shifting. You get rid of the rubbery feeling in your shifting and it feels tight. I would recommend it for more true to feeling shift.

Hope this clears up any questions
 
Help!

I can’t get the stock bushings out. I must be doing something wrong.
 
Thanks for the write up. I was able to follow all your instructions. I finished the install on mine this morning which took me a little over 1 hour. I've taken the car for a drive around town and I definitely like the way it feels.

This mod gives a much more positive engagement feel when shifting. I highly recommend it if that is what you are looking for.

However, I have seen some people on here complaining about gear engagement having too much resistance even with the stock bushings. If that is you, I do not recommend this mod.

I'll add two tips for install:
1. I ended up breaking 3 of the 4 plastic clips holding the air duct in (!!!). They are very brittle so be careful. I bought some replacements.
2. Reinstalling the 12mm bolt under the ECM was a challenge. You will probably want a universal joint socket adapter for this since you will be driving it at an angle. Try to get it started with your hand first.
 
How hard should i have to pull up on the lower airbox? REallly stuck in there.

Answer, Very hard

getting the small bushing back in is a PITA . keeps binding on the post.

Ended up moving the air pipe a bit by removing the 2 bolts and the back clamp. That gave me a bit of clearance to tap it with a small hammer and it popped right in. Re-installed everything (nearly stripped the 2 bolts for the airbox.

Anyway, took it for a spin this morning and shifting is not ferrari level accurate, but still a marked improvement. Things click in much nicer. Definitely worth the 2 hours and $80.
 
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