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Worst car luck of all
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's some history. (I have tried using the search feature, btw.) My car is an 08 6-6. I have two payments remaining on it. So basically, it's time for things to start breaking. Right? I've always performed the regular maintenance at the mileage intervals if not sooner, and I haven't had an issue until now. The car has 127,xxx miles on it.

It had far less before I moved to Maryland last year for work, putting approximately 50k in highway miles for my commute.

I'm on my third battery in those 6 years. So naturally, I just assumed my issue was yet another battery crapping out after only 7 months.

Now, for the issue. Last Friday, I noticed my RPMs dropping below idle and bouncing back up after depressing the clutch pedal to coast to a stop. I experienced no issues other than that. Saturday, the car started fine and drove fine, except for a little whine from being cold. Sunday, after sitting for approximately 24 hours, the battery was dead. The car jumped without issue and seemed to run fine. Approximately 3 hours after that, the battery was dead again. Immediately, I thought alternator, but I had hopes the cheapest route (free battery replacement under warranty at Advance Auto) would fix my issues. The battery test resulted in no issues with the battery.

With my suspicions of an alternator issue somewhat confirmed, I shelled out that money to get it fixed. (All of my tools are at my prior residence, and I really have no means of fixing car issues myself.) This seemed to fix the issue with the charging system, but the RPM issue still remains.

I must admit, however, that I have been a bit of a slacker and haven't had the plugs, timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment service completed yet. Well, I don't have $2,000 just to give to the dealer up here to do it. Whereas I realize any Honda mechanic can do this job, I honestly don't have that kind of money given that I commuted for so long and put 3 tanks a week of gas into my car.

My plan is to get that service completed by the end of January. That's when my car will be paid off, and I can afford to come off of that kind of cash.

Please help. I need this car to last a bit longer. That was the whole point for me buying a Honda.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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4,062 Posts
I would clean the MAF sensor and the TB. Probably won't fix your issue but it's cheap maintenance. Also do the sparkplugs. They're very easy to replace and you could just buy new tools to do it if you don't have access to your old ones (5/8" deep socket, extension set, and a ratchet). Stop at harbor freight somewhere and you can buy the tools for < $20 which is less than a mechanic would charge you in labor.

Also, inspect the grounding cables on your car to make sure they haven't corroded or come loose. I'm not sure about the V6, but the I4 has one going from the tranny case -> body, body->battery, engine mount -> body.
 

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i understand the cash situation, but if you pretty much never maintained it it's not going to run forever.. cleaning maf sensor and tb, replace air filter, plugs , wires are all cheap and easy DIYs and don't require more than some screwdrivers and a few wrenches.
 

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Timing belt/water pump kits are all over eBay for $250, and if you search around you can get it done for about the same money. Do not wait...if it breaks that $500 will seem like the tip on your last restaurant bill.
 

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Worst car luck of all
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Right. So that's the plan. It's just going to have to wait another month or so. Honestly, at this point, I'd just like to know why my car was completely dead again this morning after replacing the alternator yesterday.

Again. Jump started no problem. I'm stuck on battery as the culprit. Grounds and connections are snug. I checked already.
 

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how long are you driving the car for after jumping it? it could take hours to fully recharge the battery so it's either not being driven long enough for the battery to fully recharge (hence why you keep coming out to a dead battery the next morning) or it could be your battery is pretty much shot (not holding any charge)
 

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Honda Nation
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1,679 Posts
Keep in mind the J35 is an interference engine. That means, if the timing belt breaks the valves and pistons will crash into each other and demolish your heads. Now, if you're at 109,000 miles I can't say that your belt is on its last leg because it's just slightly past the recommended mileage to change it. However, I would also be kind of nervous driving it around until I do get it changed. Drive carefully, keep the RPMS low, don't do ANY hard acceleration until you have it changed.

Me personally I'd have it changed tomorrow, put it on my credit card, then pay it off after I pay off the car. Even if you have to pay a little interest...... do you have any idea what it would cost to have your heads remanufactured in this car?????!!!! Not to mention, if the belt breaks while you're on the freeway you will be stranded!

As for the battery, going through 3 batteries in 6 years is severely abnormal for any car, unless you listen to the stereo at full blast with the engine off all time time for hours on end with the headlights on. You have something draining the battery. You need to have your electrical charging system professionally inspected..... not at Autozone. Not just the battery. But you need someone with proper tools and know how check your car's charging system completely.
 

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For the battery issue first is to look at what mods you have done as what you are seeing is not normal. First guess is the HID kit ballasts are hooked up wrong draining the battery.
 

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BringTheIntegraBack
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The title of this post caught my eye. That's what SHE said!!

Okay, now that the childishness is purged, I really feel you need a new battery. Been there on my Integra. Passes test but still not good. Cheap stuff compared to the alternator you already plunged into. And of course, the idle and running will be much better after you invest in the big service. But the battery switch will keep your car from dying every day. Then, as others have said, get your electrical system checked; you should not be killing batteries every two years.
 

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Worst car luck of all
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you all for your responses. I ended up purchasing a new battery to go along with the new alternator. My car killed that battery after approximately 14 hours of non-driving. After a jump, approximately 2.5 hours of driving yesterday, and 10 hours of being off overnight, my battery wasn't dead this morning. I don't get it.

I'm out of ideas. One thing I did notice last night was my fan blower wasn't blowing air as much as it used to. This morning it was normal again. Could this be shorting out and killing my battery? My cabin filter is relatively new (approximately 7k miles) so I don't think that's the issue.

Who am I kidding? It's not like I'm dumb when it comes to cars. I just can't figure these issues out.

So that's it. I've made an appointment to take it somewhere tomorrow. It's not a dealer, but the place specializes in Hondas. That's all they work on. My plan is to have them find out what's causing the battery kill thing, the RPMs thing, and do the timing belt service. Luckily, I get paid tomorrow.

Hondaman in Pasadena, MD does both the timing belt service and spark plug service for $982. They have my money tomorrow. Dealer closest to me wanted $1600.
 

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Worst car luck of all
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So basically... The relay for the air compressor was bad and causing the drain on the battery. I'm willing to bet that was causing the RPM thing too.

I'm excited to get my car back all fixed today. I'm going to celebrate paying my first car off by getting it professionally detailed. :)
 

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Glad you got it worked out. I've been meaning to say

"That's what she said" to your thread title ever since you first posted.
 

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Worst car luck of all
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good stuff. I'm glad I could provide a little humor since I couldn't figure out how not to spend $1098.
 

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nice - very common for the compressor relay to stick causing the compressor to run. guess what happens then? if the a/c is not turned on the fans aren't running, cooling the condenser. then the pressure builds very high and the engine is struggling to stay running, especially at idle. this is what caused your low idle situation.

the blower motor pushing less air than normal is possibly from evaporator freeze up at that time and/or low battery voltage.

finally the compressor clutch being stuck on overnight drained the battery. you put an alternator for nothing, unfortunately. try and return the one in your car if it's not stock because the stock alternator is epic - doesn't fail.

you may experience compressor field coil failure soon - half the time they fail from being burnt out in these situations.

good luck!
 
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